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why don't you take off the blue spacer, put a thin shim behind the pin, then stack up shims on the inside of the hub to take up the slop. then you could use a cw wheel spacer on the outside to bring the wheelbase back.

scr8p wrote:why don't you take off the blue spacer, put a thin shim behind the pin, then stack up shims on the inside of the hub to take up the slop. then you could use a cw wheel spacer on the outside to bring the wheelbase back.

that mite be the way to go
part #? cw spacer
also r u getting any rub with them on the hub?
also im running the 12mm hex and dont know if it will work with that adapter
mite make the rear way to wide

called mip and its a no go on a longer bone other the the t4
which is way to long
farmer

Tell mip to make you a pair. And to rerelease the 4-10 conversions. And the ones for the tamiya buggies too. And pretty much everything else cool that they used to make. We have buyers.

But seriously, shims are a great next step. You may want to try adding a shim with the crush sleeves too if they are still binding up.

these are the CW wheel spacers. they should work fine with any 12mm hex you have. using them is no different than the pin and axle spacer.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTA0&P=7

another (and cheaper) option, since you're using 12mm hexes, you could use the hpi rear adapters (for losi) which has an approximate 1/8" spacer built in (upper left on each tree).

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN057&P=7

scr8p wrote:these are the CW wheel spacers. they should work fine with any 12mm hex you have. using them is no different than the pin and axle spacer.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTA0&P=7

another (and cheaper) option, since you're using 12mm hexes, you could use the hpi rear adapters (for losi) which has an approximate 1/8" spacer built in (upper left on each tree).

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN057&P=7

thx scr8p
is there a way that i can get a pic of what the back side of the CW adapter looks like and also
what it looks like going on your drive pin how many washers you running behind it
thx farmer

The back side looks exactly like a inside rim face with one set of crosspin slots and a flush back. I think this has been covered, but to reiterate the CW wheel spacer is used only to move the rear wheel out enough to get good engagement on the lock nut- it has nothing to do with spacing of the cvd/cva in or out of the cup- like Jason mentioned, you can still use whatever hex spacer after that to make the correct offset-

well it is done other than tires getting glued
its been a long time coming
i hope you all like it!
these pics are with out stickers
the next set will be race dressed
enjoy farmer

Here it is Race Dressed
hope this meets
the high standards of you fellow members
enjoy
farmer

She's sexy!

how did you set up the bypass 1 shocks? let me know after you hit the track

get a black GT front bumper on there, save that nose.

That it AWESOME! I love the color combo!

You hit this one wayyyyy out the ballpark!!!!!! WHERED IT GOOOOOOOO!!!!!! ITS BIOTCHN MAN AND A FARMER DID IT??? LMAO DON

Great looking car...even if it is in the Met's colors.

I really really like this, and orange was what I was thinking for a build of mine which has been stalled. Great execution!

My only nitpick/personal preference is I don't care for when the body doesn't cover the trans and motor. Looks naked back there.

I like the front body/mount system you have there, nice and trick. What did you do for the rear mount, it's tough to see.