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mk-Zero wrote: ↑Sat Dec 30, 2017 10:44 am Very cool build, I love all the detail/documentation!
Did they just machine the 0-deg ones to make the 15's?
And, for those of us (well, me anyway ) that don't know anything about it, when was this car released?

Thanks, glad you like the build!
Yes exactly, they just machined the 0-deg ones for making the 15-deg.
The RC300 was introduced in 1979. Please see Team Associated website, they have a detailed timeline for all of their cars there.

OK build continues now. These are the parts for next steps.

Bags unpacked showing main parts for building the tie rods. Other hardware will be used later.

Parts for building servo saver.
All parts will be cleaned and deburred now.

Building the ball joints for the tie rods could be done in a vise. Don´t use pliers as the ball cups could be damaged or scratched. I think you want perfect looking ball joints, when using new parts.
Well actually the vise does work quite good, if all parts are perfect size. If not, how do you remove the balls from the ball cups without damage or scratches?
I have build dozens of ball joints through the years and sometimes the steel balls are slightly oversized, as with one of the RC300 balls. Or surface could be too rough so the ball joint will be too tight or move not really smooth. In this case you have to remove the ball and slightly grind and polish.

This is the ultimate tool for assembling and especially disassembling of ball joints. I don´t remember which company made that tool around 30 years ago but if you find one, go for it. You will like it. I think CRC sold a similar one much later. It´s not only useful for building ball joints for tie rods but also for building front or rear ends.
The picture shows the tool after unscrewing, the left part uses a 4-40 thread where the right parts goes in. This is also the position for disassembling a ball joint.

For assembling the ball joint you have to reverse the left part of the tool. Slide the ball on the thread, then move the tool through the ball cup and turn into the left side of the tool like a screw into a nut. This way the ball will be pressed perfectly into the ball cup.
Just note one important fact, most plastic ball cups may look identical on both sides at first view. But if you have a closer look to the hole where the ball goes in, you will notice one side will have a sharp edge and a slightly chamfered edge at the other side. At this side the hole might be slightly larger also.
The ball should go into the ball cup from the chamfered side.

2nd step

Plastic balls cups showing a 'T' and a 'I' side. The 'I' side have slightly chamfered edge where the steel ball should go in.

Servo saver and tie rods completed.

Front end and servo saver mounted to front chassis plate. Of course front chassis plate was cleaned before also, even when new. This makes a different look.
Tie rods were mounted to servo saver and steering arms. Tie rods were adjusted for a slight toe in for the front wheels. 90 mm overall length for the tie rods do a quite good job here. If you ever plan to run a RC300, you could go from there and adjust to your needs.

Front view

Wow, beautiful, so clean!
Those tie rods look so tough, look like they can take some abuse!

Holy Cow! There are twelve (12) mounting options for the servo link in that bellcrank. That's awesome!

Thanks, glad you like it!

All the parts are new, so you could go the easy way and just build the car.
I don´t polish parts for making them shiny as I prefere a natural look, but cleaning all the parts make a big difference for pictures. But again this takes a lot of time.

Yes I think there is maybe no other servo saver providing more options for the servo link. So there should be the right position for any servo.

Body mount brace, bumper and radio tray prepared and cleaned. Also body mounts added to brace.