RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Dadio wrote: ↑Tue Apr 06, 2021 3:11 pm Think I have all the broken bits ordered ...... an under chassis decal sheet

I have a chassis skin on order also, and it is holding up my build the way I am thinking about using it, but it makes me wonder if I am thinking about it correctly as I see you are in the process of mounting multiple components. The debate in my head is do you install all the screws and such, and then put the skin / decal over everything, or do you put the skin on first and poke the screws through as needed? I am thinking I put the skin on first because if / when I need to replace parts, I don't want to dig / cut through the skin to remove screws, and then it will never look right when you button it all up again. So am I off there? Screws first then skin over it all, or skin first and screws through skin? Thanks

I was thinking the same way , I think I'll strip it down again before installing it , I just wanted to make shore it all works before hand really .

For the first time in my life I drove an RC10 , the last parts arrived yesterday and after a 24 hour bath to rehydrate they got fitted today I also modified some 2014 Scorpion front wheels to fit .



I'd used the instructions for the fitment of the servo rod into the servo saver ..... it had the turning circle of an ocean liner Got that sorted out and the diff was slipping like mad ! after two adjustments I finally got to drive I'm not really used to 2wd cars , last drove one over a year ago but I have to say it was very nice , predictable , quite quick and very quiet !
So I guess I'm finally in the club right , a proper RC10TALK member at long last

Dadio wrote: ↑Sat Apr 17, 2021 8:41 am I also modified some 2014 Scorpion front wheels to fit .

I test fitted some 2014 Beetle wheels a while back. The modifications looked pretty simple.

Really the only problem is the distance between the bearings is to large on the Kyosho wheels , I just used an end mill to deepen the wholes on each side , you could drill them just as easy , then used a Dremmel tool lower the height of the seat enough so that when fitted the wheel nut bottoms on the axle before it compresses the bearings .I'll probably paint them white as well , it's hurting me to see black wheels on the front and whte at the rear

Congrats Dadio. Glad you've finally gotten to experience what it's like to drive an RC10.
My first experience seeing an RC10 in action was while turn-marshalling my very first off-road race in about 1986. Convinced by a friend to go RC racing, I showed up that day with my old Sand Scorcher and of course got beat by a lap or more. Anyway, seeing how the RC10 handled through the turns and over the jumps, how the suspension articulated and handled the rougher parts of the track, I could tell right away this car was in an entirely different league. Unlike the Sand Scorcher, it became apparent that the RC10 was designed from the ground up to perform on the track and not necessarily for scale accuracy.
The following Sunday afternoon's race, I arrived with my new RC10 and I've been hooked ever since. I still think about that day in '86 while driving one of my old short arm cars around the backyard track. It's probably the reason I'm still in the hobby today.

It's kind of strange really , I left RC cars at about the time the RC10 and CAT were turning the game on its head probably 86 or maybe early 87 , now I'm in my 50's and I finally have one , still not dialed in and I don't have the gear cover yet so I'm not going to drive it much till it arrives , but even a short drive and you can tell it's different .

CAT isnt bad either....little complicated but just finished dialing a rere in with a pro tranny, 9.5t and JustStock esc for a vintage race against "The Diamond Ones" rere Avante with same electronics....should be fun

Found a 3D print file on Thingiverse for the gear cover so I'll print one while I'm waiting on a proper one .

Next dumb noob question , why do I see a pair of cable ties around the servo saver in so many pictures , is it too soft or do they break ?

Too much play. The zip ties lock it up so make sure you have a decent servo or run a servo saver on it. Some people used orings and that worked well to stiffen it without locking it up

Thanks , I'm running a vintage Futaba servo and I'm just messing about not racing so I'll probably accept the play and run as is for now , if it loosens up I'll do as you say and fit a saver on the servo and lock it up .

When you first received it, I suggested replacing the bellcranks with something else. That is why.

They are also prone to cracking and breaking where the ball studs attach.

I use the Worlds pieces on most of my cars, but I also have Houge, JConcepts, and DS ones as well.

I guess I just replaced the broken bits with stock parts to start with , if those bits break again I can just custom make a new steering set , the chassis is so scratched it's never going to be a show stopper but as it's going to be a runner it's no biggie but I do appreciate the advice , god knows I need help

Chances are, that was the source of your turning radius issue. All the flex was preventing you from getting adequate travel.