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I found an ADD IN for making bevel gears in Fusion 360 but its not very flexible , I did draw and print some and they worked but the tooth width was small and I could not adjust it so following several tutorials I drew up another set derived from spur gears , it sounded complicated and I had to watch several tutorials before I fully understood the process and now I have these . They are printing as a set in resin now .

Mini Mustang diff gear test prints . Gear meshes really well , just excuse the condition of the retired outdrive .

Have you had any need to do those little clips that hold number plates to zerda cage? They're supposed to have a short post to melt into holes around the plate.
I've got four which had been badly glued to the plate.
I could resort to cable ties but having something more authentic might be tempting

I know what you mean , it's kind of a crappy idea , I did make whole rear quarter panels that were made in one piece with the clips attached. It would be pretty simple to make original panels like them with clips attached or just the clip/block on its own if you like ?

Dadio wrote: ↑Wed Aug 31, 2022 9:34 am ZERDA FRAME SIDE PANNELS v6.jpg

Another problem with making the above part to be soldered/melted on is that its not the same plastic and might not work well or have the same melting point .

I see. A modicum of super glue? I mean to try that or airfix cement on the pieces which had been stuck on with araldite. I'm cutting some panels out of the same flower pot which made the gearbox cover. It's the same gauge as panels and similar plastic.

If you have any you could try acetone(nail varnish remover) on a piece of the plastic and see if it softens or melts it , if so then ABS would work . Alternatively I could make the rivet part longer and it could be melted into a rivet head , problem then is that the decals go over the joint .

More SG Coyote , this time the front pumpkin , all lines up with an original.

Dadio wrote: ↑Wed Aug 31, 2022 11:09 am If you have any you could try acetone(nail varnish remover) on a piece of the plastic and see if it softens or melts it , if so then ABS would work . Alternatively I could make the rivet part longer and it could be melted into a rivet head , problem then is that the decals go over the joint .

Acetone didn't seem to soften the panel or the clip enought to "weld" and just left a white residue. I wonder if shaping the stud on the clip so that it pops in quite snug would work. I've cut some panels out of PPE flower pot and will try a hot weld or glue gun.

More irritatingly over priced re-selling
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175473161769?hash=item28db03f629:g:OKUAAOSwq9VjYVeF&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4GKJq6Jvogbuvv1O3Rl89VRjLaiBpUuhR0JSCyoY4BihOVSt9%2FCCfA7oXXPJ6hQ4mnfGds8hiqnPxbUMf%2FX106jKvUHdKcfe%2BrgimM1MOO7UFjGLLSOuJMg51iuKANOItw7abQjZnP5UwN9l00PVS%2BAeOetwRpHpO3GVz%2FnL93FgLTo%2BoqfDCXnkxh89fHqiJDkjrHjXmOMZyuYCIsbOwWZ0RAVyXpyPCHfiHeQ4WD41xBQMliyqD6hAuCwN%2FFvQOyN9jgYWgv079uwE9hFzI%2Ble%2FgIVSsh4IhEowIYzm33s%7Ctkp%3ABFBMyLLM3Ilh
And my Shapeways shop price
https://www.shapeways.com/product/569DNJJJZ/yokomo-dogfighter-yz-834b-gear-cluster?optionId=255344831&li=marketplace
I find it hard to believe anybody would spend that much on genuine 834b gears

Interesting. I occasionally buy used parts from that seller.

I know the guys gotta recoup cost of printer etc, but not all on one part!!

The hirobo 12mm hex problem.
Curiosity I bought some cheap tamiya hpi axles. Then some 10x15x4 bearings to fit the cup of the axle. Can't find 5x15x5 to fit the narrow part of the axle but used 6x15x5 zerda with some spacer (rolled plastic for the time being).
Offered up to zerda steering knuckle to compare dimensions.
And if the recess for bearings was deeper and the face of the knuckle built up to accommodate 9mm bearings width..would it work? Wondering about shortening effect on dogbones or what other factors in the way. The bearing recess is 5mm so 4mm needs to be found for the other bearing and I thought 2mm deeper recess an 2 mm added to the face of the knuckle.
Thoughts?

The 11mm widest part of the cup of the tamiya axle fits so snugly into the knuckle it's almost like a bearing and some relief achieved by sanding the knuckle