RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hello again.

I don't know the IR of the 6 gear tranny cause I never had one and probably never will, but 26/81 on a 17.5 with no timing advance is way undergeared no matter how I look at it. Not only are you being slow, but I quite don't like the idea of the speedo computing with an insufficient load. IMHO by being undergeared by that much, you are not necessarily on the safe side for your equipment. I also have found my motor temps to actually decrease when going from undergeared to something a bit more on the spot.

This added to your lack of front weight definitely indicates that the smallest spur gear you could find will be the best. That is my interpretation of course. Now give us some videos !

BTW I hate those roll pins...

maxime

Those are stock rear arms, I believe the hubs were shaved slightly to fit them (Reg, help?). They are from XXXCR 2wd buggy.

The 6 gear has an IR of 1.85, so 81/26*1.85 = 5.75 FDR (that would be 66/30 on a B4, so I would say pretty darn close to start). I wont decide on final gearing until I get some laps on the track, not my first rodeo....

I do plan on adding weight to the front end, just havent gotten that far. Too many irons in the fire

Video once it is completed and I hit the dirt...

JK Racing wrote:Those are stock rear arms, I believe the hubs were shaved slightly to fit them (Reg, help?). They are from XXXCR 2wd buggy.

The 6 gear has an IR of 1.85, so 81/26*1.85 = 5.75 FDR (that would be 66/30 on a B4, so I would say pretty darn close to start). I wont decide on final gearing until I get some laps on the track, not my first rodeo....

I do plan on adding weight to the front end, just havent gotten that far. Too many irons in the fire

Video once it is completed and I hit the dirt...

Awesome thanks for the info! Def gonna keep tabs on this one while i wait for my own gold pan to turn up

XXX-Cr hubs, milled on both hinge pin facing sides, and internally milled for the B4 CVD offset and also outer-milled for the same.

Charlie don't surf wrote:XXX-Cr hubs, milled on both hinge pin facing sides, and internally milled for the B4 CVD offset and also outer-milled for the same.

Nice! One question though i have seen mention of the B44 CVDs being used for this conversion as well. Do the XXX CR hubs require the milling for them?

Yes, the internal spacing of the hub needs to be changed to make the CVD fit w/o binding in the drive cup at the transmission. And the hub is too wide to fit in the arm.

I have not tried it personally yet, but all things considered, you could also probably use Racers Edge aluminum rear hubs, as well. They are made for the B4/B44, and feature a vertical ball stud and come in various rear toe in settings. They would have to only be drilled and reamed out for RC10 .125" hinge pins.

At $25 a set (and relatively bomb-proof) you'd have to weight how much time in machining Losi hubs to fit or having someone else take the time to do it is worth to you.

that is the route jharris uses in his builds.

Does Jeff machine out the insides of his, too? I kinda assumed they were for something else, for some reason. Not sure why they would need to be hogged out like that.

I'm confused.

Eau Rouge wrote:I have not tried it personally yet, but all things considered, you could also probably use Racers Edge aluminum rear hubs, as well.

This is what I ordered for my latest build. I should know how well they work soon. Well, soon for me being sometime before Christmas, maybe...

i found some awesome rear hubs that should take care of the "milling" issue associated with the b4 hubs on the standard rc10 arms with b44 cvd's. a pair will be here shortly to confirm my instincts.

scr8p wrote:i found some awesome rear hubs that should take care of the "milling" issue associated with the b4 hubs on the standard rc10 arms with b44 cvd's. a pair will be here shortly to confirm my instincts.

Yeah, that's the thing though... I didn't mill anything on stock B4/B44 hubs and OEM RC10 arms and have no issues at all with B44 CVDs.

I think the milling/hogging out is to allow the axles to push through farther (and use B4 cvds) to bring back some of the track width. I can give a rough measurement tonight when I get home, but it *appears* as wide as my b4 used to be. While using the stock arms...

Eau Rouge wrote:Does Jeff machine out the insides of his, too? I kinda assumed they were for something else, for some reason. Not sure why they would need to be hogged out like that.

I'm confused.

I don't know what axle stubs you used, or ( and this may sound dumb ) that you checked for up travel binding in the drive cups, but this is the same treatment that Jeff taught me to do

Yup, no binding anywhere in the travel. Stock B44 CVDs and B4/B44 hubs. I shimmed from the outside of the axle to keep the CVD as long as possible in the hub, but it's not that much anyway.

I don't see binding anywhere in the setup.