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You not thinking of putting them the body-rear end? Or maybe put different lights but sitting on the rear fender

You have very good suspension clearance and those cut rears sure look good from the back! I just went all out and cut them, figured even a cut fender is still going to limit suspension travel since I am not going to mount body so high.

back in the day, they used to mount the stock tail lights up on top of the fenders when cut like this. I'll play around with it and see how it looks before I mount them. Yeah, clearance is decent. I could have sat the body down lower with body mods, but decided to keep it as is....looks ok IMO.

I don't think I've seen pics of your set up.......do share!

well the pics of the VW, the re-re one and the vintage ones are all on my flickr account, along with mods, carbon fiber parts, shock restorations, machining of the gear head 5 slotted wheels etc

https://www.flickr.com/photos/110872915@N05/20957841292/in/dateposted-public/

check it out

And check out the custom made VW handles for the vintage sand scorcher, the plastic ones that were on auction at that time went crazy high - $50+, I said thats took much, I made the ones that you see from solid aluminum, all polished, better than any plastic original, I say, I have all pictures that show how it was made too,

Awesome build man, kudos. How did you mount the body by chance?
I love how you split the rear wheels, great idea.

thanks HOTRODVW, I had to take pics between each process cause explaining and showing pics is completely different, so easy to see whats going on when you have pictures, I not posting any pics here cause it is tedious, takes time, I just upload on flickr, all original size and you can see it zoomed up and all.

With the wheels, I am very happy, it is a 2 piece attachment, with a plastic tire insert inside, just like the original kyosho design, now its very functional, those 6 screws have a purpose now, before they were there for show only.

The rear is mounted via 2 wires and clip onto the chassis with the help of techacraft wing mounts, very cool!, the wires go up and bolt onto a carbon fiber plate, the brass lugs that hold the wire to the CF plate are from tamiya special rod end set, the CF plate screws onto the body, using the same lugs where the window screws at the back, for the front for the vintage buggy, I had a weir 'T' tower to which those clips fit to, look like racing bonnet clips, very hard to put on body and take out, I have dropped that idea on the re-re body, still have to figure out how to mount the front section of body, as the hole and post position don't line up, I can make another hole on the bonnet section but lets see what I come up with,

Now you got me thinking about those tail lights, when I cut the fenders off, I kinda felt sad as I would not be able to mount the tail lights, they will look super nice with the lenses painted transparent red, that reminds me, better buy some tamiya paint, this project, kyosho datsun and 1/8 scale rowdy baja ones have been hanging too long! I will see how the lights look if I mount them on the rear next to the plate mount holes, gotta cut the sold lights out first, takes a bit of time doing!

just looked up 'kudos' did not know what it meant!

THANKS

Ha ha! Where do you live?

I live in the US here in SF but am originally from Fiji, been in the US for 2 yrs now!

Its looks grate so far Ron, but I’m a bit disappointed that you don’t take the time and publish the pictures here at RC10Talk

I'm curious to see how the carbon fiber pieces hold up to some abuse. Looks awesome.

Hey, anyone know where I can get an adjustable/slotted motor plate??

Lars - all I can say is that I was busy with work, ha ha ha, it takes time with posting.......... well thanks for posting those VW pics here, put a smile on my face THANKS, I guess it is easier when pics are right in front of the reader/viewer.

HotRodVW - Those 1.5mm CFs are pretty strong, now CF is the norm, its not so much a special space age material anymore, you can make these parts out of 2mm CF but its overkill in some applications and makes your ride a bit ugly. The motor mount looks a bit weak on my VW but its not, If you grip the gearbox from the back and cantilever the whole buggy, you don't even feel the CF mount flex, CF is much much stronger than aluminum and less weighty, it flexes to some degree but does not deform like aluminum, IT BREAKS, only when the force is excessive.
CF is a pretty awesome material overall, it looks good, not that out there and works great.

Put an original SRB sand scorcher front body post on the servo M4 screw, it was way in front and so I had to make a hole forward of the original hole in the bonnet of the VW, it looks great now, got to cover the original hole, and than make a CF bumper for the VW to protect the nose A lot to do still, and the ideas just flow like water but making them into reality takes time and some clever thinking.


Hotrod VW, you could slot them yourself with a round small file if you can't get one

Sorry, it's hard to tell how thick the CF is from the pics.
I would slot the hours myself, but the counter sunk Hines would make it difficult I think. I'm laying paint tomorrow, getting closer every day.

What I do with carbon fiber cut out parts Is that I round off all the edges a little so that you have the cf part appearing thinner than it actually is, this is an illusion that tricks your eyes. It's what apple is doing with iPads, iphoes and Mac book pro

If you have the slots counter sunk then, use plain flat screws, for counter sunk holes you will need a milling machine