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Thanks for the info. I'll try to order up some 3D printed stuff later this year and see how it goes. I figure I'll just wear these tires out then buy a shelf set and then decide on runner tires.

Here's mine. It's a neat little car. I had the same issues as everyone else, the shocks were not great. Also was missing one of the lower spring retainers on the front. I e-mailed Losi and they sent me a whole set, which I managed to rebuild into a full set of perfect condition shocks Both the originals and the replacements weren't really consistently built well. Also picked up some springs in a lot off eBay for a Mini-T, it's a different car with a solid suspension now.

Then the cool Trinity Monster motor finished the look and feel. Feels like an old school racer and a high level kids toy like the original motor. The shaft didn't fit perfect, but I don't think that pinion is going anywhere and I'm not racing it or anything. I guess worst case I shred up the spur gear and revisit later but it seems to be fine.

I'm not going to do much more to it, but it's fun to drive around.

Here I go again, doing weird stuff with this chassis. Designed up a scaled down replica of the Composite Craft top plate for the mini JRXT chassis. I had adjusted it to fit my relocated battery hold down but then noticed I had inadvertently made it nearly the same size as a shorty lipo. So behold, a Mini 5link JRX Pro with nearly 8 times the capacity of the stock battery and weighing in at just over 700g. Special thanks to Jeff from Factory Works for cutting this so fast. I do need to make a few adjustments for the next one as I didn't compensate for where 2 of the original screws were but I am pretty happy with how much stiffness this adds.

I'm embracing the big ass battery idea.
Created some battery hold downs, swapped the 3d printed standoffs for aluminum ones, got some fresh JConcepts tires demounted and put onto a set of my Pro wheels.

In case anyone missed it, Amain has the JRX2 Mini for $99.

Losi mini Jrx2 re-release

Hi everyone, first post here so please bare with me if I make any mistakes!

I want to address some great things and some not so great so we can continue to help each other and move this model forward for hopefully more upgrades and just appreciation of the vintage appeal.

I got my mini Jrx2 about a month ago and absolutely love it. It is very “old skool” and much fun to drive. The rear mounted motor gives it tons of traction and has a super stable and planted feel, it seems quite heavy which is good for stability.

First off I just put a zip tie around the servo saver, absolutely crucial since it is so light and sloppy.
Secondly the shocks came with minimal oil and need replenishing but working great now with no leaks. The rear springs are very soft so probably room for an upgrade soon.

Fyi it is not water resistant so as I ran it some muddy days on my outdoor track, the underbody stays clean but as I was cleaning it up, even being very careful to not get the receiver/esc wet it still glitch out on me. I let it dry a couple days and it turned out just fine so I got lucky.

This car just looks sexy and slick, the red color is bright and I remove all the decals for a cleaner look with no “tatoos”.

I have ran it enough to wear off the paint or dye on the bottom of the chassis and everything has worked great, really putting it through its paces, such a joy to drive.

“So now to my current issue”

I am not pleased with how they designed the differential/driveline marriage and I can’t really understand how or why this happened: My right side drive screw holding the outdrive to the differential just snapped off for no reason.. The joints are pinned to the outdrive with a roll pin. In order to get to the allen screw you have to remove the roll pin and that, even with all my years of mechanical aptitude is being very difficult to remove, let alone trying to install a new one would be a test.

So now with my right side screw being broken off, the screw is still in the differential and needs to be removed and it seems they have used lots of thread locker so I may have to buy new gears and a new screw or set of screws.

Also my left side bearing is rough and needs replacing so that side needs to come apart too. I will have to buy another bearing or a set of bearings for replacement.

If I am to buy all the replacement parts as sets: diff gears, driveshafts, screws, bearings, this will be quite expensive for what it is! and finding a way to press these tiny pins in and out, this is just too much and shouldn’t be so difficult.

All in all this differential design is the biggest downer and PLEASE will someone get us some upgrades??

Any advice or recommendations on how to press these pins would be much appreciated.

Thanks to everyone who is a part of keeping RC alive!!
Just keep having fun!

Amain now has the black one for $85. It's getting harder to resist getting one.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2025 11:03 pm Amain now has the black one for $85. It's getting harder to resist getting one.

Was trying to put in a 370 motor in mine and, well.... Didn't go good or at all.

I ended up breaking the rear suspension off trying to get the wheel off. It's on real tite, it's stupid. Also couldn't get one of the motor screws out, because the head of it will not accept my Allen wrench, the other did just fine. It's like that one screw has a badly formed socket. 1.5 screws suck.

I pretty much gave up on this thing, don't feel like spending on it now.

Sucks, because I really thought it was cool when driving around as stock. Just wanted to get a bit more speed is all.

Oh well

RCEric wrote: ↑Sun Apr 20, 2025 12:12 pm Was trying to put in a 370 motor in mine and, well.... Didn't go good or at all.

I ended up breaking the rear suspension off trying to get the wheel off. It's on real tite, it's stupid. Also couldn't get one of the motor screws out, because the head of it will not accept my Allen wrench, the other did just fine. It's like that one screw has a badly formed socket. 1.5 screws suck.

I pretty much gave up on this thing, don't feel like spending on it now.

Sucks, because I really thought it was cool when driving around as stock. Just wanted to get a bit more speed is all.

Oh well

You can contact support and they'll likely send you new parts. Honestly wish they just sold them as kits instead of rtr as the people assembling them have qa issues.

RogueIV wrote: ↑Sun Apr 20, 2025 1:15 pm

RCEric wrote: ↑Sun Apr 20, 2025 12:12 pm Was trying to put in a 370 motor in mine and, well.... Didn't go good or at all.

I ended up breaking the rear suspension off trying to get the wheel off. It's on real tite, it's stupid. Also couldn't get one of the motor screws out, because the head of it will not accept my Allen wrench, the other did just fine. It's like that one screw has a badly formed socket. 1.5 screws suck.

I pretty much gave up on this thing, don't feel like spending on it now.

Sucks, because I really thought it was cool when driving around as stock. Just wanted to get a bit more speed is all.

Oh well

You can contact support and they'll likely send you new parts. Honestly wish they just sold them as kits instead of rtr as the people assembling them have qa issues.

I'm going to try and fix it, and get the 370 in plus take out the steering slop. I can get it trimmed pretty good, but you can see the car following the twitchy steering slop. I think when I get the 370 in and fix the slop, this thing will be a blast.

It just sucks I can't get a wrench to work in that one screw head....is really irritating.

I'll figure it out.

If you got one screw out, just try rotating the motor counter clockwise, you should be able to get the screw to loosen a tad bit

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sun Apr 20, 2025 8:44 pm If you got one screw out, just try rotating the motor counter clockwise, you should be able to get the screw to loosen a tad bit

I'll give that a try, thanks.

I ended up taking the entire car apart. I decided to rebuild it from scratch, adding things I believe would be real nice on it, including brushless.

I really like this car, and I messed it up trying to get the motor and wheels off, but the plan is to build it to better than it was.

RCEric wrote: ↑Mon Apr 21, 2025 8:32 am

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sun Apr 20, 2025 8:44 pm If you got one screw out, just try rotating the motor counter clockwise, you should be able to get the screw to loosen a tad bit

I'll give that a try, thanks.

I ended up taking the entire car apart. I decided to rebuild it from scratch, adding things I believe would be real nice on it, including brushless.

I really like this car, and I messed it up trying to get the motor and wheels off, but the plan is to build it to better than it was.

on the bright side they're super cheap right now. I think you can get them for $90. As far as the wheel nuts go, for some reason the factory sometimes puts loctite on them despite they already have a nylock nut. If you get another that's hard to move I suggest heating it up a little bit first. I have several of these cars, they're fun to tinker with as I'm sure you seen my previous posts in this thread.

RogueIV wrote: ↑Mon Apr 21, 2025 9:02 am

RCEric wrote: ↑Mon Apr 21, 2025 8:32 am

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sun Apr 20, 2025 8:44 pm If you got one screw out, just try rotating the motor counter clockwise, you should be able to get the screw to loosen a tad bit

I'll give that a try, thanks.

I ended up taking the entire car apart. I decided to rebuild it from scratch, adding things I believe would be real nice on it, including brushless.

I really like this car, and I messed it up trying to get the motor and wheels off, but the plan is to build it to better than it was.

on the bright side they're super cheap right now. I think you can get them for $90. As far as the wheel nuts go, for some reason the factory sometimes puts loctite on them despite they already have a nylock nut. If you get another that's hard to move I suggest heating it up a little bit first. I have several of these cars, they're fun to tinker with as I'm sure you seen my previous posts in this thread.

The nut comes off fine, the wheel is just stuck onto the axle. What I did is, use my thumbs against the axle(with a bandaid on my finger, then used my fingers begin and the wheel rim, pushing against the axle. I put some might into it and it popped off. Definitely going to drill out the hole a tiny bit.

This is my first smaller scale car rather than 1/10th. Much harder to work on and the one motor screw still won't come out. The hex in it is too small for the wrench it's suppose to accept. I have the entire car tore down and now I'm going to use a Dremel and carefully grind the screw head off.

I already ordered a brushless system, carbon towers and currently looking for some metal cvd.... I dunno...the plastic ones are so sloppy. I also have to tighten up the bell crank system somehow.

When they originally came out for 169.00 none of this stuff should be like it is. Ive driven Walmart toys with less slop. So the current price of 76 bucks is more like the price should always have been.

Don't get me wrong I like this little car a lot, but never realized how much of an epic pain it would of been to swap motors. That's all I was going to do, but now that I have the whole car tore down, I'm going to add some cool stuff to it . Will be a top runner and real fun screamer after it's done.

Still hoping for a 1/10th version tho.

Sadly No direct fit cvds exist currently for the mini jrx2 unless something new has come out in the past couple months i hadn't been looking.