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That's gonna be one tough racecar to beat once you put a proper servo in it - the HS300 is as entry-level as it get and totally unworthy of this car! Which is a shame as flipping the servo was a brilliant idea

Yes, the axles on the TRX-1 are 1/8" (3.16mm) and not M3's... go figure Also, I'd recommend you use longer screws in the front bulkhead. you never know...

Is the front body mount metallic?!?

Awesome car! then again I'm biased

Back ... and ready for the D-Day (the Vintage Race) !

Yes you're right Paul, the servo is an entry-level one and this car deserve a better equipment given all the upgrade made on it ...
i will try to get something better .... but for this WE, i will put ut with that cheap Hitec HS300 !

Thank you for the piece of advise, i did change the 4x12mm screw by some longer ones (4x16mm). That will maintain the front bulkhead better that with the Allow screws

And Yes Manobet made for me an alloy front body mount. It is a little bit thick and i need to trim a little bit so that it does not damage the body.

And these are the pics (i know everyone was waiting for those ones )

I must admit that this TRX1 is pretty cool ... but the Black&Blue version of Lonestar is really impressive !!
(http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=36359)

















I will try to post some photos of the Car performing at the event this week-end ... I'll tell about the overall behavior of the car on the track.

Stay tuned

++
Nat

Very classy. Everything came together well. Did I mention I like the paint?

WHOA

that comes out abso-freaking-lutely KILLER

superb job at making it all come together!

(it's a PITA to fit the body properly on this car, most issues are at the front end, this is why the rear of the body isn't sitting right on the rear shock tower )

Hello guys
So the race was last week-end and the only think i won is the bling-bling price which reward the best body painting job We need to start with something don't we ?... The fact is that i broke 1 front arm in the first turn of the first race

2nd race : The Servo is a nightmare : it is slow and although i have a kimbrough servo saver, it was soft like a chewing gum : so not enough speed and torque ! Lonestar were right, i will change it asap !! for the event i played with the exponential feature of the transmitter to give it a little more speed

The suspension traveling is a beauty to look on the track and i could absorb most of the imperfection of the track (better that all the RC10 engaged : maybe i should not say that on this forum )

3rd race : my motor brushes melt away ... i need to know why ! there were brand new ones .. maybe i overheat the motor ! this is a 12x2 with a 81 teeth spur gear and a 16 teeth pinion : so ratio was 11.4 (due to the fact that Thorp gears is same ratio as a stealth transmission). So i gave up after a few laps ...

4th race : it was my best race. I was quite slow compared to the brushless equipped RC10, but the car was a pleasure to drive .. i didn't try to jump above the double oops so far ... scared to break again something ..


In action :

GPPPP:

Good Preparation Prevents Poor Performance

Congrats on having the balls to race that beauty, and for the prize too! Shame on breaking an original white a-arm (did you boil the plastics?)

That's also why RC10's win most vintage race events. Not only are their nylon almost unbreakable, but everyone knows that re-re-ed parts (cars?) can be sourced too easilt

One day I will make it to David's event, with an RC10 or a TRX-1 myself - as well as the Grasshopper category

yes Paul ! i was missing time for a better preparation ... but i will come back next year with a more prep' car. (at least new servo for sure )
I did boil all the plastic parts ... maybe a unseen crack in the arm ! So i am stil looking for a white pair of #1931 ... black pair can do the job for that runner. If anyone interested to sell me a pair from his own stock, i would appreciate !

that being said, a few more pics from the vintage event :

Gorgeous

you have way too much droop... doesn't help the handling

Yes but the track was very very dammaged... i was scared to scratch the chassis that's the only part of the car that is not present in my spare box

badnat wrote: ↑Tue Jul 04, 2017 2:19 pm Yes but the track was very very dammaged... i was scared to scratch the chassis that's the only part of the car that is not present in my spare box

The only times when droop can possibly "help" not damage the chassis is

1) when landing jumps. From the vids I saw, there were no "proper" jumps (David, si tu nous lis... )
2) if you run some crazy high ground clearance and still want "some" droop. By then the handling is very, very f'ed up, and your chassis will scratch on the sides because it will roll like hell...

Hello Paul,
This is the default droop on that car (as per the manual configuration). I am curious to know if you put limiter IN the shocks to reduce the default droop on your TRX1. Everything that could help me setting upthis car, i would appreciate
Merci
Nat

I hate that cat. Can't see your pics any more sadly enough.
Maybe you can add stabilizers to maintain the droop and prevent some roll.

badnat wrote: ↑Wed Jul 05, 2017 4:35 pm Hello Paul,
This is the default droop on that car (as per the manual configuration). I am curious to know if you put limiter IN the shocks to reduce the default droop on your TRX1. Everything that could help me setting upthis car, i would appreciate
Merci
Nat

I can't recall whether I have limiters in mine, but in any case it doesn't run on a track (the one pack per year it drives at all...), so handling isn't a priority, I have to admit

Although purists will scream at me, do you have a modern rear-motor car you could take a look at and take basic measurements from, and then flex them for the length of the arms etc. so you have a starting point?

Otherwise it's trial and error... droop is useful (1) when landing big jumps and (2) to control mass transfer... so it comes in combination with the rest of your suspension setup and how the car drives around a specific track. But, here, on the pictures, there seems to be too much of it (me thinks!) even though old school thinking requires more droop when you're running on a track with lots of ruts...

Experiment and have fun

(what pistons did you use in the car btw?)

Mr. ED wrote: ↑Wed Jul 05, 2017 5:29 pm I hate that cat. Can't see your pics any more sadly enough.
Maybe you can add stabilizers to maintain the droop and prevent some roll.

Hi Mr.ED ! the cat is gone

badnat wrote: ↑Thu Jul 06, 2017 2:58 pm

Mr. ED wrote: ↑Wed Jul 05, 2017 5:29 pm I hate that cat. Can't see your pics any more sadly enough.
Maybe you can add stabilizers to maintain the droop and prevent some roll.

Hi Mr.ED ! the cat is gone

YAY! One thread down and a couple thousand to go. Thanx for updating the pix.

Todd