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Thanks bluewormx! It does work a lot better with the shim on the bottom. I'll put a axle shim on the top two

Transmission built, rear suspension installed. Trying out some NOS rear axles AE #6371.

Now there's some black 'n gold goodness right there. Looks great Nomad.
Looking at the rear shocks, I've noticed there's ample clearance between the springs and the shock bodies. I have a set of re-re worlds shocks and the springs rub the threaded part of the body - not good.
I used to run universal axles but they tend to wear out fast so they go in my shelfers now. I've gone back to running dog bones and they seem to hold up very well. I haven't read this anywhere but I think the dog bone pins are meant to be sacrificial (a softer metal than mating axles and drive cups) so they take-on most of the wear and can be easily replaced.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Sat May 11, 2019 10:22 am Now there's some black 'n gold goodness right there. Looks great Nomad.
Looking at the rear shocks, I've noticed there's ample clearance between the springs and the shock bodies. I have a set of re-re worlds shocks and the springs rub the threaded part of the body - not good.
I used to run universal axles but they tend to wear out fast so they go in my shelfers now. I've gone back to running dog bones and they seem to hold up very well. I haven't read this anywhere but I think the dog bone pins are meant to be sacrificial (a softer metal than mating axles and drive cups) so they take-on most of the wear and can be easily replaced.

Hey Doug, I've given thoughts a bought running dog bones in this one, got all the stuff, Do you use the springs with them?

NomadRacer wrote: ↑Sat May 11, 2019 4:47 pm

XLR8 wrote: ↑Sat May 11, 2019 10:22 am Now there's some black 'n gold goodness right there. Looks great Nomad.
Looking at the rear shocks, I've noticed there's ample clearance between the springs and the shock bodies. I have a set of re-re worlds shocks and the springs rub the threaded part of the body - not good.
I used to run universal axles but they tend to wear out fast so they go in my shelfers now. I've gone back to running dog bones and they seem to hold up very well. I haven't read this anywhere but I think the dog bone pins are meant to be sacrificial (a softer metal than mating axles and drive cups) so they take-on most of the wear and can be easily replaced.

Hey Doug, I've given thoughts a bought running dog bones in this one, got all the stuff, Do you use the springs with them?

Yes I do run springs. The springs keep the dogbone running fully seated in the drive cup and help to prevent dirt entering into the diff screw thrust bearing.
I've just finished routine maintenance on my B3 Sport (comes with dogbones and springs) and noticed that, even after countless runs, the diff is still as smooth as when it was last assembled back in 2017. Without the springs, the dogbone can slide partially out of the drive cup and allow dirt into the thrust bearing. I've noticed with my runners that still have CVA's, the thrust bearings will begin to fill with dirt and become notchy after only maybe a dozen runs. Anyway, that's been my experience.

Also, I forgot to mention that I always run the rear arms in the forward position to minimize drive-line wear. This places the dogbone and axles in nearly perfect alignment with the drive cup so, at normal ride height, there's very little deflection at the dogbone and the parts seem to last longer.

I was wondering (after losing one or two) if I could find some replacements for my rear axle roll pins. A search on McMaster.com found these...
It seems I have an over abundance of them now

How did these roll pins fit/work? Like a glove?

sandbar782 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 12, 2019 3:42 pm How did these roll pins fit/work? Like a glove?

They worked perfectly, a true life saver.