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Sweet!

Any body off pics showing closer up of the mounting setup?

Cheers, Dave.

Nice collection you've got there. I had that same airtronics radio for my RC10.

Love the truck to buggy conversion, nice work! I like seeing other people get creative with their builds like you are with the swaybars and wing... Vs seeing more of the same stuff over and over. A wide track rc10 buggy on primes is for sure not something you see every day

Your car might actually be competitive with newer buggies, I know mine is only fractions of a second slower than my b5m on the same track, which at the club level is maybe 3-4 positions. As you know, driver is always the biggest factor. Problem is the truck arms make it exceed ROAR legal width but who cares if you're not going to be racing it. Looks awesome and I bet it drives really nicely.

I really like the look of that RC10T buggy. Not so sure about the front wing though. I'm curious how much it will affect the handling. The stance of the buggy reminds me of the MRC World Scale. I may have to try something like this... Great job on all of them!

DaveM wrote:Sweet!

Any body off pics showing closer up of the mounting setup?

Cheers, Dave.

Hard to get a good pic for some reason, but this should give you an idea. The mounts are cut down caster/steering blocks for one of Associated's cars. I don't remember which one, I just grabbed what I thought might work.

JasonB wrote:Love the truck to buggy conversion, nice work! I like seeing other people get creative with their builds like you are with the swaybars and wing... Vs seeing more of the same stuff over and over. A wide track rc10 buggy on primes is for sure not something you see every day

Your car might actually be competitive with newer buggies, I know mine is only fractions of a second slower than my b5m on the same track, which at the club level is maybe 3-4 positions. As you know, driver is always the biggest factor. Problem is the truck arms make it exceed ROAR legal width but who cares if you're not going to be racing it. Looks awesome and I bet it drives really nicely.

Yeh., I like experimenting with things, that's the enjoyable part for me. Way back when, the wings made a big difference, especially on tarmac. We would also build bi-level wings for the back, like a two-story-wing. Ahhh, those were the days. May have looked weird, but worked like a champ until you crashed and all that lexan blew apart, haha!

This gray car is indeed too wide for Roar rules, by a couple centimeters. If I ever do decide to race, I'll go the route some other guys are doing with their truck front ends.

And as for the Prime tires, they can be awesome, or bad, and there's no inbetween. If the clay track is even slightly wet, it's like driving on ice. BUT, when it dries out a bit, they make the buggy handle like it's on rails. I really hate the look, as I'm a traditionalist, and like my buggies to resemble a real buggy, even if only slightly, and that includes the tires. But hey, it works on the track, and this one isn't a shelf queen like the other two.

So after not being able to find exact replacements for the front shock tower, and not wanting to buy a bunch of them just so I can find the right height, I'm going to cut my own. This is a cheap fiberglass serving tray from Ikea, that I found at Goodwill for a couple bucks. I should be able to cut at least 3 out of it. This design isn't an exact replica of my current one, but it's real close, and it gets the top holes at the correct height. I'll pull the shock tower off next week and make an exact copy.

Well, I was going to do this tomorrow, but my blue anodized front mounts came in today, so I figured I'd do them together and then go hit the track.

Here's the Ikea serving tray, now with outlines of the actual shock tower I want duplicated. Shouldn't take long to cut them out with the bandsaw and sand them smooth with the bench disk sander. Basically getting four shock towers for $2. We'll see how the fiberglass holds up, it's a tad thicker than the fiberglass one on there now. Yes, it's fiberglass, even though it's black, I painted the back side. I also won't be drilling all the big gaping holes, so it *should* be stronger, or at least have less weak points.






Here are the new a-arm mounts. I'm a sucker for blue anodized stuff, so I had to get these. Plus, the threaded holes for securing the shock tower were stripped anyways. So it was either plastic replacement ones, or cool blue anodized bling, hehe.

I picked up yet another RC car. This time it's a B4, for a price I couldn't pass up. I hated the body that was currently on it, and decided to cut up one of my older style "Viper" bodies. Fits REAL good I think. The wing is actually mounted to the wing posts, but the body is held on the sides with velcro.

Back to the RC10T for a moment. I finally got my sweet rear hinge pin blocks today!










I'll probably start snapping a-arms now...............

Also just got these in from Korea. If the blue ones don't work out, these are more like the stock originals, except in aluminum.

Your b4 looks awesome with the rc10 body. Do those blue Al arm mounts have more toe-in? I couldn't find it online... but I assume the dhawk arm mounts are at the same angles as the Rere 6360 rear arm mounts?

They *appear* to have the same toe-in as the stock mounts. It looks like more in the pic, but I think that's because you can actually see the hinge pin.

Yeh, yeh, I know, it's not much to look at, especially when taken with my potato-cam.........but here is my ALL METAL Stealth with the B4 slipper. I used light grease on the gears, and it's full bearings throughout. It has the stock B4 metal top shaft gear, the RC10GT metal idler, and the Robinson Racing metal diff gear. This thing spins sooooo smooth, smooth like buttah. In my hands, it makes less noise than a regular Stealth tranny. Debating on installing it now, or waiting till my current Stealth takes a dump.....BUT, that could be a while.

Been a while since a posted about any of these cars. Been running the grey RC10T buggy lately. I have a B4, and had recently converted the front end to SC10 hex axles. I was looking at those parts, and comparing sizes to my 1992 RC10T, and as some of you likely already know, things match up perfectly! So I went down to support my LHS and got what I needed. The caster blocks, steerings arms, bearings, and axles. I already yad some extra hex wheel blocks and wheel nuts.

There's only one caveat to this swap, you have to drill out the caster blocks to fit the slightly larger RC10 hinge pin. Otherwise it's a straight bolt on.