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Nice RC snow plow, should come in handy this time of year there in New York

LOL! Yeah If I angle it a bit differently: RC10 snow plow edition!

wow ! nice stuff there!

The shocks are great. Also have them (V2's) on both my cars. Countless adjustments... shock oil, springs, pistons. Get's you through the winter alright!

Savox is the real deal. I've only used cheap chinese servo's from Hobbyking and they work fine for me. Maybe you can convince me to by Savox though?

broodenburg wrote:wow ! nice stuff there!

The shocks are great. Also have them (V2's) on both my cars. Countless adjustments... shock oil, springs, pistons. Get's you through the winter alright!

Savox is the real deal. I've only used cheap chinese servo's from Hobbyking and they work fine for me. Maybe you can convince me to by Savox though?

Hehe.. yeah I mean I didn't want to spend a ton of money on a good servo, but wanted a pretty good one. I got that for $20, $3 shipping, new on ebay.

There's another one on ebay new for $26. That's cheap for a good servo, and everyone says they are good, even on bgger trucks and whatnot, so it should be plenty good enough for my old RC10 runner.

Also those shocks should help a lot too. I had 60wt shock oil in my old shocks, so I ordered some 35wt Losi shock oil for the new shocks. If I want lighter damping I can use a #2 piston. I also got some 45wt oil too. Maybe I'll even get some lighter stuff to see how that handles.

35wt - 4oz x2
45wt 4oz x1




That should make a huge difference. My old shocks worked well, but way too stiff damping (was experimenting over ten years ago, and ran out of shock oil).. 60wt is good for pavement, but not for off-road stuff.

Also got one of these (guy makes slipper discs out of rulon)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251761647432?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT







So that's cool.. and should help me get slipper working as good as possible.

.....and for tuning shocks/ suspension... got a set of springs





So at first I just wanted to upgrade to 2.4ghz so I could run FPV once in a while.. then I figured brushless would be fun, then I went a little overboard on everything else! LOL.. but I'll have a nice little RC10 runner for several years to come so I think it's worth it.

you have really everything!

I've started with 35W and number 2 in the rear 1 front. So you say higher numbers oil with lower springrates are better for pavement? Have to try that then.

did you try the new tires already?

Fantastic write up! Love the videos too. Your car looks like it'll hold up to whatever abuse you throw at it.

This thread is like a tv series lol, love the enthusiasm!

I've seen some things I've never seen before. I may even try making holes in the side of the body of one of my builds where the nose tubes are screwed on. I'm going to try using battery strap screws and body pins. I know it's one extra pin, but keeps a clean looking hood.

Thanks for comments! I m sure having fun refurbishing my old RC10.

Nope haven't tested new wheels/ tires yet. Waiting for the rest of my front hinge pin set (decided to change them all out).

Also trying to figure out what to do about ballooning before I glue on my tires. Have to do some more research. Duct tape inside? Some type of spyder wire outside? Need something.. cause they ballooned like crazy with 23t pinion and 85t spur and now I am running an 81t spur and will probably increase pinion too.

Oh! I didn't even think of using pins on the side! Good idea.


---------------
P.S. Not sure about light spring and heavy shock oil on pavement.. but I think heavier shock oil on pavement is better.. springs- I would say stiffer as well (but also lower). I'd have to experiment to say for sure though, it's been a while.

Well I got my new Servo- boy that was quick. Good ebay-er, that guy.

I hope my servo is OK.. it works great as far as speed and power.. especially power. Wow, wouldn't want to get fingers in the way! I think they'd be crushed.

The only ""issue" I noticed was that it seems to be a little twitchy, and not as smooth as I thought it should be. It is a digital servo., but I think my Rx and ESC are perfectly capable of driving it, so hope it was just interference and very precise centering, doing it's thing. I got some pics and actually made a vid trying to capture what the servo does.

Also while gently turning it while it is unplugged (or turned off), I notice it is smoother in one direction than other which had me concerned, but in action, it seems fine.

Here it is installed..












Oh and here's the other stuff that I got a couple days ago.




(I have since cleaned up servo wires, which hopefully was cause of issue)
I made a video trying to capture what the servo is doing.. will edit/ upload it soon.

Ok, so here's that vid about the servo.

I did a little more research after uploading video. I think this is probably normal compared to what I have seen from other SAVOX servos, in fact mine seems downright quiet compared to most SAVOX servos I have heard!

I know this- it is strong, and pretty fast, but mostly very accurate and very precise and very powerful compared to what I am used to in this car. Can't wait to test drive it!

[youtube]IRLNs7gszGA[/youtube]

Servo looks fine as far as I can tell. The ones I use all make a little noise.

I don't have balooning issues btw and I'm sort of using the same power spec's as you. But can't help to be on the safe side though!

how are the shocks progressing?

ps: you could also install the b4 topshaft with V2 slipper. That's a nice upgrade!

Hi Guys,

I have bought cheap metal gear servos from China the first ones that I bought MG995

made the very same glitching noises but the new Tower Pro MG996R that I am using are quiet.

I have not used them for racing just for fun, the price is great

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MG996R-Torque-Digital-Metal-Gear-Servo-for-Helicopter-Car-Boat-Model-CM-/271260864954?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash=item3f286851ba

Cheers, DaveM.

I don't have the shock kit delivered yet.. Hopefully will get it in the next few days. Got my front hinge pins today though, so I can rebuild front suspension now.

Check out my post here--
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=37222&p=417840#p417840

Looks like my shock tubes are defective. I hope I can fix them by just drilling them out.

---------copied post over to this thread------

I think mine are defective. Holes not correctly drilled into shock body. I wonder if I can fix them by just drilling them out or does that bevel need to be perfect for an o-ring to ride in there- or maybe the o-ring doesn't need a bevel?

Notice bottom left (long shock tube) has narrow hole with bevel.. and bottom right has regular size hole with no bevel, and top two (short tubes) look to have correct hole size both with correct looking bevels.

looking from bottom


looking from bottom


looking from bottom


short (front) tubes look ok
looking from top


long shock tube right- no bevel
looking from top


long shock tube left- small hole w/ bevel
looking from top

Some more build progress shots...


Found some stuff in toolbox that I could use for a shock tower brace so I thought I'd make one. Seems to stiffen everything up pretty good..


Everything replaced up front except re-using axles and turnbuckles/ tie-rods.


these are the 15 degree caster blocks (6213), also have some 5 degree ones, and stock ones to try out.




A closer look at the custom shock tower brace. It is just a cut down threaded rod with two nuts jammed up in the middle.




More done...


Much more solid with new hinge-pins and other new hardware.










Even though these shocks will be coming right back off after I build new ones..












Notice the drastically reduced caster..






Now all that's left is painting body and gluing tires.. And also building new shocks.






Still had to trim even more off of bumper to fit those tires/ wheels..


She's getting there.. I love how "beefy" everything seems now..




Body still slides on and off no problem.
















So I decided to use some duck tape to strap the tires, and also to not use a vent hole on the white set. I did drill a vent hole into the black set.

I cut tape in half length wise for front tires and went around them twice, used full width of tape on rear tires but only went around them once with about a 1/2" overlap. I weighed them before and after just to see how much difference it was going to make.

Front w/o tape- 37.52gm


Front w/ tape 39.88gm


Rear w/o tape- 56.49gm


Rear w/ tape 59.07gm


It's amazing how much more they feel like a "real" tire with the tape on there. Not some squishy rubber balloon, tire shaped thing..

Didn't have any tire specific CA so just using this stuff.. Seems to work ok.




More goodies in the mail...










Zero degree hubs..




I liked this tip from the World's manual..


Hopefully next I'll be able to build those new shocks.. (will have to drill at least one out as hole is too small)..

Tires are all glued up, just waiting for one side to dry now.. Still haven't decided on paint scheme yet.