RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

From the page,

"We made it in two different gear ratios—I had it in a 1.96 ratio that the guys with the RC10s were using for oval to get more top end out of the cars. And then the original 10T came out with the original 2.25 tranny and that was way too high of a gear ratio for a truck and that’s why I made a 2.65 tranny. That really gave the truck the bottom end it really needed."

Spoke to RPM and they said the gearbox will dye fine... also got some more pieces in the mail:

Nice!

The RPM parts always come out good when dyed.

I find it interesting that the RPM gearbox was made for more top end speed.

Looking forward to more pics!

I did think the A&L parts would be more fluorescent yellow... I'm going to have to reach out to Daryl and ask if he has other colors like he does for the Lethal Weapon transmission...

The originals were florescent. The current batches are less florescent to differentiate them from the collectible originals. He didn't want to ruin the collectibility

GoMachV wrote:The originals were florescent. The current batches are less florescent to differentiate them from the collectible originals. He didn't want to ruin the collectibility

I see! I wonder if they're dyable? I dropped him an email to ask...

Stainless screws just shipped from team KNK.. still waiting on lunsford to respond about hinge pins. I'm kicking myself for not grabbing the Factory Team 1620 kit off of ebay about two weeks ago!?!

I have dyed the A&L pieces before. The problem is that the dye has changed. The current Rit dye that looks from the outside like the dye we always used isn't the same anymore. Look for their "dye more" version. This was found by another person at Walmart. I have yet to try it, but I was less than pleased with my last experience with the regular dye

GoMachV wrote:I have dyed the A&L pieces before. The problem is that the dye has changed. The current Rit dye that looks from the outside like the dye we always used isn't the same anymore. Look for their "dye more" version. This was found by another person at Walmart. I have yet to try it, but I was less than pleased with my last experience with the regular dye

Thanks for the heads up! I assume the "dye more" version is a liquid... I think they had that at the Michael's I went to. I'll have to go back and grab some;)

Yep, i've never had good luck with the liquid dyes, but this new stuff is different

firebird1999us wrote:

GoMachV wrote:The originals were florescent. The current batches are less florescent to differentiate them from the collectible originals. He didn't want to ruin the collectibility

I see! I wonder if they're dyable? I dropped him an email to ask...

Stainless screws just shipped from team KNK.. still waiting on lunsford to respond about hinge pins. I'm kicking myself for not grabbing the Factory Team 1620 kit off of ebay about two weeks ago!?!

I dyed my A&L steering parts black, and they came out great. A different color may be more difficult.

I actually snagged that Factory Team 1620 set from eBay. I was amazed to get it so cheap. I have never seen it before. Sorry, lol.

lavigna wrote:

firebird1999us wrote:

GoMachV wrote:The originals were florescent. The current batches are less florescent to differentiate them from the collectible originals. He didn't want to ruin the collectibility

I see! I wonder if they're dyable? I dropped him an email to ask...

Stainless screws just shipped from team KNK.. still waiting on lunsford to respond about hinge pins. I'm kicking myself for not grabbing the Factory Team 1620 kit off of ebay about two weeks ago!?!

I dyed my A&L steering parts black, and they came out great. A different color may be more difficult.

I actually snagged that Factory Team 1620 set from eBay. I was amazed to get it so cheap. I have never seen it before. Sorry, lol.

DOH!!! Yeah that's the only thing holding up my build... do they show up often because of course now that I'm looking they're non existent. I'm guessing Lunsford is shut down for the holidays because they haven't gotten back to me since maybe Monday or Tuesday. Hopefully they can piece something together and I can get everything in the next two weeks and start actually building something!

Christmas surprise was waiting for me in the mailbox:

Two questions since I've got a little bit of time to think things out before the truck starts coming together:

1- All of the nylon parts are new or like new... Any special consideration or tips for threading screws into them? Sounds silly but since most everything is totally fresh do I need to use like soap or any sort of compound to help everything stay together tight and not back out?

2- Someone suggested to me using like grease on the ball studs/in the ball cups? when I originally built cars as an 10-14 year old I just popped them together...

No, they will self thread and stay tight as long as you don't overtighten and strip them
And no, run the ball joints dry. They won't typically be tight, but if you get a tight one, use pliers to gently crimp the plastic to the metal ball. It will free it up.

GoMachV wrote:No, they will self thread and stay tight as long as you don't overtighten and strip them
And no, run the ball joints dry. They won't typically be tight, but if you get a tight one, use pliers to gently crimp the plastic to the metal ball. It will free it up.

Thanks! I know that came across as a really stupid question and I assure everyone I've got a garage full of tools that I use regularly! ha

I just figured I'd start seeking out any tips or tricks because I've been out of the hobby for so long and the last RC car I assembled was like 23 years ago!