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GoMachV wrote: ↑Mon Jun 04, 2018 12:25 pm Thanks Dan! Man, there’s a lot to learn

Boy, is that an understatement!
Anyway, the car looks great Jeff. I like the larger wheels; kinda looks resto-mod.

Looks great Jeff!
I don't get the car though, looks like a pan car with buggy wheels and tires...?

yep! It was a kit or conversion that Schumacher made for the Bolink Digger 10. This would have competed with Tamiya SRB's and the like.
Check out Thomas' website:
https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pro10-classic.com%2Fpro10werkbankbolinkdigger.html

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GoMachV wrote: ↑Mon Jun 04, 2018 1:07 pm yep! It was a kit or conversion that Schumacher made for the Bolink Digger 10. This would have competed with Tamiya SRB's and the like.
Check out Thomas' website:
https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pro10-classic.com%2Fpro10werkbankbolinkdigger.html

Cool!

tamiyadan wrote: ↑Mon Jun 04, 2018 1:20 pm i have the rare OVAL version of that chassis with the full rear suspension too

I have one new in the box as well. This is a different animal and both are really interesting in their own ways. I want to build a hybrid with the independent rear and a more solid chassis. I have a lot of wants though lol.

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Oooh. Are those actual copies of the Schumacher Digger arms or are they an artist interpretation?

I was kinda looking for a set awhile back when I briefly toyed with the idea of building a Digger with MIP trailing arms and transmission.

They came from Thomas Peter who has at least one legitimate Schumacher Digger (pic attached, car has been modernized for running) with team built aluminum components

Look into PETG, PLA sucks for strength. Nylon is usually too flexible. PETG is supper strong from my testing. Downside is support material seems to be a pain to remove on my printer. Most of my parts require it and so I am not using it right now until I get a new printer. My printer is getting really old now.

Just finished up drawing out replacement diff parts for the Lethal Weapons. I want to get back to using the original style diffs instead of the stealth parts which are now getting hard to find again. While I trust my measurements, I want to see these before I get with a machine shop and have a couple hundred made. I decided to try having shapeways print them in their “smoothest detail plastic” which obviously won’t be able to be ran but should work great for mock up.

I have better prints coming from Shapeways but I got impatient and printed some at home. The print was fair, good enough to be able to mock it up and verify fitment. I’m happy to say I only goofed up one measurement and only by a very slight amount. Woot!

IN

Yeah^^^^what he said^^^
Todd

Hey Dan, any recommendations for learning Fusion? I watched all of Maker Muses's Fusion tutorial videos and that got me to where I was able to make some parts for my Axial Wraith.
It's still not perfect but it's holding up. That was printed at the very limit of my Monoprice Select Mini so I've since added a Creality Ender 3.
I know what you mean about about two different printers needing seemingly WAY different settings to print the same part.




Sean