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rccars4sal wrote:Real men drive rear motor chain drive buggies! Beautiful work. Are machining by hand or creating cnc files?

All done by hand using vice, files, Dremel, drill press and sandpaper. I had a local machine shop machine up a couple of things for me that I couldn't do accurately enough. In a year or so I'll have gotten my hands on a lathe and mill. No CNC files either.

Fitted Associated classic shocks on the rear. Moved the rear arms out to the optional wider setting. Dropped in Scorpion stub axles and dogbones. The outdrive cups are RC Channel's. I had to remove some excess metal from the final drive gear shaft that was protruding into the drive cups. With the arms level there's about 2mm of dogbone side to side play. I haven't fitted diffs to the front or rear yet.
And pretty much the same at the front. Moved the front suspension out to the 12mm wider setting. Scorpion stub axles, dogbones and RC Channel outdrive cups. Plus excess metal removed from the final gear shaft. About 2mm side to side play at the front too with the dogbones level. I'll have to move the front shocks to a slightly more upright position. As it is now the front dogbones just clear the shock ballends but as the suspension is compressed they foul at about half travel. I'll fit rere Scorpion universals to the front to improve steering lock as well.

Finally it's a 4WD.

My wheel and tyre combo of choice came in the post today. Looks pretty rugged.
Still more to go.

Those tires really set it off especially with the Good Year lettering.

Super cool build

Thanks fellas.

Soon as I saw the Scorpion rere I knew which tyres I would use.

Got the steering in. I had a spare pair of Classic bellcranks I wasn't going to use in an RC10. Just right for this.
I can always throw in some worlds bellcranks as an upgrade.
Also made new shock towers which moves the tops of the shocks forwards and lets the dogbones clear the shocks. It's tight up front but everything clears which is a huge relief. If I ever make another SRB like this I'll position the top shaft in the front gearbox almost on top of the final drive gear. It would free up a lot of space by raising the chain away from the chassis.

That's looking all kinds of awesome! I wonder though about the sides of the chain running so close to each other in opposite directions...if there's any kind of slack, that could be a problem. Do you have plans for a chainguide of some sort to keep them separate and making contact?

Thanks Coel.

Yep, I've got to add another roller guide under the top part of the chain. That'll definitley keep the two sides from clashing.

Glad to see an Associated part make it into the mix

The rear shocks too!

Those tires on there do it for me. Nice work.

Thanks SD.

I'll have another update eventually. Just gathering the electronics (and the funds) for the next step.

Fantastic!

Thanks Fastang. Glad you like it.

Have you picked a body yet?
Ifnot I'd like to suggest an 834B

I was thinking of a TBG MRP Mears shell with the back cut off. I've tried the one from my 2WD and it fits really well.