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This isn't an RC10T body but the principle is the same. Most "vintage" Associated bodies that I've used seem to fit the front of the truck fine and while tight on the rear shock tower fit without modification.

Here is the rear plate I made to accept this Frewer body. I forget what rear tower it is but it would be SC and later. The plate attaches without having to modify anything. The body posts I used are Associated #9821 for the SC10 which you can use the front posts as well if you need more height in the front. I've also used them to mount bodies to the T4.2 which has a wide front tower.


Rear body plate



Attachment points



Stock front posts and tower



Being that the T4 doesn’t have a manly bumper you need to cut the front of the body lower otherwise is doesn’t look quite right. The wheel arches also need to be cut further forward due to the forward swept camber link

Hard to see but here's an RC10T3 body on a T4.2.



Stock rear mounts, the shock humps fit exceptionally well.



These are the SC10 front mounts to raise the body to clear the 4.2 tower, it should fit the standard tower just fine I would think. And again, the front of the body is trimmed lower.

And here's an RC10T2 body on a T4.2. This truck has been raced on dirt quite a bit and still looks pretty good considering.



Here you can see the slightly taller front #9821 posts and funky 4.2 front tower. I know for a fact the T2 body fits the stock/early style front tower.



Front of body cut lower, these were primitive decals I made before they were readily available from MCI....



The ugly side of making bodies fit that don't really fit well. I've since learned that Associated chassis protector sheet makes for the best body rub tape.



My favorite action shot.

I haven't actually tried a 10T body but I'm sure it can be made to work......

RC10th wrote: ↑Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:39 am I haven't actually tried a 10T body but I'm sure it can be made to work......

Omg thank you so much, it’s great news that it doesn’t need much modification depending on the body I go with
I think I’m gonna go with the 10t body, I love the hood scoop, it’s same as t2 body pretty much
But this is going no to be a massively helpful

Thank you

RC10T body fits nicely on T4.1.
I have all the electronics installed, but apparently never get the body painted.

-Niki-

Niki wrote: ↑Tue Jan 08, 2019 2:00 am RC10T body fits nicely on T4.1.
I have all the electronics installed, but apparently never get the body painted.

-Niki-


RC10T41_with_10T_body.jpg

That looks great,thank you. I love the 10t body
Is it just an illusion or did you cut the front wheel wells, if you did what is the reason, thanks again

Front wheel wells are cut further forward because the camber link is so far forward. If you didn't cut them for clearance they would bind and hit the body as the suspension compresses. Mine are all cut too.

Yeah, RC10th said it all...

RC10th wrote: ↑Wed Jan 09, 2019 4:27 am Front wheel wells are cut further forward because the camber link is so far forward. If you didn't cut them for clearance they would bind and hit the body as the suspension compresses. Mine are all cut too.

Makes sense thanks again, you’ve been great