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Very nice radio.

Those Japanese sites seem to have tons of obscure stuff coming out of them lately.

I got a couple of HW 1060s. One because the MF-01's Tamiya ESC failed already (shock face). I am not sure who killed who, but the steering servo was dead and the receiver was getting no power. My guess is that the servo failed first and put too much load on the notoriously weak BEC in the Tamiya ESC, which cut power to the Rx. The other 1060 is a spare for if/when my crawler ESC dies.

I got setup wheels for my TC. I don't race, so I don't need them, but I have this geeky idea that it will be fun to do alignments with a caliper or a ruler vs just using an actual toe gauge. This is the RC version of doing the alignment on my Miata with strings like budget racers used to do trackside.

I also got a spare Futaba Rx, which, when combined with my spare Pro transmission and spare Factory Works goodies, is forming the basis for buying a spare Cougar.

I got something else, too, but apparently it wasn't worth remembering

The first batch of DS parts arrived today. Ordered on Monday, delivered on Thursday. Not too shabby.
Anyway, AE didn't yet have the DS steering bellcrank set available for purchase so I'm going old school with my build.
Those are genuine AE Stealth outdrives - never thought I'd seem them again.
I like the special anniversary tags - think I'll keep those.

I read on Facebook that the new outdrives and stealth case are not necessarily compatible with the old stuff I swear the people at AE just suck at remembering how things were done. Anyway the new stealth case is narrower between the bearings by enough that with an old diff you can't close the case. That means you will probably need shims for those outdrives if using an old case. Just a heads up.

That will be good to know as I dive into this stuff that has shown up the past few days. Want to dive in, but must wait until pull is done on Saturday.

Edit: And also WTF is up with the stealth color??

morrisey0 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 29, 2024 3:58 pm And also WTF is up with the stealth color??

I don't have one as of yet but overall through the originals over the years the color looks alot more like they did bitd. The white was never really white...more of an ivory or bone color.

K

klavy69 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 29, 2024 4:03 pm I don't have one as of yet but overall through the originals over the years the color looks alot more like they did bitd. The white was never really white...more of an ivory or bone color.

K

This is a bit different than the typical off-white nylon of AE, or really any manufacturer. This has a greenish-grey hue to it. Or like it was dipped into black dye for 10 seconds. Its pretty bad, and if stuck on a white nylon car, would stick out like a sore thumb. It is pretty hideous TBH. I think I would only use this if dyed black, or on a true runner where appearance meant nothing.

I think it might be the same weird color they do the newer caster blocks in. So weird that they feel the need to change colors on some things.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Thu Aug 29, 2024 3:22 pm I read on Facebook that the outdrives and stealth case are not necessarily compatible with the old stuff I swear the people at AE just suck at remembering how things were done. Anyway the new stealth case is narrower between the bearings by enough that with an old diff you can't close the case. That means you will probably need shims for those outdrives if using an old case. Just a heads up.

Well, that's annoying. Good news is that I'm well stocked on 6565 cases that were made a couple years ago. I have used a couple of them with early diffs and everything fits.
Thanks for the info Jeff.

I have a theory..
Back in '80's, AE's molders practiced good QC and maintained their equipment such that nylon parts could be made without a color spec - they were truly 'natural' - and the final color was consistent.
Today, TT (AE) sources from molders who don't maintain their equipment as well. Residual materials from previous batches can remain in the hopper and presses which contaminate new runs; remember the mint green ball cups from a decade ago? So, now they must specify a color to avoid waste from rejection due to color variation. AE picked a color that was as close as possible to natural - putty. Adding a color to the part specification is less costly than buying parts from a molder that practices good QC.

Just a theory but I have some experience dealing with over seas molders and some of them are pretty lousy.

Can't ever pass up a good deal on a Le Mans.

Finally found a body I wanted for my JRX2 shelfer

Large Corally pit/work mat, car stand, some nylon+ locking nuts, MIP ball end hex (2.5mm) for motor screws + 3.25mm turnbuckle wrench, diff balls....and more tires/wheels.

cas22 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 28, 2024 10:00 pm I have to get off nightshifts, those japanese auction sites are too tempting, and they seem to finish at 3am.
Couldnt resist another Futaba 3PD PCM 1024 set, this one still with box and instructions, the NIcd etc is well past its best, but barely a scratch on it.

I really want to get my hands on a good one of these, I have my original one but it's beaten and battered. Great catch.

Something for the DS so I can run standard 1/10 pan car wheels and more RPM ballcups.