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The only way you could potentially make trailing axles work would be with telescoping drive shafts like on the JRX2. You'd have clearance issues though. You really need to use inline.

Well, I would stay away from trailing assemblies for the previously mentioned reasons. However the CVD portion of the axle assy. does not need to be inline. It will work if it is off-line as well. However, I would put the CVD deeper into the hub assy, rather than closer to the center of the chassis. This will give you some curious benefits. Basically the exact opposite of what you are currently experiencing. You will experience increased steering throw, with lower CVD angle, and bog bone plunge IN instead of OUT as the steering moves left to right.-J

Curious question....

Where's the mipet gear at? The drawing picture shows what looks like a spur gear attached to the outdrive? I'm thinking clearnce issues above everything behind the front gearbox.......servo, battery, etc.

Everything looks like its coming along great though.

Im doing my best to make out the images in the factory instructions, and it looks like the stock steering assembly is as in line as can be, but the c hubs are open on the trailing side. Stock used a belt guide on top of the servo to solve clearance issue there. Also, I think the stock 1 way setup had its drive cups wider out, probably to help the cvd bones to clear the shock tower. Super interesting project. I have wanted to re visit the 410 again. I had considered fabbing up my own version, but was leaning toward using more readilly available components, probably some yokomo, and or kyosho for the steering, and going with a 1 way for simplicity.

Ok, It looks like the early version steering knuckles were indeed using inline pivot. The trick was to use an off set on the c hub, so that the steering pivot is located back, but the cvd is still centered in the king pins.

I'm am still struggling with the design. It's a tight fit and i understand better now the decisions that were made with the original. Not giving up though.

Yeah, I remember looking at the original years ago, and realizing even then, that the designer really had to compramize in several areas to make it work. The trailing design of the front arms makes things difficult. I never did drive any that I built,, all shelfers. Not making that mistake again.

I want one too!

Currently have a cut down stealth case up front in this:

will u be able to use the stelath trans gears work for the case???

Was curious if you had made the front gearbox available at Shape Wayes? Was hoping to pick up a smaller front gear box for my RC10 build. I currently have a car similar to Wydraz's build (with a stealth trans case in the front)

free upload image

Did you every start selling the gear box on shapewaves? If you did, what are the keywords to find the item? Thanks for your help.