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Just found this thread via hcp22, really interesting and clever stuff. Hope we get to see some more pics and chat.

Thanks. I just moved to my new house and once settled in.. will get back to this project.

That is awesome dude nice find! I will have some pics of my new stuff soon.

R-C-MAN

Thanks Scorpion Kid for getting your parts list back up. I was able to score a few NIP parts as a result! I've decided to redo my rear shock mount and have it mount to rear tranny, that was I will preserve the original geometry.


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As I mentioned earlier, I was not happy with the rear shock mount position. So I set out to devise a way to mount the shock tower to tranny, ala original design. I found a scrap piece of carbon fibre and luckily the holes matched up with my blue aluminium mount. So I measured and drilled two holes into the place so that i could mount it to the front of the tranny. It work out well, however the shock tower had a lot of back and forth flex.. so I used to ball cups to attached the shock tower to tranny.. it is now secured to the tranny on both the horizontal and vertical plane.









The holes i made in the scrap piece of carbon are not perfectly centered.. which is why one of the ball links is an angle.. I plan on having it made using a thicker carbon weave..

Suspension travel is now perfect!

That looks pretty, but I don't like the structural integrity. That's a thick aluminum plate you've bolted your rear shocks to, way up high...with the only attachment points being those 4 screws on the bottom, two of which are just turnbuckles, so they don't provide any real added strength. Even if the rest of the assembly was structurally sound, all that weight of the shock tower & mounted shocks rests on, effectively 2 screws. No wonder you have too much flex. I think if you drove the car as it is now and ended up doing some cartwheels, you'd risk tearing apart your gearbox.

Beauty doesn't count for much if the car's gonna be a driver.

EDIT: Looking at that first and second picture, it almost looks like you could rotate that blue alloy bulkhead piece 90 degrees, so that the flat part you bolted the shock tower to would be facing down...and the sections sticking out to the rear, with the countersunk screw-holes, rotated up to be vertical...and that would give you 4 mounting points for your shock tower instead of 2...assuming it could be installed that way.

Wait, where are the turnbuckles? I do agree that maybe rotating the blue part may give more strength.

RichieRich wrote:Wait, where are the turnbuckles? I do agree that maybe rotating the blue part may give more strength.

Well, kinda like turnbuckles...but basically long screws with a nut securing them, then ball cups screwed on the ends, popped onto either side of the gearbox. 4 attachment points would be strong enough if they weren't all in the same plane of where the most stress would be applied. I'd be worried that the whole shock tower would shear off, taking parts of the gearbox with it, with a hard roll.

The shock tower is mounted to the thick blue plate. The thick blue plate is mounted to the scrap carbon strip which I found. The carbon strip sits on top of the transmission lobes, in essence sandwiching it to the blue round posts, which are bolted to suspension t-plate. In case of a roll, the sheer point would be the scrap carbon piece.. the gearbox would not be damaged.

The flex that I mentioned was fore and aft prior to installing the turn buckles. The piece that was flexing was the carbon strip that I used. It is not the stiffest weave of carbon. When I installed the turnbuckles, the flex went away. In fact the only remaining flex in the chassis is from the custom aluminium t-plate. In addition, If you look at the TRF201.. the same points that the turnbuckles are attached to are used to secure the transmission to the shock tower via a plastic bridge piece.

With regards to turning the blue mount 90º, (Thank you for that, its always good to have a different perspective) .. the issue I found is that counter sunk holes protrude out too far and will not let the radio tub to line up with the screw holes. Its a pretty tight fit back there.

At this point, i think the only real solution would be to redo the t-plate and extend it further out with lined up mount holes for the thick blue plate.

Ohhhhh! I see the "turnbuckles"! They kinda hide in the shadows. Now I think this should be strong enough. The only point that could be a problem is the point where the blue standoffs connect to the chassis. They could be bend point from a rear end collision/landing. How's that for playing armchair engineer? Maybe some sort of bracing down to the rails would work? BTW, this is an awesome build if I haven't said so already.

Thanks Rich.. I doubt this thing will ever see those sorts of jumps.. Probably mostly beach runs


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Anyone have any recommendations for the long steering rod that goes from servo to steering horn...

This would be great if it didn't have a bend in it

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221379356425?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

What Dampers are these I looked through the posts and didn't find it.

They are the Tamiya TRF aeration dampers .. I already had them as spares so I figured why not

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Few updates