RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

There's no reason why it couldn't be done. I've thought about this too. My way of thinking is that you make some arms that are wider that pushes the stock hubs outwards to the desired location. Change the rear hub bearings and use a B4 or B44 (depending on what you did) cvd and be done with it. No custom works spacers in the rear. No B4 steering and wide axles up front. Simple. I am currently working on getting my garage shop setup the way I want it and have a 3 axis cnc router that is waiting to be setup. I plan to try it when I get everything finished which will hopefully be sometime this summer.

guess you guys didn't see jake's arms.....

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=25317

there's also 2 versions of longer front a-arms for the standard buggy nose plate too. both in the design/prototype stage, but i don't know if either one will be made for mass production. this one is mine.

I saw bigjeepzz's arms but as I understand it, he's not making them anymore.

Something for the stock buggy nose is what I had in mind, but my real question is can it be taken a step further than just extending the arms...can new arms actually change the geometry to improve the RC10's handling?


Now being upfront I have only a vague understanding of suspension geometry but to give an example of what I'm asking about...

When I look at modern buggies I notice that the front arms aren't swept back anymore like they were on older buggies. Some of Masami's RC10 were actually that way too. Could designing a set of arms that weren't swept back improve an RC10's handling?

If the arms are longer and therefore the camber links longer as well, by default that changes the suspension geometry to bring it closer to the modern buggies.

My Rc-10 has Jake's arms with custom works spacers in the rear and GT wide axles in the front. The width is almost an exact match to the B4. It handles great, and I am sure in the hands of someone who could drive it would be able to compete.

Phin wrote:When I look at modern buggies I notice that the front arms aren't swept back anymore like they were on older buggies. Some of Masami's RC10 were actually that way too. Could designing a set of arms that weren't swept back improve an RC10's handling?

that would be the other arm i was talking about.

Man I need to check the buy/sell section more often. Those are cool.

scr8p wrote:...
that would be the other arm i was talking about.

The party working on it can mark me down as hoping more than one set is made.

I have a trailing arm chassis with a kickup that's extended, forward of the bellcrank holes, about 5mm longer than stock....and I'd like to accentuate the builds differences by using something new at the front end. The DT carpet arms are in consideration but I'd prefer not to cut those nose on the chassis.

Steering bellcranks would be cool to have made... Just throwing that out there,

If they are already, my bad!

(Sorry, I just joined the thread, LOL)

Orange wrote:Steering bellcranks would be cool to have made... Just throwing that out there,

If they are already, my bad!

(Sorry, I just joined the thread, LOL)

These bellcranks were pointed out to me when I joined:

http://jefferyracingconcepts.com/index.php?cPath=24

I was thinking something that looked more along the lines of Worlds, or Houge.

REAR ARM MOUNTS/B4 Stealth trans mount plate with inner arm hinge pins right next to the stealth to allow long RC10T arms to have ROAR legal 9.800" width using B4 CVD's.
-Single plate would hold inner pins, square hole for B4 Stealth and all would bolt to chassis plate without drilling holes!
****That would be nice as original 2.25 stealth parts are getting scarce

*As an option, have two sets of inner pin mounts on the same plate:
1. Far inboard pin mount right next to Stealth for RC10T long arms
2. Outboard inner pin mount for Klein arms

Lots of guys are starting to run B4 Stealth transmissions and I want long arms like the new RC10B4's out there.

Can i ask? Why 10T arms on a buggy? I've seen the threads and still don't get it... Just wondering?

Why not just get the dremel out and rig up some B4 arms?

New generation buggies always have longer arms than an RC10. The T arms are really the only thing that makes arm length in the same realm as the new buggies.
Why have all the new generation buggies gone to much longer arms than our stock long arms or Klein/World arms?

dspy8083 wrote:Why have all the new generation buggies gone to much longer arms than our stock long arms or Klein/World arms?

so the cars drive so easy a caveman could do it.