RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

morrisey0 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 22, 2025 4:26 pm This little JG gem has been on FBMP for quite some time, and I have quickly looked at it multiple times, but just figured it was a graphite RC10 with a JG MT conversion on it, and for the price, wasn't worth it to me. But this morning, I looked at it a bit closer, and noticed that not a lot of it actually looked like the MT conversion kit that I have, and actually not a lot of it looked like a RC10. So, I hit up the Google, and ended up at this fantastic little website with all the basic info I needed: https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=36340 I was intrigued, and made an offer I figured the seller would refuse, but nope, offer accepted. Off on a four hour round RC trip I went.


And the great coincidence of it all, this is the same truck as in the thread above. So, 10.5 years later, I introduce this JG SRT to RC10T again. It is quite the smorgasbord of AE, JG, RPM, Houge, and Robinson Racing.


JG SRT 1.jpg



JG SRT 2.jpg

Isn't it neat how these things pass around and end up back where they "started"? Small world. Love it!

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Sun Mar 16, 2025 5:41 am You're not being helpful with his will power to restrict his purchases.

So Halgar, we hear your collection is a bit sparse these days. There's this good deal in your area ...

Wait a minute, I thought this site was about enablement?!?!?!


Yes, but they're always singles and I'm looking for package deals.

Halgar wrote: ↑Sun Mar 16, 2025 10:55 am Yes, but they're always singles and I'm looking for package deals.

I love the side package deal! I love when the seller says, "yea, I have some other things you may be interested in."

Today's deal was so great! Price was stupid IMO. And this probably isn't it. Seller is in the process of moving, so everything is in different spots. He supposedly has LOTS of parts boxes, but not where he was today.

The MT was built, and run in the air (vrooms vrooms), but never saw the ground. The chassis is mint. A quick tear down, clean up, and rebuild and it will be good to go. I will probably get a body for it, and some more appropriate electronics in it.

Then we started looking through the rest of the "old" stuff, and I ended up with:

Hawk in good condition
(2) RC10 Six-Gears in fair condition
Tami WW M38 in good condition + extra body in good condition (grille bars broken on both of course, but tires are decent)
Tami Cheeteh missing quite a bit including body
(2) Cox 1/2 metal pan cars in rough shape
Tami Boomerang in very good shape but needs some parts
Ricky Carmichael bike (Radio Shack). He thinks he has more parts for this, and it is impressive how metal this bike is for being RS.

Nice score!

Any smart people here help me out with what to refer to this type of screw as? It is pretty much the opposite of a shoulder screw, as the shoulder is narrower than the thread diameter. It is one of those screws that stays in place when you remove a plastic cover / cap / top / etc (think old school distributor cap). Basically, you thread it into a plastic hole, and then it hangs freely, but won't fall out, of the piece it is attached to.

morrisey0 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 02, 2025 8:35 pm Any smart people here help me out with what to refer to this type of screw as? It is pretty much the opposite of a shoulder screw, as the shoulder is narrower than the thread diameter. It is one of those screws that stays in place when you remove a plastic cover / cap / top / etc (think old school distributor cap). Basically, you thread it into a plastic hole, and then it hangs freely, but won't fall out, of the piece it is attached to.



shoulder screw opposite 1.jpg

Captive panel screw

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Wed Apr 02, 2025 9:24 pm Captive panel screw

Thank You!

About twenty years ago, I knocked the back glass out of my wife's Cherokee by kicking up a rock with a weedeater. Today I 1-up'd myself.

Ouch!

Back in the early to mid '90s I was hitting a Wiffle ball across the front yard when a gust of wind came out of nowhere and blew the ball at a right angle lodging it in the kitchen window. I didn't get in trouble as my mother saw it happen due to standing at the sink of said window.

Then later in the '90s we had a big stump ground in the front yard, and my father asked the guy if he should move the car in the driveway. The guy said no as it was far enough away, and nothing would happen. Well he shot a rock straight through the side window.

Those are the only 2 times I can recall having glass accidentally break.

I've cracked windows panes running over fallen walnuts with the ride on mower. Luckily the panes are small and fairly easy to replace.

You know what would be really cool? If someone could make a box art masking kit for the RC10T, the DS, and the rest of the AE cars.

Is the reason we use nylon lock nuts due to their plentifulness, low cost, and plethora of sizes? Basically it's a 'good enough' type of thing? There are other locking nut types out there that seem superior. I found this out last year when I was buying hardware for one of my puller projects. I was trying to find stuff that wasn't made in places like China just to see if I could, and I came across Aerotight nuts manufactured in Leicester, UK that I bought. I have yet to try them but it's a neat concept that eliminates the nylon. I'm under the impression that every time a nylon lock nut is used it rapidly loses its capability which these would resolve.

There are nuts that have a deformed thread as a locking feature instead of the nylon. It's almost like having an intentional cross thread. If installed on a threaded item that was a really hard, good grade of steel, they would be superior to a nylock nut. But if installed on aluminum or low grade soft steel, they would destroy the threads of what they are being installed on. Nylock nuts do not cause any thread damage.

Yeah, makes sense. I'd never use a steel nut on aluminum regardless though, and I never really considered they'd be that detrimental to the steel threads of R/C parts. I just Googled to see if the Aerotight nuts are safer, and it claims they're designed to minimize thread damage compared to other locking mechanisms. Basically they may just take the plating off. They'll be great for my puller project at least as I'm using super high-quality Holo-Krome socket cap screws.

For what it's worth you can buy made in the USA flex lock nuts from Grainger, MSC Direct, and McMaster-Carr, but dunno the price compared to Aerotight. My take is nyloc nuts strike a balance between maximizing retention and minimizing damage for the price. Never seen a flex lock nut on an RC car but nothing wrong with using seriously nice fasteners... silver plated stainless steel 4-40 flex locks only cost $11 a piece, how many nuts could an RC puller possibly have.