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hondaman wrote:
2.) Does yokomo white plastic respond to peroxide like Associated? Yup.. Did mine for my 870C and Works 93.. Came out great.. Just don't try to dye the bulkhead caps.. I hear they warp (there was a thread somewhere).

Shawn

You can use same peroxide treatment on the bulkhead caps, it wont warp them. Just don't boil the peroxide off them afterwards, they have a low melting point and will warp very quickly. Think it may have been my thread

I found this out the hard way with 6 re-freshed caps. Still haven't recovered from that!

And to put the boot in, I only boiled the Yokomo caps because my previous lot of peroxided associated parts that I didn't boil off were left with my mint team truck parts and stripped the anodizing!

Im wondering about the rear bulk head and rear suspension mounts. Does the suspension mount on the rear bulk head? Or are there plastic suspension mounts like on a 94? Also,, is that rear bulkhead a machined version of the old style 870c rear bulk head?

Front end looks like text book 94 95 yz10,,, but the rear of this 93 wcs needs more clarification! Im about 2 cars away from having a complete timeline of production 4wd buggies from 834 to bmax4. The carryover effect of Yokomo designs is so cool. Its fantastic to see the evolution of the designs from 1 model to the next.

My guess is that the front end was debuted on the 93 wcs, and the all plastic rear end came out in 94,, but the rear end of the 93 wcs looks like a mix of old and new!

I've started looking for parts again. I've bought a few bits and have a few more bits so I'll update when I've got enough content.

Just to confirm the proper front universals are ZD-423 (s)?

Also, is this the rear belt I need? Chrliedontsurf said 95t but one tooth difference with the chassis mod should accept the belt without a problem.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-TEAM-YOKOMO-RC-YZ-10-M2-96T-KEVLAR-REAR-DRIVE-BELT-ZC-658S-/121464200010?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c47d49b4a

I guess it depends on what buggy You´re building?
There´s YZ870C (Which in the US ended up as YZ10) And then there´s the YZ10 94 and onwards.

It's a 93' WCS

Well, I've painstakingly taken the pulleys themselves apart, cleaned them and cleaned the diff halves. Luckily the outdrives are in great shape and don't show signs of wear. I've also ordered a front belt, 96T rear belt, steering bellcranks, 16mm yokomo Ti turnbuckles and front universals which should be on the way soon.

The parts list is slowly ticking down. Monday I will buy new AE .71 shocks, diff rings, balls and diff rebuild kit.


Another question I have is the special kingpin screws, are there two of the lightweight slotted head screws or should there be four? I tried looking at DerbyDans build but photobucket images are on the fritz on my phone.

RC10th wrote:Well, I've painstakingly taken the pulleys themselves apart, cleaned them and cleaned the diff halves. Luckily the outdrives are in great shape and don't show signs of wear. I've also ordered a front belt, 96T rear belt, steering bellcranks, 16mm yokomo Ti turnbuckles and front universals which should be on the way soon.

The parts list is slowly ticking down. Monday I will buy new AE .71 shocks, diff rings, balls and diff rebuild kit.


Another question I have is the special kingpin screws, are there two of the lightweight slotted head screws or should there be four? I tried looking at DerbyDans build but photobucket images are on the fritz on my phone.

4 slotted. I got mine from a YR4 lightweight kit which I understand come in two varieties, the newer type with hex and the older type with slotted.

Bummer, my car had two slotted kingpins on top and two hex kingpins on bottom. Is it really worth worrying about? As much as I'd like to keep the car original it is race modified beyond originality.

RC10th wrote:Bummer, my car had two slotted kingpins on top and two hex kingpins on bottom. Is it really worth worrying about? As much as I'd like to keep the car original it is race modified beyond originality.

Then I wouldn't about them then use it as it is and just keep an eye out some will turn up eventually

Fiberlyte got back to me and are happy to cut out WCS top decks and steering rack/braces. Like Peakey said they only require you to send in the material to be cut.

So my next question is.......

Where is the best place to source OEM style fiberglass? Most current fiberglass offered doesn't look quite right to me. I'll probably get a couple made so if there is any interest let me know.

Here's my total progress so far of cleaned and new parts ready to be assembled, slowly chipping away at it. Sadly someone else bought the .71 AE shocks so that's something else I have to track down.

I still have a few bits in transit like rear belt, white steering bellcranks and front upper turnbuckles.

My poor top deck is broken Masami style. I managed to break off the "patch" which came off rather clean. I think this is going to be one of the hardest parts to find, unless I can find a fiberglass sheet that has an OEM appearance.

RC10th wrote:My poor top deck is broken Masami style. I managed to break off the "patch" which came off rather clean. I think this is going to be one of the hardest parts to find, unless I can find a fiberglass sheet that has an OEM appearance.

mmm, didn't masami use a shock damper on top of these

Hi there

When I did mine the only stuff I could find had a glossy finish but could easily be dulled up with a scotch bright pad just practise on an off cut but mine came up pretty good.

peter

RC10th wrote:My poor top deck is broken Masami style. I managed to break off the "patch" which came off rather clean. I think this is going to be one of the hardest parts to find, unless I can find a fiberglass sheet that has an OEM appearance.

My steering servo saver kit, rear belt and front upper turnbuckles arrived today. Half a dozen more parts and I can start assembling it.