RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Halgar wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2024 10:10 pm ...to work on carburated vehicles, you've got to find...an old timer's shop

I just met an old timer master Ford mechanic/racer 20 minutes from my house It was like the first time you meet Santa as a kid

Halgar wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2024 10:10 pm Unfortunately, today's shops can't even fix modern vehicles, let alone handle 40+ year old technology. They just don't have the knowledge OR the equipment to work on carburated vehicles, you've got to find either an old timer's shop or a specialty shop, or, do the work yourself.

Sad but true. I learned many years ago when I acquired my 1986 Grand National from my dad, the original owner, because of the general weirdness of the car back in the day, I could NOT trust bringing it to a shop. At the very least, they'd round out all the bolts because they're Metric, not Standard, on a domestic American-made car. Then when my brakes weren't working properly--no pedal--my buddy, who was a certified mechanic, checked the master cylinder and saw it was only 1/3 full and proceeded to top it up, as you would on any NORMAL car. That messed up my brakes even worse, with now a mushy pedal feel and the brake idiot light always coming on. It was then that I realized I needed to learn about the car and trust only myself. The Powermaster brake system is supposed to have the master cylinder at 1/3 or so fluid level when the car is off. When you turn the ignition, that's when it pressurizes and the brake fluid rises up to a proper "full" level.

With every car I own now, I join a forum dedicated to that vehicle and the knowledge shared there is far more valuable than what you get at most service shops. And if you get a sore butthole, it's because you screwed yourself, not let a shop screw you.

I've owned and dealt with a couple Edelbrock carbs over the years. Once tuned, they seem to do pretty well on drivers.

While I avoid fuel with ethanol on carburetors in general, Edelbrock and Carters seem even more vulnerable.

While they seem to do well with drivabality, they tend to fall short in the performance department. A properly tuned Holley Double Pumper is hard to beat.

And once you figure out what a Holley wants, they can nearly match the drivability of others while holding a distinct performance advantage. I used to daily drive a car with a Double Pumper without any issues.

My Charger (383 Magnum) ran like crap with a Holley 750 Double Pumper. The moment I swapped it out for the Edelbrock 750, it ran great right out of the box. Admittedly, I'm sure I could've farted around with tuning and got the Holley working properly, but the ease with which the Eddy just bolted on and worked was a win. A lot of people will say Mopars don't like Holley carbs, maybe that's partly true, but I do believe either brand of carb will work wonderfully if tuned properly. Both have their strengths and weak points, and certainly both have their die-hard fanatics.

EDIT: I sold the Holley 750 DP to a buddy who was restoring a 1967 Chevelle SS 396, and it worked beautifully on his car.

Weird.

A friend had a aftermarket Quadrajet on his 440, which ran 11.90's. Swapping the 750 DP from my car picked up seven tenths ( yes, tenths!), and we only adjusted the idle. Considering that it seemed to run fine with the Quadrajet, I can't explain the massive performance difference.

He has offered to buy that carb from me multiple times.

I think most of that performance difference might have to do with the jets, needles and springs. The default set you get with the Edelbrock carbs might not be ideal for optimal performance, but maybe tend towards driveability. The good thing is, changing them on an Eddy is as simple as can be. Unscrew 2 screws on the air horn, lift them out and replace. Certainly one set of needles & springs is not going to be the best for every single motor out there, but you can get more out of the carb by determining which are a better set for your particular motor.

My '97 TL1000S, rebuilt and restored by me a few yrs ago (spun rod bearing)

Brought another Vette home yesterday. Being an 80’s kid this was always my favorite body style. Never thought I’d own one but with as low as the prices are right now I had to jump on it.

XXWoodmanXX wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 3:23 pm My '97 TL1000S, rebuilt and restored by me a few yrs ago (spun rod bearing)

Sweet! I rode a '97 TL1000S for years.
Mine was the dark-green version, had full Yoshimura exhaust with carbon-fiber canisters:

Here is a project my Son and I built together when he was in high school. It was great to share the vocational skills I learned in school that unfortunately are no longer an option in schools today...

Factory Ford dual exhaust bumper with the parking sensor holes shaved, and Flowmaster American Thunder exhaust installed.
Been working on this idea since I got the truck two years ago.
Couldn’t be happier with the outcome. The system makes the coyote five-o sound wicked

Picking up the new-to-me ride Sunday morning, rust free 1970 Mach 1. And new wheels and tires on their way.

romulus22 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 28, 2024 7:05 am Brought another Vette home yesterday. Being an 80’s kid this was always my favorite body style. Never thought I’d own one but with as low as the prices are right now I had to jump on it.

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Sharp looking C4. 1991+ C4's were always my favorite looking of the generation.

I was a nut-hair length away from buying this one a couple weeks ago, even though not a fan of the wheels and sideskirts. Spiral gray is my favorite color C5.

romulus22 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 28, 2024 7:05 am Brought another Vette home yesterday. Being an 80’s kid this was always my favorite body style. Never thought I’d own one but with as low as the prices are right now I had to jump on it.

Red sports car = midlife crisis


Just sayin'

I’ve been in crisis for years