RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

RC Chick,
Updating to 2.2 wheels is pretty easy, Really the most important thing is having 3/16" rear axles as opposed to the 1/4" axles. If you're running CVD's then you can get just the axle portion of the cvd and change them out. That axle is still easy to get, it came on B2/B3 and GT's which is associated p/n 7380. If you're running dogbones then you need the 3/16 stub axle cup, p/n. 7378. the front you don't need to do anything.

For wheels you can use B2/B3 wheels which are getting a bit harder to find or you can run the duratrax wheels which are available in a few different colors, but don't try to dye them because they are hard plastic, not nylon like the associated wheels you're used to. Just a disclaimer, I haven't tried the duratrax wheels yet, I have two sets NIP so if you want to go that route I can double check for you before you order anything, but several memebers on here run this setup I believe.

front wheel from the electric evader bx:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXT5&P=Z

rear wheel from the nitro evader bx:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEWP3&P=M

Thanks PBR,

I found the link I was looking for last night. I put all the parts on my wish list at tower hobbies so I wouldn't forget what they were. I should have do it before but I thought it was to much money, now that I look at it I see its not that bad. Ive spent that much in wheels and tires for it already. Maybe ill keep a set jellybean rims and two sets of tires and sell the others I have.

scr8p wrote:

MONSTER wrote:

highwayracer wrote: 3. Use the original carrier and bearings, but make a sleeve to fit over the axle to increase its diameter.
Roger

I wanna hear more about this.

there's a reason this was his 3rd option. mainly because it's not the best one.

I agree. If I could avoid this, I would..especially if there are actual parts that can be used to achieve this. I did this years ago when I put losi axles on an RC10...couldn't find a bearing and didn't want to use a losi rear hub.

JK Racing wrote:

highwayracer wrote:1. Find the correct flanged bearing (difficult)

http://www.avidrc.com/shop/?action=item&id=88&prevaction=category&previd=1&prevstart=0

$1 each, reasonable shipping too.

Wow, this internet thing is pretty useful

Ok My chassis is cut so when it gets here it will get all polished up sanded smooth. So what is better if I am going to run it a little. Paint or Powerd I own a bodyshop so I have automotive baseclear. how well does that hold up? will a good paint with clear hold up well enough? for light running if I use a chassis sticker?

is anybody doing any powerd coating on here?

bearrickster wrote:Ok My chassis is cut so when it gets here it will get all polished up sanded smooth. So what is better if I am going to run it a little. Paint or Powerd I own a bodyshop so I have automotive baseclear. how well does that hold up? will a good paint with clear hold up well enough? for light running if I use a chassis sticker?

is anybody doing any powerd coating on here?

I powder coated two of my chasis's. One is a shelf queen and the other isn't quite ready to run. I painted a chasis with autmotive spray can and then gave it to my friend to put the clear coat on(hes a body guy too) That one is also a shelfer. but I will tell you this when I put screws into the hols on the painted one the paint chipped a bit. Maybe poor paint I don't know. No problems on the powder coated ones though.

that happened on my painted Jrx2 chassis also thats why I asked. what does it cost to have a chassis coated?

bearrickster wrote:that happened on my painted Jrx2 chassis also thats why I asked. what does it cost to have a chassis coated?

I paid 50 for one and the last one I did was free cuz he was alreday doing something in the same color for us. I had to choose colors the guy had mixed already so I didn't have to pay extra for paint and mixing so you should ask when you go to powdercoat.

Theirs no power coaters around here I will have to send it out.