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clm wrote: ↑Wed Jul 06, 2022 9:47 pm Hey Battletrak, you want to give a try to this? I have not yet modeled the front wheel.. lots of curvy annoyance in these lol

I am currently printing lots of black stuff so don't have time to switch to white. These are still sized more or less for those Jconcepts tires.

This is a test file for impaitient folks
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/test-mini-junior-t-rear-wheel-643501ddbea2603389b3

I am not doing any 3d printing..don’t have the time, space or money for it right now. I would love to see your designs on Shapeways..you should open a store like @Dadio. All of the parts I have bought from Shapeways have been a great quality.

I don't think I can do that, technically all these parts would be owned by Losi and I don't want to risk lawsuits. You could take the stl file to a third party service and get them printed if you want or I could print you copies. I think cults even directly links you to services that will print.

I am trying to make these for posterity and at home repairs

Technically I would love to make money off this.. but it is too risky.

clm wrote: ↑Mon Jul 11, 2022 8:53 pm I don't think I can do that, technically all these parts would be owned by Losi and I don't want to risk lawsuits. You could take the stl file to a third party service and get them printed if you want or I could print you copies. I think cults even directly links you to services that will print.

I am trying to make these for posterity and at home repairs

Technically I would love to make money off this.. but it is too risky.

I used to worry about this too but if you look on Shapeways for say RC10 parts there are tuns , nobody is getting sued , I honestly don't think manufacturers care much about obsolete deleted parts , if it bothers you then make I minor cosmetic change somewhere subtle , it's what full size car pattern parts manufacturers do , otherwise when you wanted brake pads for your Ford then you'd have to buy them from Ford and pay through the nose .
Shapeways for me is more about helping keep cars going , I generally make less than $50 a month , I'm not getting rich ! But the parts are out there for people who need them .

Cults is linked to a service that will print your 3d files for you. It connects to many printshops around the world with options in material and surface finish among others. That and if you really only wanted to use Shapeways there is nothing preventing you from taking the stl over there manually.

However Shapeways does not appear to let you download the stl to print yourself meaning if I just put my items there they are now paywalled and off limit to hobbiests with 3d printers. With one upload to cults I can make the items useable by 3d hobbiests and people who just want someone else to print them.

Do you love the JrxT or Jrx Pro?
Do you want a really floppy replica of one in 1/16 scale?
Now is your chance!

Did this for someone who wanted a model of the chassis to make a graphite chassis from, decided to toss it on cults as a lark...
Floppy Chassis: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/mini-jrxt-jrx-pro-display-chassis

Also found another issue with the molded chassis, had to move the posts back again as I had not accounted for the phatness of the mini rod ends as compared to their svelte 1/10 scale compatriots.. For anyone who has printed the v1.1 chassis I made up some slightly shorter bellcranks that should give clearance for the rod ends.

Added a jig to help drill out the inner ball joint locations on the rear bulkhead. The one I uploaded has all 4 on each side where the test piece only had 3. The Triangle points up and.. well you are likely going to need some epoxy or something on the backside to add some meat if you need to use these locations, just like Losi eventually did full scale

You are also going to need to modify your motor plate for clearance just like Losi did as well, but I will leave this up to you

Drill Jig: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/drill-jig-for-mini-jrx2-rear-bulkhead

OK... First major gripe with this car. Someone had their head inserted into a dark moist space when they designed the transmission. To remove the gears you have to drive out the rollpins in the universals. they have bolted the universal on directly under universal joint and not from the inside where you can access it when you open the transmission. I can see them selling lots of rear axle sets due to broken slider shafts for $22+ a set. Bad form bad form. I am going to try designing a retrofit style case that can take the outdrives straight through without disassembling the Ujoint as having to push that rollpin in and out just to do maintienence on the transmission is stupid...

On the plus side, plenty of grease O.o

I started to draw up a retrofit case but when I measured the widths of the diff it just wasn’t going to look right. I can’t wait to see how you tackle it. Sometimes it just takes another persons take on it.

Yeah even if the retro is not perfect something needs done, trying to drift that rollpin out of the outdrive so I could pull the gears out to properly measure stuff was very annoying when you had to do it with the whole trans case half still attached....

I had to drill mine out. I started to drive them with a drill blank but ended up mashing the end. I really need a tiny pinion puller. Maybe I’ll make something at some point.

This worked for me, I managed to get the pins out in reusable shape... not like I don't still have to spend $22 for just a new slider shaft wheee... lol

This is what I have come up with so far, I am doing some test prints to make sure everything is where it should be. It is not 100% accurate but it allows the outdrives to push through the case without universal joint disassembly. This should allow it to work with whatever they come up with in the future for a ball diff. I am going to do some print tests before releasing it, make sure everything works nicely.

UPDATE: have some prototypes printed it is working out slowly, I need to widen it slightly as the idler shaft dang near pokes completely through the case

Updates updates updates! Wheee!

It has been a while and I have gone through a few iterations... But have something I can put up for testing. As all my designs are it is a WIP and is a pain to print without stringing, your support mojo will be tested with this one!

You need to print 2 bearing spacers and place them between the bearings on each outdrive assembly before inserting them into the case. (I will probably redesign a stock style case for this push in style)
You are going to need to acquire a few screws, 2 m2x8 to attach the motor plate to the right case half, 2 m2x14 to screw the case halves together, and 1 m2x20 for the through hole near the input shaft. You will also want to ream or drill all through holes so the screw will drop cleanly through but not the two blind holes.

Trans Case: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/losi-mini-jrx2-xx-retrofit-style-transmission-case-wip

I have boxes of test parts like that or I used to , now I just bin them before they build up , looking very nice so far , great job .

Does the MIP top shaft and slipper work?