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Looking good ra272
The one way clutch needs to be looked in to, I did a little searching but metric sizes seem to be more popular
That would need new shaft and pulley.

Yeah, its too bad that 3/16 isnt a common one way inner diameter, because the shafts are already hardened and would likely be perfect

ra272 wrote: Do you think it is possible to make tigher 3d parts for the steering?

Thats all up to Brian and he is pretty busy lately

XX4 style clicker for the front pulley maybe?

ra272 wrote:Do you think it could be harmful for the belt or The pulley ?
I may just reduce the braking power.
Do you think it is possible to make tigher 3d parts for the steering?

Sorry to hear your steering is sloppy. Unfortunately that is due to variation in Shape ways printing the parts. I can tell you that all the steering sets I have had them print have fit the bearings nice and tight.
If it becomes a consistent problem I can tweak the part model so the bearing hole is a little undersized, and then they may have to be reamed a little to get the bearings in.
Which steering set (what input) are you running?

mk-Zero wrote:

ra272 wrote:Do you think it could be harmful for the belt or The pulley ?
I may just reduce the braking power.
Do you think it is possible to make tigher 3d parts for the steering?

Sorry to hear your steering is sloppy. Unfortunately that is due to variation in Shape ways printing the parts. I can tell you that all the steering sets I have had them print have fit the bearings nice and tight.
If it becomes a consistent problem I can tweak the part model so the bearing hole is a little undersized, and then they may have to be reamed a little to get the bearings in.
Which steering set (what input) are you running?

Don't be sorry, your parts are fantastic. I love the integration of the front gear case.
I have found an easy fix: a thin coat of cyanoacrylate glue inside the part. It sticks and blend very well on the porous 3d nylon.



The other steering part required two thin coats. The inside is now shinny and the bearings have now a very snug fit.



I also used a longer ball stud, for better rigidity.



Last thing I made today is to install RPM rod ends. The slop is almost gone, I even put the ball bearings back.

Nice work. I should do that to my car at some point. My cranks have enough play that it could bind in places.

Nice fix!

Thanks, I made a little carbon stiffener for the chassis to keep the belt in tension during hard braking. It's interlocking in a notch that I cut in the front nose tube, and at the rear its bolted between the chassis and the bulkhead.

Nice work!

Hi,
Thank you Brian and Jeff pulleys and tower received.

I put it all together and the belt seems way to tight, I used a 570 I got on ebay https://www.ebay.es/itm/201296136538

It seems like it should work, as I've seen a bunch of people use 570 instead of 573.

It is so tight it wont even roll across the floor

I ordered the correct belt but in the mean time...

I also tried the LWB belt from the same supplier but the belt does not seat properly in the pulley, due to it bieng the correct length 597mm for this config and not bieng so tight. I am beginning to suspect that the belt has longer teeth since the pitch seems correct.

Strange, the belt should be a standardized size. I have only used the specific ones listed so I can't speak for other vendors but there is no reason they should be incompatible

I have done some digging and pulled up the data sheet of the dunlop belts that I have and compared them to the ametric data sheets.

Voila...

The dunlop belts have RPP tooth profile...
I'm curious of how these belts if used with the compatible pulleys would compare.

EDIT: The belts are HTD also... They should work...

Outstanding work. The whole project is just awesome.

Can someone clarify the issue with the need for a 6565 trans case when using a rere worlds kit as the donor car?