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It looks real cool and I applaude any build of this kind.

About the tubes: I'm sure they are a great help for rigidity in the lentgh but Ihink if you want some torsional stiffnes you're going to need some kind of top deck with spacers to the chassis; something like the composite craft design.

Or to make it real cool; drop the top deck to become a middle deck

Mr. ED wrote:you want some torsional stiffnes you're going to need some kind of top deck with spacers to the chassis; something like the composite craft design.

Or to make it real cool; drop the top deck to become a middle deck

I'm with Mr.ED on this one. I have a similar chassis and have been looking for a upper deck for a while. I think I'm just going to buy a sheet of carbon fiber from Fibre-Lyte and cut out a custom upper or mid-level deck. I just think that for weight issues, the tubes provide the best stiffness for the weight.

The tubes have no problem stiffening the chassis up. I may work on something else a little later down the road for better looks sake.. But for now they will be fine. If anything they are over kill.

This is what I had in mind...cutting out a similar design to the composite craft upper deck from a carbon fiber Fibre-Lyte sheet and using Ass. 31095 top deck standoffs for the FT TC4. It might not be the cheapest route, but it would look really sharp. You can also add your own one-off design to the top deck since you get to cut it out yourself.

Well, I made a little progress on the car today. I have been working trying to put a Proline B4 body on the car without, using velcro. What I have came up with is, the use or RC10T rear body mounts mounted to the front of the rear shock tower. And I had to machine a front body post to the height I needed. This setup works fairly well. I was going to use vecro at first, but it seemed to deform the shape of the body.

scr8p wrote:it looks like 70272. that's just for the carriers.

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/assoc/rear.htm

Thanks scr8p, but when I went to order a set hub and bearings and they don't ship to Canada. That's so lame, not like it needs to go over seas or anything, we even have the same language, gees, that's one of my pet peeves.

The body looks like it will work out good with those 10T mounts, good job! So chris, if you just read the above, if you are not going to use both of the losi hubs I'm still interested

vintage AE wrote:

scr8p wrote:it looks like 70272. that's just for the carriers.

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/assoc/rear.htm

Thanks scr8p, but when I went to order a set hub and bearings and they don't ship to Canada. That's so lame, not like it needs to go over seas or anything, we even have the same language, gees, that's one of my pet peeves.

The body looks like it will work out good with those 10T mounts, good job! So chris, if you just read the above, if you are not going to use both of the losi hubs I'm still interested

Vintage AE , you've got a PM

I recieved the Losi hubs yesterday. (Thanks to a01butal for finding them, and DocJ33p for selling them to me) They did fix all of my problems. At full extention, the axles are not touching the arms anymore and at full compression they dont bottom out in the outdrives either. Throughout the full travel, they stay at the same place in the outdrives, and the camber pretty much remains the same also. It is crazy how much suspension travel this thing has.

You may want to change this a little: when the drives go to deep in the cups that's a problem ofcourse, but for handling you'd want the tire to lean in slightly as it travels to full compression.
Without that you'll loose grip in the rrear when cornering.

That looks good...looks like a minor adjustments and you'll have it dialed in. Thanks so much for hooking me up with your spare set . It's just a matter of time before I can get to mine, then I'll post my updates too.

Mr. ED wrote:You may want to change this a little: when the drives go to deep in the cups that's a problem ofcourse, but for handling you'd want the tire to lean in slightly as it travels to full compression.
Without that you'll loose grip in the rrear when cornering.

It changes, just not too much like it did before with the old hubs. I'm not a bench tuner, so tuning will wait till the car is running. I've found out, after about 20 years of racing it's best to test then tune.

Iv tried test fitting a j concepts, and a stock b4 body over cut down chassis and there is not enough space in side pods to go over chassis. Is the Proline body a little longer than the other bodies in the sides or did u have to tweek it a bit to set down the way u have it on chassis in your picture

Soncho Ponza wrote:Iv tried test fitting a j concepts, and a stock b4 body over cut down chassis and there is not enough space in side pods to go over chassis. Is the Proline body a little longer than the other bodies in the sides or did u have to tweek it a bit to set down the way u have it on chassis in your picture

There is a little extra trimming in a few spots (around the nose mainly) but other than that it fits ok. It is stretched over the forward corner of the sides just a little, but if someone didn't know it they would never pick up on it.

may i ask what front a-arms did you use?

shredderboy wrote:may i ask what front a-arms did you use?

Dynotech a-arms http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2701

here are the rear ones http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2700