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Basher67 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2017 3:23 am Great build so far. I have similar tower hobbies memories. For me, I was 15 and drooling over the original Burns. It's advertised 50 mph out of the box was unbelievable. In my opinion, the Burns series was one of the most iconic 1/8 nitro buggies. Decades later I did end up with an Inferno during my nitro days but I would still love to get my hands on an original Burns for the shelf. Can't wait to see this one complete.

Thanks for the kind words. Nice to hear of someone else with the same memories.

Here are some better photos of the progress so far. Just now starting to look for some electronics.

Futaba Discontinued Servos.
http://www.futabarc.com/servos/discontinued-servos.html
This servo even better than S9302 During it's Heydays S9302 sold for $99 and the S9204 sold for $129.. I would replaced the wiring from the S9204 servo if you're handy with an soldering iron.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Futaba-9204-High-Torque-BB-Servo/122522044711?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
S9201 and S9301 basically the same servo same spec's and price these sold for $69.95
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Futaba-S9201-Analog-Multi-Purpose-6-volt-Heli-Servo/401414858523?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
S9301
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-FUTABA-CORELESS-RACING-GRADE-SERVO-S9301/361827674464?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
Fiber Disc brake for the front another upgrade.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DuraTrax-DTXC2533-Carbon-Fiber-Brake-Disc-Upgrade-Part-Kyosho-Inferno/253182446210?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
I would try and get the S9201 and S9204

Damn! Thanks for all the info and links, USA 1. I haven't had the time to learn up and hunt for the electronics for this build yet. This will help a lot.

I am happy to say that I have a new OS Max EX engine on it's way. I can't wait to see it in person. I have never seen one in the flesh.

.

I finally found a OS Max EX 21 engine. I got it from eBay. I had been watching it for awhile and making offers. I got the feeling the seller was listing for a friend/didn't know much about it. It was listed as used, but there were some details I noticed in the photos that made me think perhaps it was actually a new engine that had been installed on a shelfer, and was a little dusty. I really wanted to find a new engine to go with this build. Unfortunately, when I received the engine, I realized it was not brand new. However, it was run very, very little. I am guessing it was bench broke in, and that is it. It has no marks or scratches, and would easily pass for new now that I cleaned it up.

The blue on the cooling head is a very aqua color. The camera does not capture it well. It is a beautiful engine.

The front shocks are now mounted. The shock bodies that came with the buggy have a poor finish. It is uneven and stained looking. I was able to replace the rears with a brand new set. For the front, I have not been able to acquire a new set yet. I did find 2 new caps. You can see the color difference below, compared with the other caps. Once I do find some new shock bodies, I will swap them out. Once built and on the car, it is pretty hard to notice problem anyway.

The stock exhaust manifold that goes with the Turbo Burns has some aesthetically ugly casting seams on it. I forgot to take a before picture to compare. I filed and smoothed these seams away, and I think it looks nice mated to the EX engine.

Engine came out nice looks like new too me. Have you decided what gearing you are planning to run, the Clutch bell on that motor has a 13 tooth 13t /53t main, which means she will be high RPM screamer, more bottom torque verses top end speed. I find they are easily damaged due to runaway or lack of lubrication piston will cease near the top of the cylinder and cause the Con rod to stretch and I've seen them snap in half also and don't use the needle bearing for the clutch bell use the 2, 10x8 regular bearing I've seen my share of scatter needle bearing pieces. I would run an 18 toothbell, you got to be careful when ordering the right size clutchbell make sure the sidewall is deep (were the shoes will engage). I see you are running the plastic center diff gear, you may want to opt out for the steel in the future.
https://www.towerhobbies.com/products/trakpower/www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKAZ1&P=8
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Racing-CLUTCH-BELL-18-TOOTH-1M-Model-A978-NEW-OLD-STOCK-FREE-SHIPPING/162706328963?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3D1955d9e724624b2fb0331dfef5a445d4%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D322356919671&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042

It is finally a roller. Engine mocked up. Waiting on a engine spacer that fits on the crankshaft, behind the flywheel.

I cut out and installed the 2 side mud guards. It was a little tricky to get them just right. To mount the exhaust, I need to do some more trimming, but I am still trying to decide how I want to do it.

USA1, I previously had chose to keep the plastic spur gear, but later changed my mind. I am looking for one right now. Thanks for the input on the gearing.

I received the body and decals from Marwan. I have an original body and wing, and was able to compare:

- Decals - The decals look really nice, and are pretty crisp. However (at least on my sheet) there are sections where it looks like the printer was low on ink, or something. These sections look faded. I think I just got a bad sheet, and I am sure Marwan will correct.

- Body - It seems clear the mold was taken from the original body. The size and shape are a perfect match. However, the plastic on the body I received does have some bubbles and line indentations. There are areas where the body outline are hard to see, so I referred to the original body to trim. Overall, it is a great match, and with the thicker plastic, will be great for runners.

- Wing - Nice thick plastic. However there are almost no trim lines, and the plastic is a little unclear. If I did not have the original wing to compare to, I would have a hard time figuring out how and where to trim it. It is much thicker than the original wing, so it should hold up much better. Once painted, trimmed and painted, it should look great!

Wow very nice!

Way overpriced..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/KYOSHO-BURNS-TURBO-MAIN-GEAR-53T-STEEL-1500-BSW19-/282700115095?hash=item41d23d6c97:g:8xoAAOSwU1FZ6EsZ
best deal so far..
http://www.mubkayhh.xyz/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=49614

Getting closer. Engine and pipe fitted. Stock wing mounted.

Marwan is sending me a new body and decals. I showed him pictures of the body, and he said it was a bad one. Such a nice guy, and thanks much to him for having such great customer service.

I wanted to white the lettering on the tire sidewalls. I always loved how they looked on the box art. This turned out to be a very difficult job. The lettering is very small, and the raise in the lettering is very shallow. I tried several paint pens, and even one of my tiny detail brushes and white paint. I wasn't having any luck in getting the letters painted cleanly. I eventually found an interesting paint pen with a plastic tip. This allows the tip to retain it's shape, and more easily coat just the top of the letter. It is still very difficult, and so so easy to mess it up. I managed to finish 2 wheels so far, and still have the other 2 to go.

Looking really nice mate. Can you elaborate more on the paint pen you used on the tyre lettering?


Keith

keithrc wrote: ↑Tue Oct 24, 2017 4:40 am Looking really nice mate. Can you elaborate more on the paint pen you used on the tyre lettering?


Keith

Thanks!

Here is the pen I am using. Montana-Markers.com. I cannot show detail of the tip better in pictures, but it is not a felt tip. The tip is plastic, with slits. Inside the plastic tube, there is felt and white ink. The ink is drawn out of the splits when the tip is pressed in. It works very well because the tip does not become damaged or deformed with use. The plastic retains it's shape. Hope this helps.

As I said, it is still very difficult to apply it cleanly and even, due to how small the lettering is, and how shallow the rubber is raised. I have lettered motorcycle tires before, and that is very easy. This is quite different.

Thanks for the link, is yours the 0.7 size? So you buy the pens without ink and buy the ink separately?


Keith

keithrc wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2017 5:07 am Thanks for the link, is yours the 0.7 size? So you buy the pens without ink and buy the ink separately?


Keith

The pen I am using is listed as extra fine. I am not sure of the size. The pen comes with ink. You just need to shake the pen and press in the plastic tip to get it to start flowing. When doing these small lettering, it is crucial not to have too much ink flowing. It is a real balance act.

Ah OK. I've got plenty of old Optima tyres to practice on.


Keith