RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

That video is a good representation of speed although the track is a bit more technical now. At that stage I think people were tapping into the 18's with 16 laps, and getting really close to the 17 lap mark. The track looks smooth but it is quite bumpy.

Now there's a chicane right after the first hairpin and a jump right after the second berm leading into the corner. There are also 3 small jumps in the straight section leading into the step up before the table top, and we also use half of the wall ride (the green section)

Who do I contact about the chassis and other cf parts?

We are currently looking into other alternatives at the moment untill Jake gets back on his feet. It is a couple steps backwards but the project is still moving forward.

Thanks

New rear hub NIX63652 for hex wheel conversion. (Hub updated to stronger version 2015-04-27)
B44 CVA bone #9754, SC10 hex adapter (JC2081 or similar).
Can be used on RC10 also.
http://shpws.me/H1BS

A few pictures from Saturdays race.

The car was absolutely amazing on dirt and had the same pace as the fastest modern cars. The track was low to medium grip and the car far exceeded my expectations.

I think most enjoyed watching a semi-vintage car mix it with the fastest guys. The car also received many compliments.

Thanks again Niki.

Hopefully soon we can offer a chassis kit, sorry for the delay but it's still in the works.

Terrific photos of RC10. cool

Wide front arm for RC10/NIX10M buggy nose. Leading thought: Racing.
Designed to be used with #6220 wheel axle and B4 front wheel. Uses standard inner hinge pin #6226 but mounted without C-clips. Screw #9645 holds hinge pin in place. One extra shock mounting point.

http://shpws.me/H78I

Such a good design for the arms Niki! It seems like the front arms always eject the e-clips once they are worn down a bit; these should solve that dilemma.
You've been working tirelessly to bring the vintage community such awesome option parts. Thanks so much!

i think i want to build a truck out of this, keep us posted on when the chassis kits become available.

Thanks harvey.
This is new wide rear arm for RC10 and NIX10M.
Designed to be used with B4 CVA bone #9672, B4.2 hex adapter #9890 and B4/B5 hex wheels. Non-hex B4 wheels obviously can be used also with wheel spacer mounted under axle pin. Sample parts feel really strong and solid.
http://shpws.me/Hnfu

I've read through the thread a couple of times and really admire the work you guys have put in.

It looks like you run the standard 3 gear stealth, how have you overcome the old motor rotation to rear traction issues that reportedly blighted the Tekin chassis or was that just hearsay and not really an issue at all?

Thanks for the kind words,

We are using the standard 3 gear box and haven't noticed any ill handling effects. I'm running a fairly grunty boosted 6.5T combo and it seems fine. On a quite loose track NIX10M was every bit as fast as a new Yokomo YZ-2 driven by a local hot shoe. The car actually exceeded my expectations and was easy to drive, smooth, jumped well and was extremely predictable.

Synergy wrote:I've read through the thread a couple of times and really admire the work you guys have put in.

It looks like you run the standard 3 gear stealth, how have you overcome the old motor rotation to rear traction issues that reportedly blighted the Tekin chassis or was that just hearsay and not really an issue at all?

must not have been as much of an issue as we thought it was, look at the new b5m lite, 3 gear and all.

kaiser wrote:
must not have been as much of an issue as we thought it was, look at the new b5m lite, 3 gear and all.

Good point.

Besides the obvious, why the longer arms on the 10M build? I read about ejecting e-clips... just wondering what was wrong with the original arms?