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The whitening process will very much depend on the concentration used, the amount of sunlight/UV and how bad parts are yellowed.
The transmission case should certainly stay at least overnight if not two full days in peroxide.
Why don't you dip them all in the bath to get a more original color? I would first use pipe cleaners or a small brush with WD40 to really clean all the holes.
You can get all these parts close to new if you invest a bit more time.

Asso_man! wrote: ↑Wed Apr 11, 2018 11:29 am The whitening process will very much depend on the concentration used, the amount of sunlight/UV and how bad parts are yellowed.
The transmission case should certainly stay at least overnight if not two full days in peroxide.
Why don't you dip them all in the bath to get a more original color? I would first use pipe cleaners or a small brush with WD40 to really clean all the holes.
You can get all these parts close to new if you invest a bit more time.

Great advise, thanks. Yeah, maybe I'll give them all a good soak after cleaning them a bit more. I'll have to do some searching on the methods used.

Nice project! I picked up one recently and the chassis is almost perfect. Im sending out shocks and motor plated to be annodized in black.

I've used pipe cleaners soaked with WD40, lighter fluid or lacquer thinner to clean the holes. All of these work great. You probably should do this before the peroxide.
Isn't it fun to clean-up and old RC10 and making it like new? I love doing that.

Letting parts soak in straight simple green also works great before cleaning or get a ultrasonic cleaner.

Good point mike, I always forget about simple green. Hey, that reminds me, does anyone use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean metal shielded bearings? Does it work or is not worth the effort??

Okay, for sure I'm going to be removing a little bit from the nose of the CF chassis... anyone got any tips on milling carbon fiber? Like 2 vs. 4 flute, bit size and speed, etc.

Since its already been frayed, I'd probably keep those flat pieces clamped in place and cut the material flush to those plates. As for flutes, I'd probably use a 4 flute. Plenty of reference material online for cutting carbon fiber. For one small cut, I'd probably just use a hack saw and file/sand it smooth.

Asso_man! wrote: ↑Wed Apr 11, 2018 11:29 am The whitening process will very much depend on the concentration used

That is the main factor indeed... there is a huge difference in whitening "power" between, say, the 2 or 3% ones you can as a disinfectant from your local pharmacy, and the 30% max you get from specialized shops. I just bought some 15% to whiten some parts two weeks ago, as the 30% one is really a mess to work with, the slightest projection or leak and it burns - instantly. I got tired of getting hurt the 15% is a lot less aggressive, and works about as well.

Couple of tips to use it:
- Gloves and glasses, every time - better safe than sorry.
- Containers:
- sealed (to prevent evaporation)
- with enough of an air chamber available above the solution as it creates some gases which build up and will splash you when you open them if too much pressure
- don't put too many parts in each, this way you can shake the contents to allow the UV's to hit different spots every time. When you do that make sure it's sealed, as otherwise your hads will remember the droplets if you don't wear gloves
- use high enough ones so the cap doesn't eat up too much light
- Put the stuff in the sun, on aluminium foil to catch even more UV's
- Don't leave anything metallic in there... it creates some nasty chemical reaction. Even traces of metal will start them up.
- No rpm parts... makes them greenish. Same on 10T rear body posts, don't ask me why.

It works really well... I'm a sucker for the ultra-white look

Thanks for the tips guys. It's funny that the front end of the nose of the chassis is cut vertically so the edge ends up being at a 30-deg angle relative to the material, like a knife edge... no wonder they get frayed and chewed up looking! That edge *should* be perpendicular to the material. I think I'm going to cut or machine it that way, the way AE should have done. Now I'm curious if the TQ chassis were also that way... I'll have to check mine when I get home.

most of the composite chassis were cut with a pin router, so yeah, that edge will be cut on whatever the kickup angle is, the pin router is perpendicular to the flat part of the chassis.

jwscab wrote: ↑Thu Apr 12, 2018 11:08 am most of the composite chassis were cut with a pin router, so yeah, that edge will be cut on whatever the kickup angle is, the pin router is perpendicular to the flat part of the chassis.

Yeah, I understand that... it's still poor practice on a layered composite.

totally....

I forgot to mention i have sanded and cleared a graphite chassis before and it turned out great.

mikea96 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 12, 2018 11:32 pm I forgot to mention i have sanded and cleared a graphite chassis before and it turned out great.

What kind of clear paint did you use? I used rattle can clear on my Hot Trick chassis, just whatever HomeDepot had. Came out pretty well.