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Blackfoot sitting on it's own weight. Now I need to finish the electronics.
Ampro steering blocks. Ampro shock mounts and body mount supports. World of Prints rear shock mount braces and skid plate.

It's electrified!

Mounted the Hobbywing 1060 and Novak XXL on a piece of Kydex and routed all the wiring underneath.

That 15T Orion SV2 is probably overkill for a Blackfoot, but damn it looks good.

Well, I took my stuff out of the car once back today from Vosgienne RC 2023, and RC car event in Tendon, Vosges, France...

As usual, I went there with a few cars, and many of them actually ran during the event...


There was many discussions around 3D printing, just like last year, but probably more, as more and more people are aware of my work (and the Super Wheelie Mitsubishi was quite a good topic/discussion opener)


There was some Super Wheelies at the event (those car were quite frequent in France, there was even race categories for those cars)...


A very nice 6x6 prototype made of various parts and home made body...


And for the rest, many many GP cars that actually ran...









Lot of fun, many discussion, runs and some broken parts (a servo saver, a diff (my own mistake : the carter was not closed and a small foreigner object came in), a few screws lost)... Servo saver and Diff are already replace and the Hunter run again. I will need to resupply some M3x8 button head screws, as I don't have any remaining...

I have a Stadium Blitzer coming in a couple of days, so I thought I would refresh it's sibling Falcon before it got here. This car is crazy pure, and I only have about four hours in the teardown and refresh of this thing, granted I didn't disassemble the trans or anything, or even the front end (just dipped the whole thing in the ultrasonic ). I think it only has probably 3-4 battery packs ever run through it, and it is going to sit on the shelf, so not worried about the trans. The only non-original parts at this point are: tub, front bumper (which I am not sold on my Parma replacement), rear tires, rear hubs, front bearings, some screws, and rx pack rubber band. The original body needs about 20 minutes of touch up work, and it will be on soon.

Finally working on something again. Disassembled the Traxxas SRT. Anyone know if it's possible to "whiten" the fiberglass yellowed chassis? Suppose I could attempt the peroxide bath in sunlight routine, but don't think it'll work on fiberglass. I bought a new Factory Works natural color upper chassis to match the lower chassis (thought it would look better), but they're extremely different. So, likely gonna stay with the original black graphite upper chassis.

Also could use some pointers on how-to re-anodize the motor plate & guard.

The Genova's body is out for paint but I wanted to test drive the car at the track, so I found a beat up JRX2 body in my scrap pile and proceeded to make this abomination:

Ahhh, so your the one that bought the SRT

RC10th wrote: ↑Fri Sep 22, 2023 6:40 am Ahhh, so your the one that bought the SRT

Bought this one last November 2022, just now getting around to it. Wasn't there another SRT up for auction recently? Is that the one you're referring to, or is it indeed this one with the silver painted Proline body?

It looks exactly like one that was for sale on ebay not that long ago, with a silver crowd pleazer body and all. I hope it wasn't nearly a year ago.....

Indeed it surely was nearly a year ago...
Little disappointed to find out it doesn't have the original ball differential though, has the cheap gear diff. Regardless, everything is in exceptionally good condition. Ball bearings are very smooth and shock fluid was clean as a whistle.

A friend of mine bought a used Slash and wanted me to see if I could fix the body. Personally, I would've trashed it and started over. Anyway, I stripped the paint from the outside and cleaned up the cuts (which looked like it was done with a rusty hacksaw). I fabricated a new bed from styrene, replaced the windows, detailed the engine and added the wheelie bar.... It's not perfect, but he was happy with it....I think I'll name it "Lazarus".

Before pics:
After:

Finished up my Blitzer mechanically. Front camber is off, especially on the driver side, which is perplexing considering it isn't adjustable. Maybe the caster block is out of whack.

morrisey0 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 25, 2023 3:39 pm Finished up my Blitzer mechanically. Front camber is off, especially on the driver side, which is perplexing considering it isn't adjustable. Maybe the caster block is out of whack.

It's not uncommon. These things have a lot of play in the fitments, allowing things to shift.

I only have fixed links on one of my Blitzers, and the angles look jacked up. Some of it is in the actual alignment, the rest is play.

Today I made some replica MIP style trailing arm sets and listed them here

https://factoryworks.com/shop/ols/products/irs10

Trinity Slot Machine rebuild….it went poorly.

Nice can, nice endbell, sticker isn’t mangled but ran terrible.

Brushes, comm cut, bearings, gently worked can tabs so it still looks good. But it was running just as poorly, shaky, rev’s all over the place.

I’ve got a bad wind, so says the multimeter. Probably a bad comm tab weld. Guess I’ll just put it in a shelf queen.