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Make sure you put a couple of layers of glue on the rear suspension mount holes, so that the screw head is just barely above the chassis so that the screw head is is applying its force on the entire thickness of the carbon fiber. If the screw head is below or flush with the chassis, your not getting the full strength of the chassis.

What sort of glue do you recommend?

CA glue

Does NY glue work?

(sorry... it's lame, I know)

Lonestar wrote:Does NY glue work?

(sorry... it's lame, I know)

It's all about the West Side!

Mark, yet to start a thread on mine, but I'm just tinkering with a dry fit right now taking all the advice so far, but one thing i have noticed is the tweak in the back, from the rear top deck post, to camber link block.
With the camber block pinned down, if i tighten the top deck, it tweaks the back of the deck by about a 1mm bend as it rests on the nubs we have to drill out?
Ive pondered shaving the block at the bottom, but this would cause problems elsewhere, so I've used a 1mm washer on each post, and that relieves the tweak, just wondered what other may have seen.
Loving this thing though, a real builders car, hence, I'm test fitting and fettling like a madman before i really get into the nitty gritty.

bests.........lee

What are you referring to as 'camber link block'? Are you referring to the rear bulkhead? ASC6323?

Make sure your front bulkhead/arm mount is not installed yet.

Start by putting the 8/32 aluminum screws that mount the bottom of the bulkhead in a drill and shave down the diameter of the screw head just slightly. I found they hit each other, which could cause the bulkhead to malign when tightened. Check to make sure your bulkhead is flush with the chassis. What shank length ball stud are you using for the camber link in the bulkhead? .030 is what I believe I used and it was just the perfect length and did not interfere with the top deck.

Check the length of the chassis stand offs and make sure they are the same length. Check your chassis and top plate on a flat surface, make sure they are flat.

I would start the car assembly with the steering rack assembly on the bottom chassis plate first, then install the chassis stand offs, chamfer the top deck for the front bulkhead like I described in the CRCrc thread, then install the top deck, then rear bulkhead with the screws shaved down like I described, I drilled out my rear bulkhead top deck mounting screw holes installed on the chassis at that point then screwed that down. Then test fit the front bulkhead to make sure that top deck fits in the bulkhead nicely, and to see how much you need to elongate the lower bulkhead mounting holes in the chassis like the CNCrc thread suggests.

My car didn't have any chassis tweak. Can you get a picture of yours?

Ill take a pic Mark sure, i cant see much i can do though to remove the tweak, this is with the stand offs fitted and just resting on the bulkhead nubs.
Bulkhead is also flush on the lower plate! Ill tinker some more, but the washers seem to cure it well!

Bests....lee

Cracked it, its my fault, doh, only thing i can see, is when i trimmed the battery holder webbing, i need to trim it off the tops of the bulkhead nubs, its spot on to the clearance i need
Schoolboy error haha!

Bests, and thanks Mark.....lee

Hi Mark, silly question but what do you use to hold down the servo, i take it that it is not mechanically fixed in position ( at least i cant on my Build)
is there a special bonding agent that you use for it, any help appreciated.
cheers

Shoo goo or Goop if your looking "permanent". absorbs just a tad but strong like ox! It will clean up but not easy like servo tape

Thanks Gomachv, geez your quick.
i have never dealt with Servo tape before, is this the standard D/Sided tape that comes in Associated and Tamiya Kits, or is it something stronger.

There are a lot of types and brands, my favorite is the one sold by rj speed. The stuff from the hardware stores with the white core (3m) is weak but great for vintage shelfers

BRP wide super stick servo tape #7541. The smae stuff I used in the 90's the servo tape my servo's in. I'll work on putting some servo mounts on my chassis later.

Yup, BRP is good stuff too, and Bud is still active in RC