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Hey, welcome back. You're back early!
Nice solder work -- mine never look that nice.
Are the ESC wires long enough to reach the motor tabs? I've thought about hard-wiring my ESC's directly to the motor if the wires will reach. Unlike the old brushed motor days, brushless motors don't require routine maintenance (other than a drop of oil for the bearings) so there's no need to remove them. Eliminating the extra bullets might clean things up a bit. Just a thought.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 06, 2018 10:04 am Hey, welcome back. You're back early!
Nice solder work -- mine never look that nice.
Are the ESC wires long enough to reach the motor tabs? I've thought about hard-wiring my ESC's directly to the motor if the wires will reach. Unlike the old brushed motor days, brushless motors don't require routine maintenance (other than a drop of oil for the bearings) so there's no need to remove them. Eliminating the extra bullets might clean things up a bit. Just a thought.

The wires are long enough to hard wire to the motor. I like the bullets on the motor make for programing the ESC rather easy.

Today, I'm working on filling the holes in the motor plate with two heat sinks. I've done these parts once before, this time I'm getting a bit wild with them.

I start out with some 3/8" diameter aluminum round bar. I turn it true, about a 0.005" cut on both pieces. I then turn the ends to 0.2495" diameter with a 0.075" length to match the 1/4" holes in the motor plate...
I'll be back later on with more.

More...

I drill and tap the ends for 4-40 with the last of today's sun coming in the window. If it's right tomorrow, I'll get on with some more work!

I've got one done, now to duplicate it!

Wow nice work! I'm hoping to buy a small lathe soon to make some of my own small parts.

mikea96 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 08, 2018 9:33 am Wow nice work! I'm hoping to buy a small lathe soon to make some of my own small parts.

Excellent! It's fun as heck man. I keep an index card with measurements for everything I make.

I've never used a lathe so it will be interesting to see how some of my first parts will turnout We have a milling machine at work that I play around with sometimes.

mikea96 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 08, 2018 9:53 am I've never used a lathe so it will be interesting to see how some of my first parts will turnout We have a milling machine at work that I play around with sometimes.

It's really not that hard. I taught myself, with help from YouTube. I bought my lathe back in 2003 at a flea market in Florida. It sat collecting dust for a few years before I cleaned it up and got serious about learning.

A couple of things today...

I got a little bit further on the ESC wiring. I've not finalized where the switch and power cap go, depends on battery placement. I have a few parts coming that I think will work out and look unique. Some of them are intended for a Team Losi.
I've started on making some nerf bars from 3/16" solid rod. Still tweaking them to get a pair to match before drilling the attachment holes in the chassis plate. Measure 3-20 times before drilling!

Very nice Nomad. Having the ESC mounted on a plate over the battery next to the bulkhead makes for a very clean installation. Might raise the CG a tiny bit but I think it's worth it.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 10, 2018 10:51 am Very nice Nomad. Having the ESC mounted on a plate over the battery next to the bulkhead makes for a very clean installation. Might raise the CG a tiny bit but I think it's worth it.

Thanks Doug! I don't think the ESC being elevated will matter to me.

I got the nerf bars tweaked and ready to file some flats on the ends. Not going to tackle that job till later. They are not in position but you get an idea. Besides giving a bit of side protection, they give a handy "handle" to pick the buggy up!
I got this TLR 22 Slotted Battery Bulkhead (AV1022) from Avid this morning. It's black anodized alum. I'm digging the look. I've got some more components to go with it coming, end of the week/next week.

"Getting an accurate flat on round bar/tube"

This can be rather troublesome at times. I came up with a way to do it last night! Once you've decided where you want the flat, file a mark in the bar. Next place the bar between to pieces of material, in this case I used two pieces of a shock tower that had the right height. Next, go at it with your choice of file until you get it down to the guide pieces of shock towers. One edge of my file had no teeth so that's the side I used against my mark.
The flats came out more accurate than trying to eyeball it even and have a true surface. Love to have a mill to do the flats, alas, that's not in my budget so old school techniques will have to do.

I've used that method as well. I guess great minds do think alike -- well, in this case, old minds think alike.
Anyway, hooray for "old school techniques" because they tend to work every time!!

XLR8 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 11, 2018 9:36 am I've used that method as well. I guess great minds do think alike -- well, in this case, old minds think alike.
Anyway, hooray for "old school techniques" because the tend to work every time!!

I believe the "old minds" fits quite well.