RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Always nice to get parts! It's a daily eBay search for me, never know what will be newly listed.

So it turns out the Lipo I was going to use is a 3s, 11.1v 2200mah. Does this seem like it would be about right? I'm 90% sure it will fit in the battery tray because the bigger is small! If I need to go smaller I have a 3s 1350mah one too.

A 3S Lipo, in my opinion, is way to much battery power for an RC10. Stick with a nice 2S.

Any particular size I should buy? All the Lipos I have currently are 3s, I was just going to buy a cheapo Lipo to mess around with.

It all depends on what type of battery cup/s you have and their orientation. I only use "shorty 2S Lipos from SMC so will defer to other guys to make a recommendation.

I run these cheapo 2s 4000mah Zippy lipos from Hobbyking in my RC10s. I run 10.5, very conservative gearing, and on my little backyard track, average 30 minutes total run time per charge. I break this into three 10 minute runs to allow the motor and esc to cool (and sip on a cold beverage).

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-4000mah-2s1p-25c-car-lipoly-roar-approved-de-warehouse.html?___store=en_us

I firmly believe that, unless steps are taken to dial back the power, you will break parts if you run 3s and a hot motor in a vintage RC10.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Sun Jun 17, 2018 4:00 pm I run these cheapo 2s 4000mah Zippy lipos from Hobbyking

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-4000mah-2s1p-25c-car-lipoly-roar-approved-de-warehouse.html?___store=en_us

The motor I have for it is just a 13t, Chinese Brushed motor, Maybe I'll go brushless but for now it will stay brushed. I will however go Lipo for sure. I prefer their lighter weight and longer run times compared to my NiMh.

Go figure all the parts show up before the car itself, atleast I wont be waiting!

Heres what was in the baggy with the bits of A&L steering. Can anyone help with identification?

Take the two yellow A&L bits away,

and what you have left is the standard RC10 steering bell-cranks, screws and nuts.

Here's the RC10 Classic manual,

page 4 for the bell-cranks.

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10_Classic/RC10_Classic_Kit/manual_RC10Classic_2013.pdf

Here we are! The first steps to greatness. It finally came in the mail today, I tossed a 2.4rx in it, and a nimh battery just to toy with it before i dismantled it for lord knows how long.

Here she is before. Dirty, but for the most part complete.




And here's the bare chassis with rear assembly- and front suspension. This thing is getting every nut and bolt taken off, and anything broken, or that needs replacement, replaced.

soak that bad boy in some paint thinner and get all that crappy silver paint off. You might be pleasantly surprised with a nice gold chassis under there.

the chassis looks nice and straight with minimal added holes. sometimes these crusty ones turn out to be the nicest.

Soak all of the steel and nylon parts in simple green cleaner at 100% for a few days and they will get super clean. Don't leave aluminum (the washers, transmission parts and green screws) in simple green though, just scrub and rinse right away. it will remove anodizing or put a haze on the aluminum parts.

that also includes the shock bodies, nose brace tubes, and motor plate. use dawn on those and they will get nice and clean. I use an old toothbrush.

I've got her all torn apart except for one thing, I cant get the front shocks off!! How in the world do these things come off? The exploded view helped me none.

Just remove the grub screw on the a-arm and slide off the axle.

Asso_man! wrote: ↑Tue Jun 19, 2018 4:18 pm Just remove the grub screw on the a-arm and slide off the axle.

Wow. Just read your post and looked at the picture. I'm blind. So sorry about that.

I just tried every Allen wrench that looked like it would fit in my box. Not a single one fit. Going to have to run to the store within the next few days.