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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:21 pm
by kyoshoracer77
scr8p wrote:if you got a shorter rear tower the shocks would bottom out quicker than they do now.

are you sure it's the shocks and not the outdrives bottoming out in the outdrives?
yes it is the shocks man. i hate it but i will buy the other tower that is factory height.

Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:29 pm
by scr8p
nevermind, i must've misread your post or something (totally possible for me at 7am :roll: :wink: ). i could swear you said you wanted a shorter tower.

Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 7:56 pm
by kyoshoracer77
scr8p wrote:nevermind, i must've misread your post or something (totally possible for me at 7am :roll: :wink: ). i could swear you said you wanted a shorter tower.
hahahaha i got u man, thats cool man i do the same thing.
i will putting a tekin rs/ 10.5 and a new 3mm regular shock tower in the buggy after my MRI on my hips on the 30th of this month.

this is the tower i need to be able to run b4.1 rear shock. and not the short tower worlds tower.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181052295078?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649.

so i got a short graphite rear tower. here is the pic from ebay of the tower.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181048429289?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 8:52 pm
by JK Racing
i run the short rear tower...what issue are you running into with it? it should be the right one with B4 shocks.
kyoshoracer77 wrote: I all most have it together, but I need another shock tower, the one I got is too short. Because the b4.1 rear shocks bottom om out before the chassis hits the table top.

Now I see it...sorry, I should look first. If you could shoot a picture & post it, I will double check mine tonight, I run no limiters and I can easily hit the desktop & roll a touch side to side if needed.

Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 9:08 pm
by klavy69
Ok,
got a question since I haven't used this guy before but if you got the short tower and the short tower states :
Running the B4 1.18" Rear shocks, these towers are lowered for the correct ride height

what is wrong? You not running the 1.18 rear shocks or did I read the whole thing wrong?

Not trying to be obstinate but just confused at this point :oops: .

Todd

Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 9:43 pm
by kyoshoracer77
klavy69 wrote:Ok,
got a question since I haven't used this guy before but if you got the short tower and the short tower states :
Running the B4 1.18" Rear shocks, these towers are lowered for the correct ride height

what is wrong? You not running the 1.18 rear shocks or did I read the whole thing wrong?

Not trying to be obstinate but just confused at this point :oops: .

Todd
i have the b4.1 shocks on the buggy in the rear,1.18 body an a 1.02 shaft. the shocks bottom out before the chassis does. there is almost a 1/4 of inch left after the shocks are compressed. and yes, that is why i got them is becaues it said they was for the b4 shocks. i will get pics of this, but photobucket is messed up. but i still have room on the drive shafts at full compression. i do have the rpm arms front and rear.

Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 9:56 pm
by kyoshoracer77
klavy69 wrote:Ok,
got a question since I haven't used this guy before but if you got the short tower and the short tower states :
Running the B4 1.18" Rear shocks, these towers are lowered for the correct ride height

what is wrong? You not running the 1.18 rear shocks or did I read the whole thing wrong?

Not trying to be obstinate but just confused at this point :oops: .

Todd
THE EBAY SELLER HAS GOOD GRAPHITE PARTS PLEASE DONT TAKE IT THAT I AM BAD MOUTHING THE SELLER PLEASE.
i did put the fiberglass tower up to see the difference. and i think the other tower will work fine.

Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 10:13 pm
by kyoshoracer77
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in this pic u can see that i dont have the right hinge pins so i drilled little holes and put screws in the to hold the pin in like the b4.1

Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 10:35 pm
by JK Racing
I wonder if it has anything to do with the V2 shock body being longer...can you caliper/measure the cap to bottom of shock body? I will measure V1 shocks to see the difference.

Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 10:48 pm
by kyoshoracer77
JK Racing wrote:I wonder if it has anything to do with the V2 shock body being longer...can you caliper/measure the cap to bottom of shock body? I will measure V1 shocks to see the difference.
yes i will. the hole shock, or just the body too??

Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 10:52 pm
by kyoshoracer77
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 11:03 pm
by scr8p
i held a blue ano 1.18 against a 1.18 v2 body and they're the same length.

Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 11:07 pm
by kyoshoracer77
scr8p wrote:i held a blue ano 1.18 against a 1.18 v2 body and they're the same length.
i wonder if the world arm make a difference or not??

Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 11:21 pm
by scr8p
i have never been a fan of the stock arm/b4 hub carrier setup. it's not a simple combination to put on the car, especially with the machining that needs to be done to the inside of the hub to make it work correctly. without doing that, the car is real narrow and you have to use the inner shock mounting holes on the arms. i don't even think wheel spacers will help out. and even if you install a taller tower, without machining the rear hubs out (which would require buying aluminum hubs) the cva's are gonna bottom out in the outdrives if you try to gain any more travel (looking at the pics).

there's just a whole lotta "wrong" going on back there right now.

Re: help with vintage rc10 racing

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 11:29 pm
by kyoshoracer77
scr8p wrote:i have never been a fan of the stock arm/b4 hub carrier setup. it's not a simple combination to put on the car, especially with the machining that needs to be done to the inside of the hub to make it work correctly. without doing that, the car is real narrow and you have to use the inner shock mounting holes on the arms. i don't even think wheel spacers will help out. and even if you install a taller tower, without machining the rear hubs out (which would require buying aluminum hubs) the cva's are gonna bottom out in the outdrives if you try to gain any more travel (looking at the pics).

there's just a whole lotta "wrong" going on back there right now.
do u think i should try the older tower an see what it looks like??or buy kline arms all around??
i do see what ur saying about if i had more travel the drive shaft would bind.