RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Biz73 wrote: ↑Sun Jun 21, 2020 2:45 pm The build has been pretty trouble free so far. There are a couple spots where it would be easy to miss a spacer or something but that's more just paying close attention to the illustrations. The one "problem" I have run into is that the manual shows that the steering assembly(step 15) can use bearings, and lists 4 bearings, but there was only a place for 2 of them. There are 2 flanged bearings that can be added in step( 16, but they are listed in that step. I have the 5x8x2.5 bearings so I added the 2, but if there is a spot for the other 2 please point it out to me.

Hmmm, you're right. I didn't notice it but that's what happens when I don't read the instructions.

There are two plastic bushings included on tree UT006 and they fit the right bellcrank (step 15).
There are two flanged bronze bushings that fit the cross bar (step 16).
But the left bellcrank doesn't accommodate bearings as it rides directly on the post.
I wonder if the "Option Parts" callout for 4 bearings in step 15 is a typo.
Anyway, obviously you've gotten it sorted out.

I figured it was a typo, but you never know. I was racking my brain trying to figure out a spot for them because I didn't want to ask on here and have it be something simple that I missed

I got the esc, top plate, and servo fitted last night. I realized yesterday that I don't have a sensor wire for the motor so I ordered a couple to have spares. Now I need to solder wires to my motor so I can get this thing moving.

I will say, having the spur gear held on by an o-ring isn't the most confidence inspiring tech I've seen. I know the gearbox cover keeps it in place, but it just doesn't seem right. Otherwise, this car is f'ing killer

Replace the bearings in the spurgear by flanged ones.That way it won't rub the motorplate nor gearcover

Biz73 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 12:20 pm I figured it was a typo, but you never know. I was racking my brain trying to figure out a spot for them because I didn't want to ask on here and have it be something simple that I missed
...

In other words, you were afraid to ask a dumb question.

I do it all the time - doesn't bother me a bit.

More of a fear of the "face palm" after I realized how easy it was to figure out. I hate it when I miss something totally obvious. I don't mind if everyone else here thinks I'm a total idiot, I hate it when I think I am a total idiot

Here's how it sits right now
20200622_161112 by Justin B, on Flickr
The Tamiya TBLE-02S esc has a large on/off switch that wouldn't stick with the small piece of double sided tape that will fit on the chassis. I am going to have to figure out how to mount it.
20200622_161127 by Justin B, on Flickr
The roll cage was a bit of a pain in the a$$ to assemble and it really sucks mounting/removing the body! There are some quirky designs on this car, but it's from the 80's so I guess that's standard for the time. I can't wait to get it all wrapped up and drive it.

I agree on both counts.
The original's top plate had provisions for mounting the switch but this wasn't carried forward to the new car.
I really haven't found an easy way to remove the body/cage - it's a pain. Fortunately, it isn't required for battery replacement.

Tamiya cars are made for the big switch, other brands are made for the smaller style switch. I've had to rig up mounts for both types of switches depending on car/esc combo. I'll have to see if I can get creative and make it work on this one. If I can get together some money I will try to get a different brand of esc. It will work out one way or another.

I read the body was a pain to get on and off, I just didn't realize how much of a hassle it would be. No big deal, just surprised.

Overall I am very happy with this car and can't wait to run it at my local park.

I came up with a really nice deal to make these red kyosho shocks very user friendly to assemble and no leaking. Be a few days to confirm and i will post pics.

I look forward to seeing what you have come up with. Mine are still leak free, but the car hasn't been run.

Biz73 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 7:49 pm The Tamiya TBLE-02S esc has a large on/off switch that wouldn't stick with the small piece of double sided tape that will fit on the chassis. I am going to have to figure out how to mount it.
20200622_161127 by Justin B, on Flickr
The roll cage was a bit of a pain in the a$$ to assemble and it really sucks mounting/removing the body! There are some quirky designs on this car, but it's from the 80's so I guess that's standard for the time. I can't wait to get it all wrapped up and drive it.

My power switch is smaller, but I mounted it here: With your switch being larger, you could attach it using 2 pieces of servo tape...1 on the bottom of the switch & 1 on the side up against the wing mount.

I agree the body is tough to remove, but as stated above it really isn't necessary to take it off much. That is one advantage of the factory battery placement...I usually charge the battery with it mounted in the car.

Nice! I have to pull the top deck to re-do some of the wire placement so I will look into mounting the switch there. Thanks.

Here is what i did to red shocks, works awsome, no leaks, no air, simple to bleed too. Use a dremel and file round around the threaded aluminum piece where tye teflon seal used to go. Put an oring in the new groove created, finger tighten and enjoy! These are now one of my favorite shocks, i used to hate them.

I really dislike those plastic gaskets so replacing them with a simple o-ring is a great tip!
Makes me wonder why Kyosho didn't do it this way.

Here is my opinion of this re released car after building it. It was my 1st car i raced in 1987 and i am not a fan if this one. The tires are terribly small, nothing like original. Rear shocks work awsome with my mod but do not fit look of original at all, way too tall. HATE shock towers. Rear motor gaurd doesnt look authentic, needs to be way darker. I am going to replace everything listed above with original stuff. Kyosho needs to do more like tamiya with rere kits and stay closer to original.