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pumpkinfish wrote: Do you still need a motor plate? I won two stealth transmissions off of eBay and each one came with a black motor plate. Since my ReRe racer I was able to use the kit gold plate, I have an extra. Let me know, I'll mail it to you if you need it.

I could use another. I now have an extra black tub.

Send me a pm with your details.

Made some major progress over the last couple days. Need a few more AE blue countersunk washers.











Mods I have done so far are:

Rear wing mounts from a Kyosho ZX5.
Front body mount is a ZX5 battery post that I heated up and bent to the correct angle so the clip should sit proper on the body.
Rear body mount is a Hot Bodies Lightning part.
Spaced the rear shock tower out to allow the shocks to go on the back side for the correct angle. Looks to be dead on like my B3. For now I used stock shock pistons for this and moved the rear arm mounts to the aft position.

Still plenty more to go, but at least it looks like a car now.

Hi Blacktiger 355,

your car looks very similar to mine
Take a look at my thread: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=34084
Your`s is a very nice build so far. Are your towers also from carbonworks?

I wouldn`t use aluminium screws for the nose brace and the motor plate if this lady should be a runner! Otherwise a very nice build!

All the best
Raimund

Oh wow, very close in deed. And yes they are Rc carbon works towers. And the blue screws on the front are only temporary.

He's right, I bent a nose plate after an aluminum screw broke. Of course, I did rear end a Blitz. . .
It wasn't bad, and bent right back.

I use aluminum screws on my worlds car runner...everywhere I can

Ok guys, what did I do wrong here? Rear cvd's are just barely inside the diff cups.

Parts used were the new MIP cvd's for the re-re with old school 3/16 axles and gt rear hubs. Should I switch back to the stock hubs? Or do I need different cvd's?

And please excuse the rusty turnbuckles..LOL

NEED MORE SHIMS BEHIND THE HUBCARRIER TO PUSH THE AXLE INTO THE OUTDRIVE OF THE TRANNY.DON

check how far the bone end sits in the cup at full compression. That looks to me like you are pretty much where you need to be, but yes, you can shim them back inward with shims on the inside of the axle before putting it in the hub carrier.

I will try some shims and see if it helps. At full droop it sure looks like they could pop out real easy.

In that picture, doesnt look like you have much more droop you can go without the bone hitting the arm. What hub carriers are you using as well, they dont appear to be stock.

GT rear hubs as I said above.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1450_42/products_id/1705/n/Team-Associated-Rear-Hub-Carriers-GT-15

As mentioned already, that looks about right. You're a hair's width away from hitting the axles against the a-arms so you're at the extreme end of where the dogbones need to ride in the outdrive anyway. Due to the Stealth diff's higher centerline, there's a lot more dogbone 'plunge' in the outdrive during suspension travel. Full extension will give you what you're seeing.

Sure, if you have a stack of shims on the outside, you could move a few to the inside but make sure the dogbone doesn't get bent by the outdrive at full compression. Also make sure your camber is set real close to where you want it before you start tinkering with this.

Sorry, didnt see you mention GT hubs, I should know them, I have the same on my car.

Here is my plunge at rest, with shock, without shock...I run 2 shims on the inside of the axle, none outside.