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dont run it, its a peice of crap, cool "idea" but the material sucks, ive seen ones beat up and destroyed after 1-2 runs

I got some of my parts today, but still waiting on the king pins to get forwarded to my new address
The steering kit is aluminum and looks like it is pretty nice quality.
The upper deck is nice quality as well.

Here is a bunch on pics of the parts, and some close ups. Not sure how I am going to install the steering kit, I know it will work, but I will have to source a servo saver I think, and make a draglink of some sort, any ideas? I think I may swap the bearing out for rubber sealed ones too.

Heres the pics:

the combo on your pinion was never meant as a slipper: it's only supposed to save your gears if they get overloaded. I heard other testimonies on its weakness, so , right, don't use it. Better get yourself a fresh pinion.
Thanks for the detailed pics of the rhino parts!

No prob.

Where can I find out more info about rhino parts? And for that matter other era hop-up parts? Should I get a vintage rc car action or something?

Ok, I have the diff cleaned, I used some AE stealth diff grease inside there (clear stuff), I didn't fill it, but put about lil more then half full, is this good? I will run the rest of the tranny dry.

I know there are bearing that go on there before those cups, I am waiting for the bearings, and am trying to keep the stuff together for now.

type ultima in the search field of this forum and you'll find hop ups of all kinds

Thanks.


Anyone know about RC screwz? They have a screw kit for the ultima, I need to replace most all the screws from the chassis because they were all worn down from pavement pounding.
http://www.rcscrewz.com/product_info.php/m/kyosho/p/kyo073-kyosho-ultima-series-vintage-stainless-steel-screw-kit/manufacturers_id/16/products_id/1449

there werent a terribly large amount of hopups compared to a car like the rc10..

kyosho made gold shocks, hardened/turbo chassis, ball diff (w0109 i think?), fiberglass shock towers and chassis plate, a 32/48p spur gear, those slipper pinions, adjustable turnbuckles, and rear motor guard.

robinson made external and internal gears, possibly a ball diff, in 48p metric gearing, reports are they arent great quality.

thorp made gearing also same as above

a&L made fiberglass shock towers and A&L lethal weapon belt tranny (i run one for a variety of gearing available)

JG made shock towers and chassis plate

trinity made shock towers also and chassis's later on for other ultimas, possibly wheels also.

Andy's Made Front arms and truck conversion mounts etc

Team CRP made bumpers and truck mounts also

Hot trick made a whole conversion kit along with parts etc. Shock towers, chassis, arms.

Proline made a butterfly body, along with parma who made some that would fit.

Duratrax made some parts too, maybe chasssis and shock towers?

Tecnacraft, T&A, TMS, Proline, Imex, Trinity, all made wheels for the ultima, along with other manufacturers.

then there were some japanese companies that made random stuff, like lightened wheel hubs, turnbuckles, things like that, nothing comes to mind but ive seen that stuff on ebay randomly.

there are probably many companies im forgetting but thats what comes to mind at the moment.

The Hopups i would recommend for a conversion/resto-mod car.
-Fiberglass/Carbon Fiber Shock towers
-Gold Kyosho Shocks or Modern Equivalents
-Fiberglass Chasssis Plate (or pargu alum plate, or teambluegroove carbon fiber)
-Modern Wheels (with mods)
-Transmission hopups are tough... tough to choose and tough to find.
With the A&L tranny i run it has a slipper and doesnt need anything.
To run a Stock Tranny, i would at least recommened the kyosho ball diff, they are on ebay for around $40 typically. I would get away from 32p gears also. The robinson would work, but are hard to find and always end very expensive. The UM-1 Gear set is still available from kyosho i believe, so it might be a cheap option. Keep in mind that they ARE NOT 32 Pitch rather 32pitch METRIC, robinson sells appropriate gears in metric.

Thanks for all that info.

I want to go all out on it, but the buget won't allow that right now, I have already spent a good amount on it. But I can always add the upgrades later as I find them. I think the only other upgrades I am going to do to it now is probably JG shock towers, of course adjustible turnbuckles, RB5 rear cvds, modern wheels/tires, and of course replace the broken stuff, we will see what happens in the next few weeks lol. It is really nice to know what upgrades are outthere and what was available for the era.

you got a good base there already. shocks are key also for replacement, and they made carbon fiber shock towers repros. but you car should be awesome when its done. ball diff might help there too but wait for one to come along cheap.

So do you think I should bother rebuilding the shocks or get the gold ones? or just try to use RB5 ones? And for towers should I get JG or factory ones? Should I keep the JG theme so to speak.

I looked at the rc10s and man some of those are soo cool, like the RPM team build that was done, really cool. Maybe I will have to venture to rc10's after this one is done, I am partial to AE.

i have these currently, and they work well

http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Oil-Damper-Shocks-Set-4-Lazer-ZX-5-ZX5-3Racing_W0QQitemZ120488813547QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c0db163eb

the sizes are "right" for the gold shocks, but you need different towers.

i like carbon fiber to be honest, but thats just personal preference. its lighter but i dont think its as strong as fiberglass, strengths are close. i think fiberglass can be packed tighter into a sheet? i dont know.

the fiberglass parts (towers and plate) are available but pricey.



Building a RC10 you wont have any problems finding spare parts around here, or on ebay. i would probably buy a good condition chassis/donor car, and go from there. just wait for one in the $50 price range.

ace028 wrote:Thanks.


Anyone know about RC screwz? They have a screw kit for the ultima, I need to replace most all the screws from the chassis because they were all worn down from pavement pounding.
http://www.rcscrewz.com/product_info.php/m/kyosho/p/kyo073-kyosho-ultima-series-vintage-stainless-steel-screw-kit/manufacturers_id/16/products_id/1449

i got a set for my Ultima and for the RC10 but the Ultima kit was missing several screws . i was told they re shipped another set so i will let you know when i get it.
overall i like the set of screws.

I would not run your differential with the clear associated diff lube. It is meant for use in ball differentials, and contains silica. This is a very abrasive material, and I would imagine could wear out your diff gears rather quickly (although I have never tried this). The black associated molybdenum lube would be a much better choice. The silica acts as a binding agent (e.g. reducing slip) so the ball diffs can be run looser without slipping nder acceleration. -Jeff

tamiya makes that grease for there gear diffs, like the hotshot. i believe its the same as AE black grease or at least looks the same