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Incredible_Serious wrote:

scr8p wrote:so you are gonna send me a schumacher cougar2, and that way if i build that and the ultima at the same time, i'll basically be building an rc10?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Average

There's just something RC10 about "central tendency".....

Alex

I think the Rc10 is the moving average.

Incredible_Serious wrote:

scr8p wrote:So the ultima shows up today and I take him downstairs to the shop to meet some of the guys. I see a couple of them whispering to each other. All of a sudden they surround him, OIN and B1.5 held him down, ol' blue took his shirt off and started to tear... his... ass... UP!!!

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It was all part of an apparent initiation, and it looks like he has been accepted. They all went out for some shock oil.

I'd heard rumours about Associated and that sort of behaviour.....

So the RC-10s had a gay old time with the Ultima? Was it even asked for consent?

the ultima seemed like a more than willing participant.

scr8p wrote:the ultima seemed like a more than willing participant.

I've heard that about Kyoshos as well....

That Ultima is lucky... Ol'e Blue has been known to carry a concealed dremel, and he just got out of the joint this year...he's not afraid to cut someone-

Hmm. I heard that the Ultima can fight like a cornered raccoon. Some dogs are going to go away scratched up...some may not leave under their own power either.

i spent some time with ol' kyo this morning.

i have been hell bent on getting rid of that god awful original trans in favor of something else. after some deliberating, and going back and forth with some other options, i have decided to stick with the 2.40 b2/b3/t3 trans i wanted to use from the start. so here we go:

i took some measurements and figured out i would need to raise the trans to get the outdrives more inline with the orientation of the original trans. front and back was easy enough, i was able to slide the trans up against the rear hinge pin brace and it was good. i was glad i didn't have to get into grinding away at it. i first got the 2 holes drilled and countersunk to mount the trans to the chassis.
next up was making a plate to raise the trans. i grabbed a scrap piece of fiberglass and went to town. the 2.40 trans has a drop down area in the case to make room for the diff gear (being as though i'm in the kyosho forum, i thought i may have to explain that ) so using a b3 rear chassis plate, i marked off the area and opened it up. Not fancy, not perfect, but it works.

i also made the plate so that it could be attached at the front using the front holes for the original trans.
so here it is with the trans case installed.... for now. next up i'll work on getting the bulkhead a case tied together. i'm also gonna try to rotate the b2/b3/t3 motor plate, dropping it at the rear to lower the motor since i raised the entire trans up. and then i'll fab up a rear motor guard/chassis brace.

Nice, I love fabrication. Re: The nylon lock-nuts bolting down the fiberglass spacer...I wonder if it would be better to use regular nuts and crank 'em on with threadlock...nylon nuts won't come off, they'll just spin around, but they will loosen themselves. And you don't want a jittery gearbox. I realize this is probably just a mock-up, but figured I'd mention it just in case.

ya, everything is just mockup at this stage. the lock nuts should be fine, but i'll most likely use small, thin plain nuts for a cleaner look at the end.

Looks good! You can purchase a complete b2 trans for what a new um-01 gear bag sells for

I messed around with attaching the motor plate. There's only so much you can do trying to spin it and not have to be welding up holes and retapping where they need to be. Best thing for this one seemed to be to pivot it off of the top front hole and I would be able to lower the motor and drill and tap 2 new holes. This does create some issues though. The topshaft is no longer centered in the hole and there is a loss of motor/gearing adjustment. Hopefully, i'll be able to get the fdr on it that I need. With the topshaft, even with it not being centered, I should still be able to run a stock gear cover.
As you can see in the pics, rotating the plate dropped the motor quite a bit. 4-5 mms.

i guess i may have to rethink this one a little bit. i threw an 81 spur on it and checked the range of pinions that will fit. not many, 25-33. it would probably be alright for 17.5.

Messed around with this a little more tonight....

Tossed a diff in the trans case to see how much longer of a dogbone I was going to need. The ultima diff is quite a bit wider. A rough estimate, I would need ones about 5-6 mm longer. I was looking around on ebay and didnt really see anything. Then I had an idea......... it happens every now and then.

I asked myself, I wonder if a yokomo 870 universal would work? So I had to find out. Knowing I had some left over from my 870 resto, I grabbed my yoke spares box. Using the uni with the stock hub carrier it was just a tad too long. So then I noticed that the ultima hub carrier closely resembled yoke carrier. Camber hole, hinge pin hole, even the axle orientation. I thought maybe the yoke hub is bored a little deeper and would give me more room at the outdrive. Yup, it did. Using a front 870 wheel hub, I think I'm in good shape. Free range of motion and nothing binds. And a quick measurement should put me at 9 3/4" total rear width to the outside of the wheel when its all said and done.

Lookin good! How's the gearing going?

i was texting back and forth with jharris yesterday, and i think i'll have enough range for a 17.5, probably a 27t stock motor too. but i was looking at the motor plate again tonight and was thinking i could change how the motor is attached. maybe make it pivot at one point and swing (like an original rc10 or even the ultima plate) instead of sliding front and back. we'll see, those are cheap enough to hack up and replace when it doesn't work.