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Interesting... I have some PA12 HT CF and PETG CF at home but did not tried to print yet with them... Time will come, as I have something in mind, but right now I'm focused on something else... I also heard about PC being very interesting for RC, and I must recognize I'm tempted to try... And the PA6 CF as well...

Did you print with the 0.4 mm nozzle?

We use PA6 carbon for our no prep drag racing body mount/caster blocks and they hold up great at 100mph but the print is not the prettiest.

silvertriple wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 10:59 am Interesting... I have some PA12 HT CF and PETG CF at home but did not tried to print yet with them... Time will come, as I have something in mind, but right now I'm focused on something else... I also heard about PC being very interesting for RC, and I must recognize I'm tempted to try... And the PA6 CF as well...

Did you print with the 0.4 mm nozzle?

Yes it's a 0.4 mm nozzle , one important thing is to dry the filament first even new out the sealed package , I dried this roll for 20+ hours before printing and the result is that xcellent
.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 11:13 am We use PA6 carbon for our no prep drag racing body mount/caster blocks and they hold up great at 100mph but the print is not the prettiest.

That finish is very like the Esun CF Nylon I was originally using , it was strong but more flexible and never had a glossy finish , the BambuLab PA6 CF has that nice satin shine and it has that crisp clatter when you drop it , expensive though £37 for half a kilo !

Dadio wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 1:55 pm

silvertriple wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 10:59 am Interesting... I have some PA12 HT CF and PETG CF at home but did not tried to print yet with them... Time will come, as I have something in mind, but right now I'm focused on something else... I also heard about PC being very interesting for RC, and I must recognize I'm tempted to try... And the PA6 CF as well...

Did you print with the 0.4 mm nozzle?

Yes it's a 0.4 mm nozzle , one important thing is to dry the filament first even new out the sealed package , I dried this roll for 20+ hours before printing and the result is that xcellent
.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 11:13 am We use PA6 carbon for our no prep drag racing body mount/caster blocks and they hold up great at 100mph but the print is not the prettiest.

That finish is very like the Esun CF Nylon I was originally using , it was strong but more flexible and never had a glossy finish , the BambuLab PA6 CF has that nice satin shine and it has that crisp clatter when you drop it , expensive though £37 for half a kilo !

I was aware for the drying, with Nylon, it should be almost the standard procedure...

silvertriple wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 2:16 pm

Dadio wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 1:55 pm

silvertriple wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 10:59 am Interesting... I have some PA12 HT CF and PETG CF at home but did not tried to print yet with them... Time will come, as I have something in mind, but right now I'm focused on something else... I also heard about PC being very interesting for RC, and I must recognize I'm tempted to try... And the PA6 CF as well...

Did you print with the 0.4 mm nozzle?

Yes it's a 0.4 mm nozzle , one important thing is to dry the filament first even new out the sealed package , I dried this roll for 20+ hours before printing and the result is that xcellent
.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 11:13 am We use PA6 carbon for our no prep drag racing body mount/caster blocks and they hold up great at 100mph but the print is not the prettiest.

That finish is very like the Esun CF Nylon I was originally using , it was strong but more flexible and never had a glossy finish , the BambuLab PA6 CF has that nice satin shine and it has that crisp clatter when you drop it , expensive though £37 for half a kilo !

I was aware for the drying, with Nylon, it should be almost the standard procedure...

It should be dry out of the packet , bit rubbish that it's not really.

Well, you never know, so by default, it is to be dried...
And even if you store it properly, you will have to dry it again before reprinting...

That said, AMS + silica gel beads in containers allows to space between drying as it keeps the environment controled (my wife use to dry the clothes in my printer room, and AMS silica gel beads needs to be dried every 4 months...)...

All my nylons and PC are in sealed dry boxes with silica packs in and with bowdan tubes to the printer , as you say you get a few months before drying again , I don't really bother with PLA other than having it in large tubs with silica packs but not that well sealed .
The Mini Mustang is coming along .

Drew up the steering components and chassis plate for the Mini Mustang , I combined the chassis plate with the under tray that's usually a lexan part, printed in PA6 CF Nylon for the steering and the plate in PETG CF. The chassis plate once fitted makes the whole thing very rigid. After printing I added cutouts in the under guard sides for battery and steering rod as I'd missed them on this version , easy enough to cut out as you would in the lexan version.

This Mini Mustang is just about done , modified to use Hotshot diff bevel gears , dogbones and axles .
Servo and motor are fitted just need to fit an RX and ESC and it's test drive time, I'm not sure if the suspension arms will hold up in home printed PA6 CF Nylon, where the inner arms meet the suspension pins they are quite skinny , the original material is very tough and flexible , nearest material I could print them in would be Polypropylene and I've never used it , by all accounts Polypropylene only really likes to stick to Polypropylene ....

Took the printed Mini Mustang for a drive today , disappointingly the Hotshot diffs don't like being under tension from the belt , with enough belt tension not to slip it virtually locks the diffs I'm thinking of ways to solve this , its down to the different out drive designs , the genuine diffs have a sleeved screw holding the outdrivres together but the Hotshot only has a loose pin to keep it centred , I'm sure I can solve it for myself but it's a bust for making an easy conversion part for other people .

Think I've found the diff solution, I remembered a part used in my micro helicopters called the feathering shaft , basically a 2mm hardened steel rod that's internally threaded at both ends for some tiny screws , this part is just 3mm shorter than the Hotshot diff spindle so all I had to do was drill 1.5mm into each outdrive with a 2.5mm drill , a little fettling and in it goes , this stops the axial thrust from the bevel gears from binding up.

Similar concept to the "frogshot" mod used on blackfoots (blackfeet?) and frogs. Should work well!

Well it's all back together but now it's pitch dark and tomorrow looks like I'll have little or no time for play so may be a little while before I test it , the diffs are still free even under belt tension though so it's promising.

Was able to find a few min to test the mini Mustang this morning and ...... the two speed dropped a screw out of the clutch , found time to fix it and try again this evening and it runs well , diffs are still free under belt tension , still wish I could have made the Hotshot hybrid diff an option for all but it's just a bit more involved than I'd hoped for .

Way off topic but something I'm pleased with , this is drawn in fusion 360 from two pictures of cheetahs and home printed