RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

bats wrote:What kind of rear tires are you using?

Those are vintage tires I received along with the rims. I doubt anyone makes them anymore. You can get new slicks from CRC here: https://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?name=Shopping_Cart&file=product&c_op=viewprod&prodID=7719704 These will be much better. I plan on trying them on my RC10L soon.

OK, here is the weekly update. I made a new narrow front axle that should be perfect now. I finished cleaning up the solder joints on the chassis and I added the push bar and parachute mount. I also trimmed the body for the axles, steering and spur gear. Due to all the work on the new axle I couldn't finish the fire wall so that will wait until next week. I also plan to build some new steering knuckles as the old ones don't cut it anymore.


Kilroy's been at it again! My new work platform.


Got the rails boxed in at the front.


I built the chassis so that it could be completely stripped down for work. The RC12E mounts are perfect for this build and work the same way structurally as they do on the Associated car.


Once I get the firewall soldered in the body will be trimmed up to meet it. You can see the hole for the steering servo in this pic. I'll have to make my own linkage arm.


This was not a fun job! I'm very pleased with how it turned out though.








The new narrow axle. Now to make some proper steering knuckles.


Parachute mount and push bar.










These really are handy! Until next week!

She's coming along great! The opening for the spur gear turned out really trick looking.

Really nice so far.....I've got to tip my hat to your welding....I tried it on an industrial scale and can't imagine being as surgical as you....looking forward to watching you document the project

Great work

Progress is looking sweet. I like seeing everything in its raw form as its being built.

Thanks guys! I took a break this weekend, needed R&R bad after the crazy work week I had. I've got lots of new parts coming in for next week though. GPM aluminum axle blocks, Lunsford titanium screws and front axles and all the hardware to complete the steering. Next week I'll most definitely have something to show.

I had another busy weekend so I didn't get as much done as I wanted. I did make a new set of knuckles and mounted up the tires. Hopefully I can get more done next weekend. Anyway, some progress is better than no progress.


The new knuckles are made from aluminum plate. These things were a pain in the rear to make. I still need to remove some tooling marks and then re-polish them. The steering blocks are from GPM for the RC12 and the axles are Lunsford titanium.


I love polished aluminum!


The graphics have been picked out. I think they work.


I raised the ride height on the nose by 2mm for better ground clearance. It won't bottom out now. Trying to find ball studs small enough to fit solder on Dubro ball cups. Might look at 1/16 scale stuff.

I want to say the tamiya ball ends for grasshopper/lunchbox, etc fit the small dubro cups. I can try it at home and see.

jwscab wrote:I want to say the tamiya ball ends for grasshopper/lunchbox, etc fit the small dubro cups. I can try it at home and see.

That would be cool of you! The problem I have is normal 4-40 ball studs are too big and bind on the Dubro cups and normal ball cups wont fit the threaded coupler. I may try Dubro 884 ball studs, I think it will be the same problem though. If that doesn't work then I'll try milling down some normal ball studs until they fit or making my own threaded coupler. I'm trying to keep the steering hardware at a scale size. Normal steering hardware looks too bulky on this machine. The parts I'm using are for airplanes which is why I'm having the problem. Custom = pain in the rear.

yep, i should have everything in my parts bin to try it out.

the other option is the ball cups from the tamiya, as they are meant to fit on something like a 2mm threaded link, I think the dubro solder on links are 2-56 right? the tamiy ball cups would need a little trim/shave since they have a little flange part on them from what i remember.

jwscab wrote:yep, i should have everything in my parts bin to try it out.

the other option is the ball cups from the tamiya, as they are meant to fit on something like a 2mm threaded link, I think the dubro solder on links are 2-56 right? the tamiy ball cups would need a little trim/shave since they have a little flange part on them from what i remember.

I found the parts I needed. They had been discontinued by Dubro and now sold under the Great Planes name. Just ordered up a set! Thanks for your efforts in looking though, much appreciated. Hopefully I'll have smooth sailing from here out.

cool, what parts are you looking at?

I found some small dubro ball links, the clearish ones that use the 2-56 size link, which i think is the same as the solder fittings. They seem to fit on a ball that was closely sized to an associated ball, and only loosely on the tamiya ball end.

the tamiya ball end is about 2/3 the size of the associated ball end, and has a 2mm thread. of course it fit well on the corresponding tamiya cup.

jwscab wrote:cool, what parts are you looking at?

I found some small dubro ball links, the clearish ones that use the 2-56 size link, which i think is the same as the solder fittings. They seem to fit on a ball that was closely sized to an associated ball, and only loosely on the tamiya ball end.

the tamiya ball end is about 2/3 the size of the associated ball end, and has a 2mm thread. of course it fit well on the corresponding tamiya cup.

I have the same ones you are talking about and they wouldn't fit on my new Associated ball studs very well, they were binding up. Funny since I used these on my RC12i restoration and didn't have any issues with the original Associated studs on that car. Could be the Associated studs I have are made differently from the old ones. I didn't want to order anymore to test out since I would probably end up with more parts that won't get used.

These will do the trick and are on the way, exaclty what I needed. The GPM steering blocks aren't threaded for ball studs to screw into and the hole is larger than 4-40 for some crazy reason so I can't thread it myself.

Check it out! I picked up some film that simulates engine turned aluminum. I just wrapped the seat, really thin and easy to use film. It's overcast outside, in the sun this stuff really shines. Should look sick against the painted frame.