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I just thought of something...... Those front wheel adapters are to convert the classic to the world specs. I'm running world style arms on mine. Probably moves them out too far.

Yes, definately too wide with the worlds arms. Going back to the stock ones (well, going to get the re release) worlds spindles.

Those front extended axles come stock on the re-re worlds. I'll measure mine, it looks pretty even to me.

I can't post pics, I have to resize all of mine and my computer is at work. These are the axles that came in the kit:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKYT2&P=ML

According to towers site, these are the worlds re re axles.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2523&P=ML

That's what my theory of them being too wide is based on. I could and probably am wrong.

The worlds axles are the wide gt axles . Those axles were used with the long arms to run current production B4 rims. The B4 rims have a deeper offset than the stock CE rims or B3 rims. Yes they will be to wide if your running the stock CE rims.

ofnaman wrote:According to towers site, these are the worlds re re axles.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2523&P=ML

That's what my theory of them being too wide is based on. I could and probably am wrong.

Those axles are used with the inline blocks. They are used to convert the offset axles on a classic or CE to inline .

Ok, then I guess I'm good. Thank you. I am running b4 wheels on the front.

You guys are right. Looks much better now that I have the rear tires mounted.

I have a question for you guys that race these. Where do you set your ride height? Our track is a very high bite, groomed smooth track with decent size jumps. I set my old b4.1 to where the arms were level to the ground. I'm not sure with this car because the arms are shorter. Thank you.

I normally set mine with drive shafts level and front arms level or just below.

Just finished the b stamp. This will be my box stock class race car. If any of you spot anything I overlooked please let me know. This is my first rodeo with an original rc10. Basically a stock 6 gear champion edition car for a base. They are allowing me to run RPM a arms, and updated size wheels. Only running gear requirement is a Tekin gen 1 17.5. I put a solar d770 low profile servo in it, hobbyking 60 amp sensored esc (I know its a cheapy, but it works great), the battery is a 2600 turnigy 90c rate 2s super shorty, futaba radio. Running a 30 tooth pinion, 78 tooth spur (48 pitch). I also put an extra radio capacitor on it, I really don't think I'll need it, but I had one sitting here. J concepts detonator worlds body and wing. I went back and forth about cutting an antenna hole for an external antenna, but now I'm glad I did it. I'm even considering putting a full length antenna tube on it just for the look.

Suggestion: Black front springs, Green rear springs.

I don't think they will allow spring changes in the class I'm running it in, but I'll ask.

On a side note, on its first run in my parking lot I put it into a curb at full speed. Not sure what exactly happened, brake didn't work. Brake worked right before and after, so I don't know what happened. Anyway, bent the front chassis plate badly, bent one support tube, one caster block broke, and broke the battery tray hold down. I don't think the front plate is repairable, and the two spares I have are bent also, but I think I can repair one of them. Probably will pick up a re release front plate. I already have a re release set of tubes here.

The original CE came with green springs front & rear, maybe the worlds came with black/green, would have to research that. Original short arm car came with full set of silver & gold...re-re's come with silver all around.

Good to know. I have a spring kit. Maybe I'll try to sneak them on.... Got it put back together tonight. Can't wait to actually get it on the track. Was planning on testing/tuning Saturday, but looks like they are tearing the track out for a new layout.