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Nice job. Like the custom touches you added.

Jason, Ed and I went up to a raceway in NJ, Crispy Critters yesteray. It's pretty decent place, and the track is a red clay base.

Initially started with #2 piston 35W up front, black springs, #1 piston 30w rear, silver springs. Didn't change shocks from there, but really, I still need to figure out my tires. lack of rear traction made it pretty tough, but even with that skating, I could tell the car handled really well. We were running a practice session along with a bunch of 4 wheelers and short course trucks. This track has a monster jump over a part of the lane, and lots of carnage and mayhem happens if you can't land it right. Considering all of the punishment the car took, I was very happy with it. The rear was a bit too soft for that jump, but otherwise was suited pretty well. I didn't want to firm it up since rear traction was already poor. Jason let me borrow a set of better tires and that really woke up the car. It's nice when you can point the car and it goes in that direction

great day of messing around and sharpening the skills. The worst casualty is my wing and wing wire. In the future I may consider moving to a shock tower set up for wing mounts.

other thing is to get some better suited tires. We will probably try and make this a monthly thing, anyone that is local to this area should try and sync up with us. Practice on Sunday is 11am-3pm for ten bucks.

Shot of the car with the body Jason decided to let go.

Thanks for sharing You know my thinking about shock setup for this car already I think #1's in the rear is really on the soft side, confirmed by your comments, while #3's pack way too soon. #1.5's or #2's is probably close to the sweet spot.

can you please call out your shock mounting points (f/r, tower and arms) and are you using the rear camber links as per the pictures on the previous page?

Thanks!

jwscab wrote: ↑Thu Nov 09, 2017 8:40 am little bit of machining last night.

after machining to 1/4" OD:
IMG_20171108_203743200_HDR_1680x945.jpg

I need a few pairs of these in my life those are fantastic.

Car looks great. I personally dont like the #1/30 wgt on the rear of the car, I usually start with #2/30, if I need a lighter feel, 27.5, but 99% of the time its 30.

yes, camber links are as shown before, the shock mount points are outside holes in both arms, outside hole in my front shock tower, although if you don't have this particular tower, it doesn't mean much. I can take a measurement of how far apart the shock tops are for reference. Rear shock tower holes are the third in from outside, I think I could improve the softness by moving out one hole, less progressive, so stiffer response at full extension.

JK Racing wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2018 10:59 am

jwscab wrote: ↑Thu Nov 09, 2017 8:40 am little bit of machining last night.

after machining to 1/4" OD:
IMG_20171108_203743200_HDR_1680x945.jpg

I need a few pairs of these in my life those are fantastic.

Car looks great. I personally dont like the #1/30 wgt on the rear of the car, I usually start with #2/30, if I need a lighter feel, 27.5, but 99% of the time its 30.

Joey, shoot me a PM...I'm busy the rest of the month and the first week or two of Feb, but I can make you as many as you want. I'll just need a couple measurements or details about what bellcranks you are running with them.

yeah, the #1/30 is a touch light. I'm afraid #2/30 might end up too stiff, maybe #1 with 32.5? Something I want to play with That reminds me, I found this cool chart that overlays regular bore and big bore shocks on a chart along with piston/oil combo so you can study how to adjust both to get the right feel for the shocks. I'll add it shortly.

jwscab wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2018 11:00 am yes, camber links are as shown before, the shock mount points are outside holes in both arms, outside hole in my front shock tower, although if you don't have this particular tower, it doesn't mean much. I can take a measurement of how far apart the shock tops are for reference. Rear shock tower holes are the third in from outside, I think I could improve the softness by moving out one hole, less progressive, so stiffer response at full extension.

Thanks Yes, would be great if you could measure the outer hole spacing on your custom Front Tower

Good looking car!

this is the chart:

Amazing how close I am to my 'standard' set up with that chart and my big bore shock car.

10mm 12mm
#2/32.5 front #1.5/30
#2/30 rear #1.5/27.5

So this update is on the scale of Scr8p, although this is not a build update per se, but some action shots taken last year (HAHHAH) at Critters racing up in North Jersey for the Vintage race we had sponsored.

There are some great action shots showing some nice traction and suspension articulation, the sequence is a hard jump up at the end of the 'back stretch', into a sweeper dropping altitude with some bumps, into the front straightaway.

Great thread. Makes me wish I was back in NJ.

jwscab wrote: ↑Tue Oct 31, 2017 9:53 am

Second look at other items, it turns out I only have some hinge pins..... For these parts, I use 1/8" titanium stock and cut to length and add e-clip recesses...

What lathe tool/insert do you use to cut the C-clip groove?

I bought it from little machine shop, it's a narrow parting tool insert, 0.015" wide. The whole tool with 2 inserts is kind of pricey so I just made a tool holder for the blade.

http://lmscnc.com/3576

The insert is 13 dollars. The tool holder is like a hundred. For a milled price of steel? I made my own.

Right on. If it is HSS, not carbide, i am sure I already have one ground on some 1/4" stock. Thank you for the idea of making our own. I saw the Lunsford Ti pins, but had a hard time justifying it.

Any idea what grade Ti that is? I haven't machined Ti much, and want something that is workable.