RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

The Quest for a Worlds Edition RC10 is underway

MelvinsArmy wrote:I wouldn't go to a vintage drag race to watch Larry Dixon race.

I wouldn't want to hear Linkin Park on a classic rock station. (Well, I wouldn't want to hear them on any station. )

Putting 24" DUB wheels on any classic from the 1960's should be against the law.

I'll take the Honeymooners over Seinfeld any day.

Anything readily available in the past ten years IS NOT VINTAGE. Period.

I likes my beer COLD and my r/c cars OLD. And that's the only way I likes em dag nabbit! You punks get off my lawn!




I kid, but everything I just said is true.

You punks turn that garbage DOWN!!!

That has to be the best non-tech post I have read on an RC forum ever (and I belong to several).

I'd go so far as to say any wheels over 16" that aren't 'classic-style' shouldn't be installed on any 50's or 60's classic under pain of death. The latest trend of lowering classics, extending the fenderwells out (giving 'eyebrows'), and installing 20"+ modern wheels with super low pro tires is an abomination....

I wanna run my RPS Yokomo SE (that I raced in the '80s) at a vintage event against other Yokes of the same vintage, period-correct Optimas, Hotshots, Schumakers, etc without having to be outclassed by '94-era wheelers. I wanna listen to Led Zeppelin and AC/DC while I pit out of the back of my '74 International Harvester Scout at the event. Pipe dream I guess...

I say run your B2 and B3 in the same class as everybody else. They sucked for the RCHR type of track anyway. And that's NOT saying anything bad about RCHR, either.

Just curious...is the electronics in the car required to be vintage too? This is too far for me, but would be fun....

a Losi Jrx2 5-link being pushed with a 5000mah 7.4v LiPo & a 8.5T Brushless Motor, controlled with a DX3S reporting telemetry information back to the driver does not really make me think of vintage.

I would want to hear at least 1 driver yelling "I just %$#$ dumped! !@#$%$#$$$#"

y2kgtp wrote:I would want to hear at least 1 driver yelling "I just %$#$ dumped! !@#$%$#$$$#"

me too, which is why i want to see this type of class added to the list.................

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=8238

Just make everyone run Duratrax Shark 1500 packs....that should be retro enough for performance

they wont last the 4 min?

They should easily last 5+ minutes with a properly geared stock or 17.5 brushless. Running my slash with a 27T motor for a 6 minute qualifier (plus the before/after laps), I only use around 1300 mah out of my lipo. Racing 4wd mod with my Mamba, I was using about 1600-1700 for 5 minutes.

I think as it's a vintage class, people should have to run nicad stick packs, and 27T stock motor handouts

y2kgtp wrote:I think as it's a vintage class, people should have to run nicad stick packs, and 27T stock motor handouts

That would be cool

I was a proponent of handout motors and batteries (likely the 1900 nicd) before the 1st vnats. In fact for the 2.0 rear wheel cars there could even be handout rear tires since Losi still makes a 2.0 step pin in silver compound.

So 27T brushed, 1900mah, 2.0" tire. Radio gear/speed control/servos should be period correct within reason (or at least in specification ie no 300in/oz servos or late model high end ESCs), timer chargers only...you know, to keep them out of the landfills.

Just my $0.02 and a good way to put some of those S148 and 94102 servos to use/or rest.

I think chargers are not that a big deal....as you don't get much advantage on Nicads:


Here is a eBay photo I found of my first charger I had....(not my auction, I just had the same charger)

My opinion: The more classes you have, the fewer people will be racing each other.

We ran 1200mah packs back in the day because that was the best we could afford for the money. Everybody knows now that the Nicds are throwaway packs, especially for racing's sake. I would hate to have to buy these packs just to run at the vnats, especially when I have already got decent Lipo packs that would fill the bill. Does using Lipo's put the sub c driver's at a disadvantage? Maybe, maybe not. Depends on how well the guy who has the Lipo's finishes in the end...... If the last place guy was the only one running them, nobody would say a word.

I ran strictly brushed motors in both my cars at the 08 race, and I can say I was at a slight disadvantage compared to some of the guys that were running brushless. But that was my descision, and I didn't feel it was worth spending all the extra $ to go BL. And it really wasn't. I went, raced, worked on my cars, met new friends, and told/heard lots of RC stories.
Pretty much exactly what I expected, and had a ball doing it.

I ran the frog in the classic class, and me and "Civil" swapped radios. He was running a Hornet with the stock tires. He had a handful during the race, and I confirmed it. It was miserable fighting that old rubber on the track. He did manage to find some adapters to get some newer treads on the rear. Based on what he told me, and the lap times, that he went faster and had more fun in the process.

If you guys want to run a TRUE vintage class, 1200 batteries, timer chargers, 2.0" tires, old electronics, then don't get mad when you dump early, smoke electronics, and spin out in every corner.

Just my opinion, of course.

Good points bngiles.

That being said, with enough interest, spec vintage is certainly doable. 1500/1900 packs are cheap and readily available as are sort of current tech vintage flavored tires. I bet Horizon or Great Planes would be glad to donate/dump some 27t brushed motors left clogging their shelves, etc.

Maybe a spec class RC10 vs Jrx shootout..?

I think you just need to have a 18-20yr old judge to determine Vintage. If he does not recognize it, you can run it