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Try to convert to a dual bellcrank steering setup. Without that bumpsteer is impossible to get corrected on both sides.

Mr. ED wrote: ↑Thu Dec 23, 2021 10:28 am Try to convert to a dual bellcrank steering setup. Without that bumpsteer is impossible to get corrected on both sides.

I will definitely look into that. I have never worked with a vehicle with so much bumpster! The tires go from toe-in a few degrees to toe-out a few degrees simply cycling the shocks. I can't imagine you could ever drive it straight on any kind of rough terrain.

Got into the wheel creation for awhile, and I have to say that I love the design that eventually came from just goofing around, but ultimately, I am having major printing issues. The only color filament I have that would work is some "silver" ABS that I have used successfully in the past, but it has been awhile since I have messed with ABS (and ABS settings) and this filament has been sitting for just as long (in a sealed 5 gallon bucket with a passive mini dehumidifier in it). I am close to getting a good initial layer down, but after a few layers, it turns to hot garbage real quick. I have taken some wholesale changes at slicer settings, but nothing is really changing with the prints. I will stick the filament in a real dehydrator overnight and see if it is just a moisture thing. If not, I may need to wait on some new filament.

morrisey0 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 23, 2021 10:41 am

Mr. ED wrote: ↑Thu Dec 23, 2021 10:28 am Try to convert to a dual bellcrank steering setup. Without that bumpsteer is impossible to get corrected on both sides.

I will definitely look into that. I have never worked with a vehicle with so much bumpster! The tires go from toe-in a few degrees to toe-out a few degrees simply cycling the shocks. I can't imagine you could ever drive it straight on any kind of rough terrain.

Also you may want to try putting the link on the bottom at the spindle instead of the top. The more parallel the tie rods are to the lower arm the less bump steer you will have. Even if you do dual cranks you will still want to ensure they are parallel.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Thu Dec 23, 2021 9:58 pm...

Also you may want to try putting the link on the bottom at the spindle instead of the top. The more parallel the tie rods are to the lower arm the less bump steer you will have. Even if you do dual cranks you will still want to ensure they are parallel.

To be able to keep the steering rods parallel to the arms throughout the suspension travel their length should approximately hold the middle between the upper and lower arm length.

With the single out of center belcrank the steering rods are hopelessly inequal. The dual belcrank setup was standard on later models based of the hunter drivetrain: check out the prafa big hammer

GoMachV wrote: ↑Thu Dec 23, 2021 9:58 pm...

Also you may want to try putting the link on the bottom at the spindle instead of the top. The more parallel the tie rods are to the lower arm the less bump steer you will have. Even if you do dual cranks you will still want to ensure they are parallel.

To be able to keep the steering rods parallel to the arms throughout the suspension travel their length should approximately hold the middle between the upper and lower arm length.

With the single out of center belcrank the steering rods are hopelessly inequal. The dual belcrank setup was standard on later models based of the hunter drivetrain: check out the prafa big hammer

Test runs of the wheels starting to come together.

That's looking good.
I really should put some time in mine again but as it will spend most of the time on a shelf it keeps falling lower on the priority list. Right at the top now is its kid brother: this 1/10 hybrid I'm preparing for a race at the end of february.

Mr. ED wrote: ↑Sat Jan 01, 2022 5:43 am That's looking good.
I really should put some time in mine again but as it will spend most of the time on a shelf it keeps falling lower on the priority list. Right at the top now is its kid brother: this 1/10 hybrid I'm preparing for a race at the end of february.
4235E261-4B29-4D08-A54D-AC53B4A1D1BB.jpeg

That car deserves a thread , Zerda cage , Super Trail suspension and a Scorpion gearbox , love it

So, am I the type of guy that paints and decals a rig before finalizing essentials such as steering and battery mounts? Yep, I am that guy!

Remaining:
Steering: New rx/steering box is in printer now that will hopefully be final for final servo set up. For now, the stock steering set up will remain.
Batt mounting: Half of the remaining will be with rx / steering box. Front mounting TBD
Final motor / gearing / testing
Front lower a-arm needs to be replaced as one brass ball stud thread broke off in the arm. I have a replacement arm, but I think I can swap sides on the current arms and re-use them. This involves complete disassembly of the front end.
Shocks: I hate the current / OEM shocks! Finding replacements with similar dimensions is near impossible. I am hoping now I can replace the springs and maybe print new pistons to make them useable.

Maybe try swapping the cage around: I find it looking better that way.

Mr. ED wrote: ↑Tue Jan 04, 2022 1:42 am Maybe try swapping the cage around: I find it looking better that way.

Swapping the cage around puts the center supports right where the rx box is. I wish it was symmetrical so it was an option.

any chance you happen to know where to find parts for these?

Today was a Sad day… finally got this thing running a week ago (after 25 years of sitting) and this stupid ass 75mhz futaba decided to lose contact at less than 100 ft while at full throttle. Grrrr this is probably an expensive fix.
(Sad because I am currently researching a new radio setup (likely a T4PM)
Lucky as hell that I found the axel.
(Any leads for parts on this Old great vigor hunter? Lol)

https://www.facebook.com/groups/406460472751635/posts/5013885402009096

I'll check in the weekend. Remind me if needed

TriAdX wrote: ↑Thu Jan 20, 2022 5:32 pm any chance you happen to know where to find parts for these?

Ralph @ wms rc shop seems to have the front knuckle(s) you need: https://www.wms-rc.com/en/robbe-pantera-front-knuckles-3725-5.html

He is in Germany, so shipping will be a little $$$ and long, but he is a nice guy to deal with and prices are good.