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radioactivity wrote: ↑Mon Dec 14, 2020 8:06 am

adam lancia wrote: ↑Mon Dec 14, 2020 6:28 am This is such a cool build Thanks for sharing it.

I was thinking about your front brace issue (which looks solved) but would you have been able to modify the aluminum chassis to accept B6 chassis rails...? Those would have mated up to the front brace and given you some added rigidity in that area. I'm thinking of doing something similar, but with a flat sheet of 4mm carbon fiber, Ultima Pro XL rear end, A&L Lethal Weapon, and a B4 front end with part of the B4 chassis grafted onto the 4mm sheet. I'd love to use a set of those side rails to tie the B4 front end into the carbon fiber.

What body did you use?

Thanks Adam

The thought of using the B6 side rails did cross my mind.
I guess I just got determined to try and solve the fitment of the B6.2 upper brace using the pan chassis original nosebrace tube mounting hole and headed down a different path.

As for your ?? Kyoshociated ?? I say go for it!!
My build was a little challenging but in the end well worth the effort. Learned a little bit about new suspension systems also.

And the body

turbomirage.JPG

Chuck

I know that feeling

Thanks for the body link!

Getting on with the paint...
I wanted an identifiable "classic" paint scheme with a few twists and some personalization.
Always liked the Masami/Takatani themes but too busy for me.
The front shock tower arrangement also kinda reminds me of the Masami builds.
So going with only the flames, and RC10 roof decals from the original. Then a portion of an AE team associated for the side.
The side "decal" was trimmed with a black paint border then backed with white paint.
The flames and RC10 roof are reverse decals that were put down dry very carefully and ended up with no bubbles, either lucky or my new method.
In the past I've placed the decals wet with mixed results.
Chuck

Wing decal modded and trimmed with black border like the side body decals.
Trying to keep a theme going as the RC10 roof decal and the flames decals are bordered in black.



Chuck

Masked every thing but the windows and hood outlines and shot them black. Really happy with the nice crisp outlines.
Then all the decals, which are all reverse decals, were masked including the "hood" area and the body was shot with Tamiya PS17.
Overspray film is still on at this point.



Chuck

Re-masked and backed the green and decals with white.

Then pulled the the masking off!
Next is PS31 Tamiya window tint...


Chuck

Looks really creamy and satiny metallic. Pearly. Amazing what a backer of white does.

Been awhile

Recently got a Carbon fiber RC10 LiPo battery holder. The aluminum spacers that came with it were raw aluminum.
Even polished they didn't look right, so anodize them...
The spacers are small and cylindrical so they are relatively easy to bring up to a mirror finish.
It did take four or five attempts to get them to match the AE Factory Team blue.
Adjusting anodization depth and dyeing times were critical.

The larger "cube " in the back is a failed, too dark and too purple, attempt try to get a matching dye for the servo mounts.
The "cube" was in the dye for 30 minutes and the spacers were in the dye for 20 minutes.



Chuck

It took 3 more attempts, but I got it!
Anodized to .8 mil and 25 minutes in the dye bath.
Almost perfect match to the 91668 RC10B6 FT Aluminum Steering Bellcranks.

The "test'' cube above was anodized to 1mil and 30 minutes of dye bath.

The curiosity is when the same Electric Blue dye is used at varying anodization depths and dye times it can be anywhere from a lighter teal to a darker purple.
It seems more yellow (teal) when lighter and more red (purple) when darker????




Chuck

Another example of sheer determination and patience.
Looks great Chuck!

Got too focused on anodizing and just realized never gave any updated body pics.
Pics were taken before anodizing was started.
I had sprayed the Tamiya PS31 tint and removed the protective film.


Still have a few items to work on and a few parts on their way.
But it's getting a lot closer to being done.



Chuck

A bit out of sequence but...

The battery hold down is actually made to place a shorty lipo in a vintage RC10.
With the layback trans and waterfall, placement was a bit different.
Some trimming on the carbon fiber was also necessary for clearance.
The LCG battery is not quite so long as some others so I added a split piece of silicone tube on the inside edge of the mount to make a snug fit.

Remounted both the ESC and receiver in slightly different orientation as well.
The Esc housing was cracked and top and bottom pieces were separated so I replaced the housing with a new one.

The body just falls on the chassis with no clearance problems at all.

Took a final weigh-in including body and wing. With the shorty LCG battery 1450g, with a standard shorty 1500g.

For anyone curious...

A Mouser heatsink with very thin adhesive graphite thermal pad was added to the top of the Reedy 800z ESC.
I'm not sure that it needed it but the OEM flat aluminum just didn't look adequate.
The "retention clip" was bent from the spine of an old windshield wiper blade.




Chuck

Came out great bud...........................

Thank you

Think it's pretty well finished other than a few blue anodized nuts etc.

Quite a few challenges but well worth it in the end.

A couple hundred views and no mention of the "easter egg" on the wing?

Chuck

Did you drive it yet?