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Alright, parts have trickled in to try out my idea on #4, so here we go.

B2/b3 mounts, dynotech b2 arms, b3 hubs.
Measurement from left to right....
Compared to a stock rc10 rear...
I think this is gonna work out.

did a little more work on this. got the new holes drilled and countersunk to shorten the tub (still have to chop the front off), and moved the servo holes and the one for the antenna mount. in the back, i had to open up the square for the diff gear since the 2.40 case is a little larger lengthwise. i also used a b3 rear chassis plate to make the rear motor guard (i may cut the side off to look more like a b2 plate). now it's at the point where joe can have at it creating a bulkhead for it.
as you can see in the pics, some modifications are going to be needed on the arms for cvd clearance. i'm hoping there will be enough material left. i may have to have a pair made without the openings in the middle..... or at least not as long of an opening. i may have to go with a b2 3/16" universal instead of a cvd since they take up less room.

don't forget you can possibly try cva vs cvd, flipping the ball and cup, the cup end on the axle gives the bone a smaller footprint.

let me know when you are getting that in the mail and I'll see what it takes once I get it.

I thought about cva's too. On either one the cup is just big and I already need to remove quite a bit of material just to get the hub carrier to move freely. With the uni's being smaller in diameter I figured I would be able to keep more material on the bottom side of the arm and not dig it out so much.

Another thing I thought about was attaching some thin cf strips to the bottom of the arm to regain some of the strength they're going to lose. Right now this thing is just a test mule so I don't care if it looks a little homely.
another thing i though of doing was use b4 hubs. going by measurements of one of my "old is new" cars, i think i could use them along with b44 cva's and b4 wheels. clearance definitely wouldn't be an issue anymore. i would need to get a pair of b4 hubs to be sure, but i really wanted to keep it more b2'ish (deep dish wheels).

Are those DT arms B3 length or B2 length? B3 length with B4 hubs I believe would use B4 CVD....at least that's what I remember people doing to run B4 wheels on a B3.


Maybe Worlds/B2 hubs with B44 CVD...or RPM GT hubs to raise the drive shaft.

the arms are b2 length.

the thing you have to remember is that while the rear is set up like a b2, it's actually wider because of having to use and work around the holes that were already in the t2 tub. that's why i planned to use the b3 hubs from the beginning. the chassis pushes the arms out, the hubs bring it back in to what a b2 would actually be. my goal was to have no issues with cvd lengths. so far that plan is working.

right now i'm just fighting the clearance issue around the backside of the hub. i'm tempted to pick up a pair of factory AE b2 arms to see how they would be. going by pics they would probably be alright, but i wanted it to have kind of a custom look to it.

here is a raised losi hub with a b44 cvd. as you can see it's buried in the outdrive. b3 arms would make it better, but then i'd probably be dealing with wheel fitment issues (track width mainly). anything other than the b3 hub is going to screw that up right now (using b2 arms).

What does that losing hub look like with other cvds you had there?

What about drilling new inside hinge pin holes in the arm to shorten it enough to use b2 hubs? Looks like there's a big enough space between the arm and the arm mount...is there enough material to drill a new inside hinge pin hole at the correct length?

jwscab wrote:What does that losing hub look like with other cvds you had there?

Losi hub with b3 cvd. It's in there, but the arm is level. Swing it up or down and it'll fall out.

Phin wrote:What about drilling new inside hinge pin holes in the arm to shorten it enough to use b2 hubs? Looks like there's a big enough space between the arm and the arm mount...is there enough material to drill a new inside hinge pin hole at the correct length?

There is, but the arm would end up being too short. It would only need to go like 3/4.... maybe a full hole.

What I could do is have dynotech make me another pair and drill the inner holes to my measurements. But at that point, he could just make me a pair of arms without the openings and I can clearance the hub area as much as I want. Even using a b2 hub there's still no room for a cvd. Its just not opened up enough there.

tonight i was doing some thinking/planning ahead on this. while doing that, i was thinking about how the shock tower would mount, and if i would be able to use a standard buggy tower. the trans brace runs right though were the upper hole are in the tower to attach it to the bulkhead. no big deal i guess, i'll just have to move the mounting points.

but while i was checking it out, i had an idea to set the wood proto tower from b1.5 #1 up against the brace and was surprised to see the the upper tower mounting holes lined right up with the 2.40 trans brace. it's also at a height that makes it real close to be able to run 1.18 rear shocks.

Are going to stain or paint that tower?


looking good

stain, of course.

I would go with a dark walnut!

i have the wood front one too, so it'll be a matching set.

little update.....

i sent the tub, trans, and suspension parts off to joe a little while ago to let him whip up a rear bulkhead. i forgot to take a pic of it before i started shaping it, but here it is so far. i'll probably try to do i little more lightening to it. also reshaped a stock tower on the sides to clear the trans brace mounting holes.

now that that parts is done, it's on to buttoning up the rear suspension and drive line.