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joey_zrl wrote:

howaboutme wrote:

RC10th wrote:Here's an example of the bullets...... top pic is bad, bottom is good.

Thank you! This is very helpful.

I've been trying to figure out the nomenclature when reading the description to the following battery (link as an example only):

http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_97&product_id=397

When they state "5mm inboard", are they referring to exactly what you're talking about (though they are using 5mm)? Is there a distinction between 4mm and 5mm for ESC/Battery connection or is 5mm more typical for esc/battery? Otherwise, an adapter might be needed...And to clarify, for the battery connector, it would be a male?

For motor to ESC, the ESC gets the female while the motor gets the male? These are all the same connectors?

Here is an 'example' of a lipo battery with 4mm inboard +/- connections:
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_92&product_id=121

You would need an adapter with 4mm male end plugs, to connect into the 4mm female plugs on the battery.
Like this one: http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=66&product_id=106

EC5 plugs for your esc/battery connection:
Female: http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=66&product_id=165
Male: http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=66&product_id=164

As for which plugs go where on the esc and battery... the battery always uses the female plug, and the esc uses the male plug. Using a female plug on the battery is a safeguard against dead shorting the leads together accidentally, since the connector leads are enclosed inside of the connector plug case on a female plug, the leads are non-exposed.

The esc motor wires.... there are three motor lead wires on a brushless esc, labeled A, B, and C. One for each phase winding of a three-phase brushless motor. Racers usually solder the motor wires straight to the motor's phase tabs to prevent resistance (heat) caused by using plugs. However it is possible to solder on bullet connectors between the esc and motor if you want to be able to do a quick motor swap. Racers want all the power they can get, so that's why you don't see them using plugs in that area.

Thanks so much! The links help a lot.

I also visited one of my local tracks today and spoke with some of the racers. A good point was made about the various nuances on setups, electronics, etc available. Point is, driving is key. Spend time on practicing and less on buying every hopup. Being new, I should stick w/ as close to stock as possible and learn how to drive. Then, when I am more experienced as a driver, I will eventually know I am being limited by my setup or equipment. That said..I am not too worried about what "racers" prefer but hope to get to that point where I will care.

So..Looking in person at some of the way electronics are connected, I have more of an understanding and the reasoning behind it. Crazy how you just can't get the same comprehension (info yes) from the internet as you can in person.

My preliminary plan is to have the following connection types:

ESC to Battery:
One of the "easier", hard to mess up connectors such as EC3 or EC5.
With this, I don't need any of the adapters, right? Since SMC (as an example) provide direct EC5 connectors from their batteries, I am all set in terms of batteries. I just need to solder on the same connector from the ESC?

ESC to motor:
direct solder onto each 4mm bullets as you and everyone else have described. This will allow plug and play easier. What I am not understanding is some of the risks involved w/ the bullets. As described above (for battery connections), do I have to worry about connecting the wrong wires to each other for ESC/Motor? It should be pretty obvious the 3 wires. Do I have to worry about making sure they don't touch each other by providing some protection on each wire?

I know the above may seem like a messy set up but I think for a newbie, it's much less intimidating, initial solder aside (which I may have someone else do anyways).

Any thoughts welcomed. Thanks! (Unbelievable how much information there is learn...)

Well...I wanted to start the build tonight...

Step 1: I need 3 #6931 FHPS in parts bag A (actually A2, I guess nested bags are not called and are assumed to be part of the main bag) but only found 1. The booklet states I should have 6, not even close. I looked in the box but nothing. I also looked elsewhere in the manual to see where else 6931 is used and found nothing. I guess I only need 3 but 6 is provided in case of misplacement?

Are missing pars normal for AE? I will contact AE in the morning to get a replacement bag A. Very bummed, can't really progress w/o being able to complete Step 1. Now I wonder what else is missing....

Edit..nevermind..I'm an idiot.

You only need one.

scr8p wrote:You only need one.

Thanks, very embarrassed. I was just about to edit my previous post. I see the "other 2" are 6280....Must pay attention.

No worries bro. I can relate. On those SMC lipos...I'm not sure if they come with an adapter. I see that they offer a 5mm to 4mm adapter for their new 5mm inboard lipos. You might call or email SMC to find out exactly what you will need. They will get you all set up.

I do know that my SMC 5000mAH 2s 40C lipo fits really tight lengthwise in my RC10. The length of my lipo is 138.92mm. If you tab over to SMC's website, you can check the length of the battery you're going to order by clicking on the 'specification' tab under the pic of the battery and make sure that it doesn't exceed 138.92mm.

Shorter would be better, but it looks like most of their full-size packs are around that length.

Thanks for the heads up on the dimensions, Joey!

I'm still a bit torn on the connections. After more snooping around on the internet and looking at pictures of people's cars, I am now back at wondering if a direct 4mm (or 5mm in the case of SMC) is better. In other words, keep the connection as planned for ESC to motor but switch the connection from ESC to battery to a direct solder with male bullets to the battery "inboard". My question for that is, how does the charger connection look? I assume I will need a 4mm (or 5mm) male bullet to banana connector? does that even exist off the shelf? I looked at Progressive and couldn't find anything, but not sure 100% what I am looking at though.

This is my charger:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/product/helicopters/dynamite-lipo-chargers/chargers--1/prophet-precept-80w-lcd-ac-dc-battery-charger-dync2015

Thoughts?

It's hard to beat a 4mm plug direct to the battery. This is the connector I made for charger to battery. Notice the banana plugs on the connector; they are fine for charging ( i find) but create resistance in high amp situations.
edit: can't add photos right now, but bananas are compatible with these:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/polymax-4mm-gold-connectors-10pairs-set.html
They're also available in a low profile version, which I find difficult to remove.

harvey wrote:It's hard to beat a 4mm plug direct to the battery. This is the connector I made for charger to battery. Notice the banana plugs on the connector; they are fine for charging ( i find) but create resistance in high amp situations.
edit: can't add photos right now, but bananas are compatible with these:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/polymax-4mm-gold-connectors-10pairs-set.html
They're also available in a low profile version, which I find difficult to remove.

Thanks!

After more sleepless nights..(just kidding)..I've decided that, since I was going to have someone solder anyways, I mind as well do it right the first time. That is, direct solder from ESC to Motor and then solder on male 4mm (or 5mm) bullets from ESC to Battery. Then what I'll need is a banana to [insert my favorite connector such as EC3, EC5, Deans, etc here] and then a [insert my favorite connector such as EC3, EC5, Deans, etc here] to male bullet to charge.

Does that make better sense to all? My head hurts from all of this information.

Nothing fancy but I am super excited that my last major component has arrived!

Good choice, Hobbywing make an excellent product.

RC10th wrote:Good choice, Hobbywing make an excellent product.

Thank you! Very excited!

don't overthink the wire connections. Just use whatever is easiest to get the esc, motor, battery connected while leaving your charging ability intact and easy.

it's all personal preference and you won't notice a performance difference.

be more concerned with doing a good job soldering any connectors you chose and insulate them well.

jwscab wrote:don't overthink the wire connections. Just use whatever is easiest to get the esc, motor, battery connected while leaving your charging ability intact and easy.

it's all personal preference and you won't notice a performance difference.

be more concerned with doing a good job soldering any connectors you chose and insulate them well.

Thanks. I think what I am going to do is to have my LHS do it for me and watch them the first time. And then take my time to learn and practice. My LHS doesn't charge too much for it.

But I am going to do direct connections from Motor to ESC and then 4 or 5mm bullets to battery. Just like the fast guys!

howaboutme wrote:Nothing fancy but I am super excited that my last major component has arrived!

Nice choice! Did you go with the 17.5T motor? The XR10 esc has butter-smooth throttle and brake response. That particular esc can be programmed by the set button on the on/off switch. It shows you in the manual how to go through the beep/light sequences to set different parameters. Or you can do it by the LCD programmer box (sold separately) which is a lot easier. I think all I changed was the brake strength and the drag brake. The brake strength was too weak out of the box. You might want to experiment with the drag brake setting at your track, so you can try out the different percentage levels and find which setting works best for you. LVC (Low Voltage Cutoff for lithium batteries) is set to 3.2V by default. That's where you want it set for racing anyway. The manual programming of the esc was a little tricky for me at first, but I finally got the hang of it. Remember this...one long beep =5.

Went w/ 17.5.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm so behind on the build, not even past the first page..Just been so busy w/ life/work. Will hope on it this weekend and hope to make some progress.

Realized last night that AE uses imperial hex's. I only have metric. Thought I read that AE uses metric but guess I was wrong. Doh! Luckily, I have some, not so fancy, allen keys that I can use until I get a better hex set.