RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Nice pile of parts! How about those "green" screws? Those are the same color I got on my last purchase of AE 8-32's and I didn't really care for them all that much.

Those are also 8x32's. I was confused as why they are green, I thought the picture looked gold to me but someone thought green would look better? I may, or may not use them. I prefer the original gold. I will have to dig and see if I have any loose gold colored ones rollin around somewhere. Call me picky.

My late part arrival, the upper front angled suspension mounts, were lucky to show up. The envelope had what looks to be road tar all over it like a tire ran over it and part of shipping label torn off. No wonder the tracking info stopped updating 3 days ago! Parts were NIB and undamaged but will need to soak in the peroxide bath a bit so they will match up to all the others I recently did.

One more item waiting to show up is the vintage Futaba R112-JE receiver. This car will be mostly an old school electronic setup when complete.

Those screws are from the rere kits, and they are quite fragile. They ran the Phillips in so far that it’s into the taper so there is very little Chinese metal remaining. They are known for sometimes breaking on installation

Fastener Express has some quality colored aluminum screws with the correct 100* countersink. They were the supplier for the blue screws that Associated sold. Unfortunately they don’t sell gold.

I second Fastener Express (FE) for 8-32, and other aluminum hardware. Unless they are NOS "gold", I use black (have some red) from FE.

Or just go stainless steel hardware for the sparkle.

Finally had a little spare time to build the front end. I figured I would use the 10 degree mounts. The new cross brace holes had to be opened up slightly in order for it to fit over the screws. The front arms turned out great after the peroxide soak! I did not use the green 8x32 screws after finding some originals from my old 12L fiberglass parts bin. I fear that they may snap off when tightening them up. Thanks for the warning!

Looking really nice! Do you know what steering servo you'll use?

I have an old airtronics sub micro I could put in. I dont have any more servos laying around nor do I want to rob any from my other cars. I did have an older futaba S-132H I was planning to use but it finally gave up the ghost and smoked while testing it out. Any good suggestions for one that is good but won't break the bank? Today, I am a little further with the build. I am at the step installing the steel shims on the chassis for the tweak screws to ride on. It never had any when I got the car.

Breaking the bank is always a problem for me! I don't know what would be a decent servo for you. I put a Futaba 9650 in my 12L3. It was slightly used, never raced. I "stole" it on eBay for an excellent price.

For our flat track racing, we used just standard futaba / airtronics servos. the bashing killed enough of them... some upgraded to metal gearsets in just standard servos. the "good" servos were saved usually for the very best.

Some more progress. Starting to look like car once again. I have a dual BB metal gear airtronics servo that is very quick. I think it was .06 sec response time if I remember correctly. I will shop around later for another servo for my future RC10LS build. I don't know why I have an addiction to pan cars, I just love em! Maybe because of the simplicity and the raw speed that comes from them. The upcoming LS will be a build from my collection of spare parts. Almost enough to build another car! Time for another beer! Happy 4th everyone!

GeneralZod wrote: ↑Wed Jul 04, 2018 4:09 pmI don't know why I have an addiction to pan cars, I just love em!

I feel the same way!

The new (used) car is looking great...

More progress. I can't use the airtronics servo because it is too small. Looks like a standard size one will have to do. I may use a vintage FP-S38 Futaba but will need to open it up and solder a shorter, newer style j connector as this one has the old school pin connector on it. The rear left tire comes very close to the rear bulkhead/bottom plate so I had to add one washer to space it out a bit. The tires have been CA'd a bit so they will be my test mules for the parking lot. The diff is buttery smooth after the rebuild.

Should I use the white front bumper or this black one?

I'd use the black one with the black wheels. if you change the wheels to something else besides black I'd switch it to the white bumper but thats just how I would do it personally...

Agreed, it gives the chassis a more balanced look. My future 10LS build will be mostly black with stainless steel screws. I will try using dye method to turn some white parts to black.