RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

THE H.P FREAK wrote:HI!... I just finished building my RC10 Classic and i had only one issue. That was that both body mount posts were 1/2 inch too short. I just used two longer vintage RC10 ones i had here. Besides that mine went together perfectly. Everything fit snug , no parts missing, all the holes were countersunk and the chassis was straight. Very happy with mine.

Curious what internal shock spacers you used for the shocks? The directions called for two thin black spacers and don't provide adequate stoppage.

SFC K wrote:

THE H.P FREAK wrote:HI!... I just finished building my RC10 Classic and i had only one issue. That was that both body mount posts were 1/2 inch too short. I just used two longer vintage RC10 ones i had here. Besides that mine went together perfectly. Everything fit snug , no parts missing, all the holes were countersunk and the chassis was straight. Very happy with mine.

Curious what internal shock spacers you used for the shocks? The directions called for two thin black spacers and don't provide adequate stoppage.

HI!... Thats all i used. Seems to work fine. But mine is a shelf queen, so no worries.

THE H.P FREAK wrote:

SFC K wrote:

THE H.P FREAK wrote:HI!... I just finished building my RC10 Classic and i had only one issue. That was that both body mount posts were 1/2 inch too short. I just used two longer vintage RC10 ones i had here. Besides that mine went together perfectly. Everything fit snug , no parts missing, all the holes were countersunk and the chassis was straight. Very happy with mine.

Curious what internal shock spacers you used for the shocks? The directions called for two thin black spacers and don't provide adequate stoppage.

HI!... Thats all i used. Seems to work fine. But mine is a shelf queen, so no worries.

Sounds good, just wanted to make sure you were aware....I too have not had much issues with mine. I'm just excited to be able to build a new kit out of the box instead of the usual second, third hand owner rigs...

SFC K wrote:

THE H.P FREAK wrote:HI!... I just finished building my RC10 Classic and i had only one issue. That was that both body mount posts were 1/2 inch too short. I just used two longer vintage RC10 ones i had here. Besides that mine went together perfectly. Everything fit snug , no parts missing, all the holes were countersunk and the chassis was straight. Very happy with mine.

Curious what internal shock spacers you used for the shocks? The directions called for two thin black spacers and don't provide adequate stoppage.

This is just a tip absent in the instructions. Drag out a Cadillac manual and you will see a 1/8 x 5/8 (L) section of Silicone fuel tubing used on the shaft of the rear shock under the piston. (there is a photo) This is a nice internal downstop. I figured this out on Saturday. Interestingly enough the Edinger manual had no mention of this. I cant recall what we did in 84.

I had no real issues with mine except for little exclusions like this in the instructions. No Worries!

While I have 4 others on the bench ready to go together that I am completing the gathering process for, the only 2 RC10 kits I have built were the original in 84 and this re release.

The only modification I made to my re re was to add the 2nd lower set of shock holes in the front shock tower.

I am happy with mine and am 50% through the assembly on a 2nd one with no issues.

In 84 the rear arms had a built in down travel stop... the limiters probably came later when this was probably found to be a bad idea.

Chris

For all you dissappointed rc10 re-re owners...www.ebay.com.

OR

I'll can take them off your hands for half of what you paid for them now with no ebay fees

You can use the proceeds to go buy a durango and see what kinds of issues you can have with a one of those

Todd

klavy69 wrote:For all you dissappointed rc10 re-re owners...www.ebay.com.

OR

I'll can take them off your hands for half of what you paid for them now with no ebay fees

You can use the proceeds to go buy a durango and see what kinds of issues you can have with a one of those

Todd

Aww, that was my plan.

CJ

HI!... Maybe are the unhappy RC10 Classic buyers should trAde them in on a Redcat. Lol.

Or, if you don't like the anodizing, have it redone - perhaps in a nice shade of "sour grapes" purple?

Hey quit giving them ideas! Sour grapes anno was my next color

Y'ernat Al wrote:I'm looking forward to mine, and will be perfectly fine with a 30 year design requiring the same extra effort to get everything silky that it always had and always will. (...said a nostalgic buff on a nostalgic forum for a nostalgic model race car).

Hey Hoop...

well I give this whole statement a

Alright, now I think you guys are just messing with me.

gomachv wrote:I think this boils down to different expectations and while a lot of us are happy to have it in any form, others want it to have perfect fit and finish. Here's the thing about that...the people that are cool with it didn't design it, redesign it, and don't accept money from Team Associated to push its sales. We are all just enthusiasts. Complaining on a forum about it and dragging it on isn't going to get anywhere. If you have a legitimate issue the concerns should be taken up with Team Associated. We can't fix it for you here.

For all those that got their front end built and are giving up....Send it to me and ill finish it for ya. I ain't scared of filing, shimming, shaving, and drilling the occasional servo horn access hole

I agree. Overall, I'm thrilled to have a NIB gold pan in any form that I can assemble/run and consider the need to file/sand/ream a relatively minor issue. I was merely agreeing with those who initially expressed their displeasure with the imperfect fit/finish. I will enjoy the build but I'm sure I'll get a little annoyed if I have to wrestle with the parts to make them fit properly.

terry.sc wrote:

slow_jun wrote:almost forgot this.

It's interesting after all the comments about Chinese quality that most of the problems are to do with the USA made chassis.

That's why everything is made in China.

This thread made me LOL. I am so excited to have the re-re rc10 even with the minor imperfections. In reality, if AE made it perfect, you'd all complain they took away the "soul" of the original kit. We should be happy we even have the opportunity to build a new rc10 kit in 2013 instead of nothing at all. Ah...just fell off my soapbox.

I forgot, I had to make the hole for the idler gear shaft a little bigger on the transmission spine with an xacto blade. *gasp*!