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is this the one that ended up being all bent-up asa?

just the front end is cocked... and one of the steering ballstuds looks like it rubbed halfway through the frame from turning the steering... oh well
i plan to take it to my welder and have him freshen it up.

when we gonna see some pictures asa lol.. get that thing powdercoated already lol. what color ya gonna do?

apparently the original powder coating (or powder coating for that matter) does not come off with laquer thinner very well... you have to soak it for hours. so I am slow about stripping it off, its almost done, i'll post a pic. I want to have it done it white, and may just paint it with refrig. paint. its an epoxy enamel that is very hard, and you get it in a can for $6 so it cheap. I still would like to take it to a welder and have him fix the front end and fill in some of the welds. they only tacked the chassis together in some places that i guess were hard to reach

if ya take it out my way here in hicksville ill braze it up for free for you, got my oxy-acetlyene in the shed, im not expert but can make good repairs etc i think no problem

mikedealer wrote:if ya take it out my way here in hicksville ill braze it up for free for you, got my oxy-acetlyene in the shed, im not expert but can make good repairs etc i think no problem

thanks dude... no rush for me, poor chassis has been just sitting in a drawer for a while. when you are banging on the chassis you making and rolling them out, i will hit you up for sure. i have a nice oxy-acetylene setup at home, but dont know how to use it, maybe i can get a lesson also

ok i am gonna take some pictures soon
thanks again

I bid 225 and was afraid Id win....

Dogbone wrote:I bid 225 and was afraid Id win....

lol 3 years ago one went for $350 and it was repainted green....

here is a bunch of pictures. its hard to see the front end is cocked but i think it is obvious when you see the car in person. you can however see where a ballstud from the steering ground through the chassis, which was not mentioned, and also how real racing assembled their chassis by only welding one side of the tubing... basically tack welding the chassis in most places. I can't believe these things held up in REAL racing action. According to the seller they only made 300 of these, so i dont know why I have a 0 in front of my number (which is 132) unless they had plans to make at least a thousand and maybe encountered some problem???

UNLESS someone thinks I have number 013 and someone stamped a 2 there for some reason? Does it look different than the other numbers?

AND I am guessing someone drilled mine for the stealth? They probaby didn't come like this right? I will countersink the holes if I put a stealth in.

BADHOOPTY don't you have one or two of these? can we see pics?

Really cool.

asashaw wrote: I can't believe these things held up in REAL racing action. According to the seller they only made 300 of these, so i dont know why I have a 0 in front of my number (which is 132) unless they had plans to make at least a thousand and maybe encountered some problem???

I can't imagine anyone ever racing one of those with hopes of winning. I think they were made more for scale looks than for performance.

As far as the serial number, I'm sure they planned to make more. They could have stopped at 300 based on demand (or lack of). Probably the coolest RC10 chassis ever, but I guess most of the after market parts people bought for their RC10s were to enhance performance. I'd question where the seller got the number 300 from too. Did he talk with the manufacturer?

You were talking earlier about reinforcing the welds. Do you mean on the entire chassis, or just the damaged areas? I can see fixing damage, but I wouldn't try to re-weld any of the other areas. I think it would severely effect the value of the chassis.

This is uber cool Asa.

I would say that in this application, the tack welds will hold the chassis together just fine and are perfectly adequate for the job if done correctly (however they weren't in the weld that cracked).

Anyway all the best, good luck and it should turn out excellent whatever you decide to do.

Dr. Robotnik wrote:This is uber cool Asa.

I would say that in this application, the tack welds will hold the chassis together just fine and are perfectly adequate for the job if done correctly (however they weren't in the weld that cracked).

Anyway all the best, good luck and it should turn out excellent whatever you decide to do.

thanks man, if you mean the second to last picture of the weld looks cracked, it is not. that is the jagged edge of the cut steel. the tack weld is on the other side. even still IMHO the chassis needs some TLC

wow.

does everything line up close when its all put together or is the chassis straight and the nose welded on uber crooked?

asashaw wrote:BADHOOPTY don't you have one or two of these? can we see pics?

i have what i think is a clone of a real racing chassis. its pretty much the same design except a little longer wb and it doesnt have the tabs for panels.

heres a pic before it got powdered:
http://pics.montypics.com/badhoopty/2007-03-19/1174352382_tubers.jpg

badhoopty wrote:wow.

does everything line up close when its all put together or is the chassis straight and the nose welded on uber crooked?

its just the nose plate, i think. i think it was welded on crooked. i figure they used a jig for these, but...?